johnybgood18 Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 Hello to all, I'm a newcomer here. I have always liked building plastic models, I have always liked Macross, but until this day, I've never built a single Macross model, just military vehicules! I started building this nice VF-1D from Hasegawa, depicting the version of the wedding of Max and Millia episodes. The building of it had a few mistakes here and there but nothing that couldn't be repaired! As for the painting, everything went well up until the gloss coat... which turned out to be grainy! No problem, lightly sand it... respraying the base coat... the gloss coat too and all was fine! I even took pictures of it that I wnated to share with you all... not anymore! ...and now the nightmare begins... I've never had any problems with decalling a kit! Up until now! Some of the decals were reacting badly to setting solutions! I even had to take some from another kit. But now... some of the decals are ruined... and I can,t save the kit at all! My dilema is simple! Do I scrap the kit? Do I strip the decals and repaint it as another version? I prefer the later but, and that is where you guys come out of the dark... I need a brand new decal sheet! Any ideas where I can get one? Maybe one of you guys have one lying around I could buy that won't see any use but could really help me out? I basically need all the little "no step" decals and the like. I'm open to suggestion... And I hope to be able to show you some of my work soon... Christian maheu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayson72 Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 You can order entire decal sheets from HLJ.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berttt Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 I need a Hasegawa Low Vis decal sheet for one of my projects, does anyone have the part number? My apologies for hijacking the thread. Berttt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnybgood18 Posted December 7, 2004 Author Share Posted December 7, 2004 Thanks Grayson, I'll give that a try. And Berttt, the only number to be found on the decal sheet is the number of the kit, which is 65769. Hope this help, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewilen Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 For all the "no step" stickers, couldn't you get away with using extras from another 1/72 jet kit? And if you don't have any UN Spacy logos left, don't we have some people on MW who make decal kits in various scales? Don't scrap the kit whatever you do. What decal setting solution did you use--so the rest of us can avoid it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less than Super Ostrich Posted December 7, 2004 Share Posted December 7, 2004 awww c'mon... roof test the mutha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnybgood18 Posted December 7, 2004 Author Share Posted December 7, 2004 I use both Micro Set and Micro Sol. I also use, for place with lots of recessed and raised details (like the yellow circles on the side of the engines), solvaset. This stuff is really strong. I never had any problems with Tamiya, Dragons, Italeiri... Never tried Hasegawa with that. As for the "no step" decals, I don't have any 1:72nd scale aircraft lying around... a lot of 1:35th tanks tho! But that won't help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayson72 Posted December 8, 2004 Share Posted December 8, 2004 The only decals I ever destroyed was when I used Microset and Microsol at the same time. I turned the decal to mush. If you must use them both spread the set on first, put the decal on the model over it, dab it dry. Wait till the whole thing dries and then go back and use the sol on only the recessed areas were you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnybgood18 Posted December 15, 2004 Author Share Posted December 15, 2004 (edited) Hey Grayson, the mushy appearance of the decal is actually what it is supposed to do. That is the effect the Sol has on the decal. You ABSOLUTELY have to let it sit for at least a day and it will come back to it's original shape. DO NOT TOUCH IT while it is in that state or it'll stick to your finger and be ruined! I know, it happened to me a few times! The problems happened when I used the Solvaset... it's even stronger than the Sol! Thanks all... I decided to not scrap or repaint the kit, I got some of the estra decals set and I'll do some of these versions eventually! So, the kit is safe... for now! And I love this forum... so many nice kits and the walktrough... simply amazing! Keep it up! Tchau tchau Edited December 17, 2004 by johnybgood18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less than Super Ostrich Posted December 15, 2004 Share Posted December 15, 2004 yeah... we're pretty awesome, aren't we? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnybgood18 Posted December 18, 2004 Author Share Posted December 18, 2004 Yup... the major disaster turned into something ok! I managed to save it without stripping the paint or simulating an electronic malfunction and have it crash land on a deserted island... But... I'm still not really satisfied with it. Thanks for all your replies and help, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnybgood18 Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 ok, am I the only person that is having problems with the small round, white and black decals??? I decided to paint all the ones that I was missing decals for (cause I scraped them)... turned out "ok" so far. I finally sealed all the decals with a clear coat. She i sready for weathering. I'll probably start that tomorrow. I do not have any pictures to show you guys cause I do not think she is worthy of it... when she's done, you'll get to see and give me your feedbacks, positive or negative! Until then... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 (edited) Hase decals often don't like many decal solutions. Try HOT water for them. They seem to react to water temp more than any solution. (Of course, every decal sheet always varies, even if it's the "same" sheet) Also, mixing Sol and Set (IMHO) is a bad idea. Don't apply one after the other unless the other was put on long enough ago that the area is bone dry. Of course, I always advocate the method of going SLOW and using ONLY Set. Sol is like the "nuclear bomb" for decals. Yeah, it'll get the job done, but the odds of ruining something are much higher as well. Set can take 15 mins to really work, most people only give it like 1 min to affect the decal before deciding to put Sol on. Edited December 19, 2004 by David Hingtgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gundamhead Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Micro Set is the mild stuff. Micro Sol is the stuff for rough spots where you want to melt the decal over the texture. Mixing them is really gonna melt them even fast. I don't think Hasagawa decals over gloss even really need any set or sol. Did you try a few 'plain'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnybgood18 Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 Yeah, I think I've been out of the modelling scene for too long! I totally forgot these basic things! :-( I will try and let the "Set" set (lol)... I tried a few without any solutions, on flat areas where no air bubbles could be trapped. Didn't try them on recessed areas tho. Thanks to all for your help. I will post pics when she's done. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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