Penguin

Found it on Amazon Japan! Amazon.co.jp link: http://www.amazon.co.jp/exec/obidos/tg/det...2410393-2536755

*snip the picture* check out http://www.robotechmuseum.com/modelsindex.html for the other schemes 375614[/snapback] Don't forget to put the battroid legs on backwards too, to match the picture. I've always wondered... did the instructions have it that way, or did whoever build the kit for the photo goof up?

I always thought of the GBP-1 as a space-optmized enhancement... where the extra mass of the armour wouldn't hamper battroid movement as it would under gravity. So, for me, a green GBP-1 doesn't thrill...

Amen... well except about the Star Wars. I just can't stay mad at it... I get a kick out of how many people equate "sleek" with "new" or "futuristic", when one's got nothing to do with another. IMHO, the "sleekest" fighter ever was the F-104, but I sure wouldn't want to take on an F-15 in one.

Those were drone versions of the VF-11 that the X-9 smacked down in episode 3, not the original Ghost.

Professional engineer, specializing in automation software for power utilities and industrial applications.

To be fair, Robotech was never advertised or intended as a faithful translation of the source material. So, other companies hacking up a series while still promoting it under the same name isn't quite the same thing. At the same time, it's not accurate to refer to Robotech as an "internationally-friendly version" of Macross, since it's a different story, and therefore not really any "version" of Macross at all.

Mine just arrived today... a sweet little pre-Christmas gift for myself! The fine detail on the panel lining just blows me away! Clean, sharp casting all around. My only criticism would be that some of the pieces are really super-thin, especially the strakes (or fins, or whatever you want to call them) on the rear underside of the engine nacelles. I'm quite concerned about the fragility of them, since they are so exposed. If anyone can offer some tips about the best way to build up some thin resin pieces, please do. All in all, though, really superb work. If this is the quality we can expect from future projects, then <cheesy quote> we will watch your career with great interest </cheesy quote>.

Amen to that.

Well, the microperms are fine for panel lining if you don't like washes, but they don't help paint the entire model, which is what RoboTech is referring to. RoboTech, as far as cleaning is concerned, I've always just dabbed a little Mr. Hobby lacquer thinner on a paper towel and wiped the marker nib on that if too much stuff gets caked on the end. Gundam Markers have the same base as the Mr Hobby Gundam lacquers, so the thinner works fine. MechTech's alternatives for petroleum solvents should also work fine, but I've never tried them. The thinner also removes the paint markers if you need to do something over. As far as drying out, I have noticed that the fine markers don't last a long time. I don't think there's a lot of paint in them. I've had fine and full-tipped markers that have been around, cap-on, for years that are still fine after a little shaking. However, after using a fine-tip for a month or so steady, it usually runs out. As long as you keep the caps on, I wouldn't worry about the full-size tip markers drying out. On a side note, I wouldn't recommend using Gundam markers for a lot of painting. The paint colour can be inconsistent unless you really shake them up before using them, and they don't fit into cracks and detailed areas well unless you push in the tip to get a "blob" of paint to run out into the nooks and crannies, followed by a paper towel or shammy to soak up the excess paint. I did a couple of Gundam models completely with the markers, and subsequently swore off them. I use them for small details - dots on control panels, little details on the inner structure of a Master Grade model, and I love the chrome silver marker for landing gear on my Hasegawa VFs. If you want to use the markers for panel lining as well, I suggest using the soft-tip Gundam markers instead of the fine line ones. With a gloss or semi-gloss base underneath (most of the markers are semi-gloss), you run over the panel lines with the soft tip, then wipe off the excess with a towel right away. It leaves a nice thin bit of paint in the panel line, cleaner and thinner than any fine tip marker. I use them for panel lines on my Hasegawa VFs as well, 'cause I suck at using washes for really fine details. Deeper details will need a wash - no marker will do.

Thanks!

The shorter legs, definitely.

Howdy, gang. I was going through my EB #51 and translating the katakana name for the gerwalk-mode plane (which the ol' RPG named the AGA-1JF or somethin'). The name is: ガウオークロイド which I translate as "Gerwalk Rider". Can anyone validate or reject my humble assertion? Thanks

That sounds like a neat idea. I might have to try it.

