fearyaks Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Hi all, it's been ~ 15 years since I last built a model. I bought some cheap Star Wars models to experiment with (learn how to paint and such). Some basic questions for you all - 1. Do you paint the pieces first (while attached) or do you prefer to wait until the model is assembled... or does it depend on the piece (like a cockpit) 2. I presume you paint before you start the chalk-wash procedure 3. Is regular old Testers modelling cement OK? 4. Likewise, what about paint? I presume a lot of you are air-brushers but I want to take it easy for now and brush-paint. Is Testers that crappy (vs Tamiya for example)? I think that's about it. Thanks in advance all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 My opinions: Where possible, glue first, then paint. Paint: I like Testor's Acryl for brushing, their enamels suck for brushing IMHO. I personally don't like Tamiya much for brushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWR MKII Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 testors acryl is good for brush painting, enamels are good for fine detail. tamiya is made primarily for airbrushing. testors orange tube cement is a staple of model building has been for decades. DONT USE THE BLUE TUBE CEMENT. try to make subassemblies as often as possible but paint most small parts on the trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jardann Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Definitely start with the orange tube glue. But before you finish your last "warm up" model get some liquid glue. It comes in a bottle with a brush in the cap, or Testors now even has some in a triangular shaped bottle with a thin needle like applicator. The liguid glue will give you a much cleaner application once you have gotten comfortable with it. I also recommend keeping some super glue on hand. Use the glue sparinglyand have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearyaks Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 Thanks a lot everyone. I'll have to check the paint types I got since it hadn't even occured to me to check acryllics vs enamel. My test model is going to be an AMT Vader Tie Fighter... lots of big pieces and not a lot of assembly. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jardann Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Good luck with that TIE model. The Vader figure is terrible though! Looks more like Yoda than Vader IMO! Remember to post pics so we can all see your efforts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearyaks Posted November 1, 2004 Author Share Posted November 1, 2004 I'll post pics if my camera doesn't break. I hope to get it started this week but I've got to clear out some space in the garage. I was thinking of replacing the Vader figure with a Lego Vader figure.... or even leaving the cockpit empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 I never liked the orange-tube glue much. The liquid glue in the black plastic container (which changes shape every couple of years) is still the best all-purpose modeling cement I've found. Enamel still has the advantage of single-coat coverage when brush-painting in many circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetsujin Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 I never liked the orange-tube glue much. The liquid glue in the black plastic container (which changes shape every couple of years) is still the best all-purpose modeling cement I've found. There are several reasons I recommend against using tube glues. Tube glues contain more fillers, and an adhesive which you don't actually need or want for bonding styrene parts. The best bond you can get is the solvent bond you get with liquid solvent glues. These fuse the parts together by chemically melting them. The fillers and adhesive in tube glue make it harder to get that good solvent bond, and they'll also break down over time. Thicker glues are also messier than liquid glues. New modelers will probably also be more tempted to apply greater quantities of tube glue than they would liquid glues - that could potentially lead to damaged parts as a result of all that solvent. I use the Testor's Model Master liquid glue applicator bottles (those black plastic containers). But avoid the Testor's version, usually in a black bottle with a red label. The glue is pretty much the same, but the applicator bottle has a nasty tendency to clog up. I bought like 10 of those for a model-making class, and most of them have clogged up to the point where I can't clear them out. Some of them clogged up quite quickly, others too a little while. Spend the extra dollar and get the Model Master applicator bottle with the metal tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BinaryFalcon Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 1. Painting depends on the subassembly or part. Usually all the interior detail bits that can't be easily gotten to will be painted, the model will get assembled, and then I'll do an overall paintjob on the rest. 2. Overall color always goes before weathering, unless you're doing undershading with paint. I've found it's also useful to mix media types between base color and detail/weathering with respect to paints. For example, I've done base colors with acrylic (water based) paints and then applied small details with oil based paints. As long as the water based paint has cured properly, you can usually get away with wiping away oil based mistakes with some mineral spirits and not worry about messing up the work you've already done. 3. I think so. Provided it's the liquid based kind. A few years back I switched to a non-toxic, citrus based liquid cement as I found it bonded just as well as the nasty smelling testor's stuff, and it didn't draw complaints from those around me as soon as I opened the bottle (It smells like lemons/oranges). I do keep some "tube type" cement around as well, but it rarely gets used. It does have some uses though so it's nice to keep it on hand. 4. Testors is fine, although I rarely use it these days mostly due to the more limited color palette. The key to brush painting is getting the correct paint consistancy, keeping your strokes going in the same direction, and knowing when to stop. Do it all right and the brush strokes should disappear as the paint dries. It's a bit tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it you can get very good results. Still, if you have large areas to cover, I suggest masking and using a spray paint instead. You'll usually get better results. With proper care and masking, you can do nearly as well with a spray can as you can with an airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearyaks Posted November 5, 2004 Author Share Posted November 5, 2004 Thankyou everyone for your tips. I'm currently breaking in my modelling skills with one of the AMT gold-plated Tie Interceptors. I figured it'd be easier as I wouldn't have to worry about weathering and all that fun stuff. Unfortunately, I did paint the solar panels black and that hasn't turned out great (because of the gold finish) and while masking them, it peeled off some of the existing plating. Regardless, It's going OK and I'll post my first model pics of a real one sometime soon (either the Vader Tie or a plated VF-1S). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewilen Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 Another vote here against the orange tube cement. It's always been a source of endless frustration for me. The last time I did any modelling I used something called Weld-on. It was great, easy to use, but extremely volatile. It all magically disappeared from the (supposedly sealed) bottle went I put it away for a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWR MKII Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 (edited) tube glues can be messy yes. they shouldnt be used for entire kits as well but they are good for tacking parts toether until you can hit them with liquid cement. tube glue is also good for test fitting sub assemblies before final applcation of liquid cement. if you want a good cheap source of liquid cement go to a home depot or DIY store and get a can of oateys PVC pipe cleaner. it has MEK (methyl ethyl keytone ) which is the active ingredient in all liquid cements. its about 2.50 for a large can which will last you for a long while. the can is yellow and youll need to sacfifice a brush to use it but its great stuff. Edited November 11, 2004 by HWR MKII Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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