The Hasegawa stands are mostly steady and well-built. The side supports slide into one of three different positions on the crossbeam to accomodate different models, so they can get loose if you move them around lot when swapping out models (like I've done). They are molded in one colour, so a paint job spices them up a bit and helps complement the model better. Since they slide under the wings for most of the VF kits (only the YF-21/VF-22 kits had them in the engines instead), they do block the view of the side of the engines a little, which is why painting helps them look more like they belong together.

I did a vinyl kit of Misato from Evangelion once, and I filled the legs with fine ballast (i.e. gravel) designed for model train dioramas, then plugged the top with a bit of clay. Worked like a charm. Of course, the stuff has settled a bit since then so she sounds a bit like maracas if you shake her. One thing no one has mentioned yet: NO ENAMEL PAINTS (e.g. regular Testors stuff). I don't know the exact chemical reason for it, but enamels never dry completely on vinyls or other soft plastics. I have a Secret Wars Iron Man figure that I tried to paint with enamels 15 years ago, and the silver still comes off on my hands if I touch it today. ... come to think of it, why do I keep that old thing around, anyway? A couple other things: - Do make sure you give the kit some kind of support. Vinyl kits hardly ever stand up by themselves. - Do not display the kit where it will get direct sun during the day. It will soften and might deform, depending on the weight of the kit (e.g. extended arms may sag, then cool in the "drooped" position). - Definitely use a crazy glue, and not a glue advertized as especially for vinyl. I've tried a couple of those, and they don't seem to have any strength to them.

Precisely. I use regular old Elmer's white glue for rigging (which is usually just coarse black thread) and for canopies on resin kits. I wouldn't recommend it for anything else on a model kit.

Personally, I wouldn't use putty for this. The method I've used (same as WM mentioned) is to use rolled-up balls of clay (just simple, non-greasy white clay - a block of it is $4 at Chinook Hobby) to support the bay doors when you want them in a gear-up position. If you want, you could fill the entire wheel-well with it, which I've done occasionally for small wells (like the nosewheel well on my VF-4). I don't have any horror stories myself, but I do remember my brother giving me a call one day, lamenting how the mast on his model of the Titanic had become all spongy and melted when he was attaching the rigging. Seems he used an abundance of good ol' Testors glue in the orange tube rather than white glue, which of course destroyed the mast. Naturally, being a good brother, I spent half an hour the next weekend alternately mocking him and helping him trim and shape a new mast from leftover sprue pieces.

That was my understanding, as far as resin kits go (they do sell other stuff, too). Although, all the models I've ordered came in little gray boxes with the parts, and instructions inside. Maybe the bag o' SDF-1 parts was too big for their standard-issue box.

Just adding to the great seller debate. I've used HLJ for years now (EMS shipping, always), and I've had zero problems. No damaged packages, ever, no lost orders, always prompt responses to my queries (< 2 days in every case). I've ordered replacement pieces for model kits (after I destroyed them, not HLJ) and in every case received the part in less than a month (which is pretty good considering they have to order it from the manufacturer). The only delay I've ever had was in getting a hand for my first 1/48 VF-1A (which was missing in the box), and that took 6 weeks. Just to spread the luv around, Kevin at the Valkyrie Exchange has always been top-notch and 100% reliable too. I've only ordered from Twin Moons a couple of times, but zero problems there either. Come to think of it, I've only had two bad online shopping incidents in, like 10 years (both of them eBay seller issues). And I do a lot of online shopping. Maybe I've just got good e-buyer karma.

She's lookin' hot, Ryuji. Outstanding work!

And here I was hoping for a negative review so I could have an excuse not to acquire it. *sigh* Thanks for the feedback guys. It's appreciated.

My memory may be foggy, but I thought the original Club-M VF-11 came with options for both the FAST packs and the solid fuel boosters (a la Macross Plus). The instructions in the model section seem to bear this out.

I look at Macross and see toys worth collecting, While my wallet gently weeps... Everyone, sing along...

Hey, y'all. I'm looking for some opinions as to whether this kit is worth acquiring, quality-of-sculpt-wise. Specifically, is it worth $67.98 US? Thanks.