Jasonc

It's looking good. 

The canopy came out exactly as 8 wanted it. I can't be happier with the final result.

Apparently it's quite clear. It really doesn't need any sanding or buffing.

I may be interested in that 11C.

If I had the money, I'd want that 1/1 Sheryl. That said, the $18K price tage (which I think is for both) is astronomical. I am expecting a large sum of money soon, so maybe. It depends on when that comes though. Plus the shipping, Yeah, not cheap.

6 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

That's looking promising Jasonc, I am also curious to see how it will look like once casted. Here is how my Shapeways canopy looks like, and I am receiving soon a 3D printed copy in clear resin that will be much easier to work with.

@Raptor One I wasn’t a fan of the VF-9’s Gerwalk but now that I have transformed it a few times, I surprisedly dig the gerwalk look. -except for the official awkward heel position, I prefer to the the heel in the standard feet position-

That actually looks quite good. That material is nice and sturdy, and if I could get it completely clear, I'd just use it. I did notice that even after using a liquid polish, the material still had what looks like tiny ripples underneath the polished surface. it's probably just a part of the printed resin's characteristics, so I didn't want to go all out trying to fix that if it cannot be. I put the clear gloss coat over it last night, and it's shinier, so today after work, I'll be making the first part of mold. I need to work on a way to make it so that there are no seem lines, but can easily come out and I think I have a way to get a great recast. I'll show you once it's done, as the process will take me into later this week to finish, and I want a full cure time in the mold. Clear resin takes about 3-4 days at least to fully cure, especially if it is thin.

On 9/8/2018 at 9:41 PM, Sanity is Optional said:

Converting CAD files is pretty easy (usually automated, with a few selections/options), and if it's being converted into CNC instructions, there's assist programs that reduce the workload.

Except China uses one that isn't used by anyone else. I've had to work with a couple companies that got stuck with having to deal with this issue. It's some sort of proprietary program from what I understand, and isn't just a matter of converting. 

In any case, it's getting way off topic. I got some of the parts 9ver the weekend. First thing was buffing the canopy. Because the canopy comes foggy no matter what, I used a liquid buffer and a microfiber cloth to smooth it out, followed by clear coat. I'm going to recast it so that it'll be crystal clear. Thankfully, it is quite thick, so once it cures as a copy, it will be a good, solid piece, and look as clear as a toy manufactured part.

2 hours ago, Mommar said:

Obviously.  But it seems like they could get away with comissioning fans to donthe more obscure Valks.

The problem, and I don't know if this has been resolved or if they even send these out for manufacturing, is that if they're done in China, what happens is that the original CAD is usually redone in their own specific CAD language, then it is manufactured. So any sort of design, if they still manufacture in China, is broken down and redone anyways. I wish they would do something like make unassembled kits still. It'd be cool to see some of the obscure designs. I still long for a VA-3 Invader.

So, all I'm missing now is the Kai version, and I'm simply not in a rush for it, or really anything, so I can now save up, wait, til the armor set goes up. Damn

My 31A will be here right before Super Dimension Con. It's about time.

That pew pewer is pretty unique in the picture of the blue VF-9. While I'm not the biggest fan of the GERWALK mode, I love that it has attributes that make it stand out different from what we usually see, such as the swivel cockpit. Design wise, it does look like one of the most stable designs, with everything in the center and situated below the wings.

On 8/31/2018 at 10:12 PM, Sildani said:

Process? What process?

Yes, that's it. I don't remember how much I wrote of it, but it's a long process of fill and sand. There is a putty method, too, but that one requires a little more thought in execution. I usually dilute the putty and then rub it into the parts. You have to be careful to not fill in panel lines either, as those will quickly disappear if not careful. I usually just fill with paint using Model Master fine white primer, then the last coat or two with Tamiya grey primer so I can see and observe where I need a bit more paint, or where I need to fix things. It's costly though, too, but this project is worth it.

Is this a new Messer 31, or the original?

Still working on this, but I have so much crap to do this weekend, I have to clear up all my mess, so I should have an update on Monday. But so far, the parts for the back connector are done, sealed, and I'll be making the lance now work on the 25 in fighter. I have everything chromed out now as well, and sealed, and I just need to now detail each part so that they can look ready for action. The large wing armors are the most work, as I have to color match orange again, patch up thrust parts that I've removed, and all that. Oh, and that knee attachment. I'm going to use the original. I was able to build it up to where I'm happy with the original part, and recasted it in a mineral resin, which makes it similar to a metalic aluminum. Not a popular resin as it's 5:1 ratio by weight, but it's hard as hell, with .0006 shrinkage, so it's basically the exact same as what I set. Hmmmm, so much work to do, and I'm trying to finish this by SDC. May not happen. Pics either Sunday night or Monday.

Aside from the dye strategy, which I will not do, I take a long time to prep these parts, but they come out smooth as a hi-res toy finish. Not pretty, and a lot of primer, but it's a process. It's why I didn't buy the whole kit either. It'll give me shorter goals. I do plan, once I get the canopy, to do this process, then gloss paint it, then then buff the hell out of it, then recast it in a crystal clear. I also have a liquid buffer that I can use after that, so I should be able to make a crystal clear canopy. This is what I did with the Paladin clear head top when I had to redesign it, and it was pretty clear.

Xigfrid, do you have a place to get rubber tires for this, or did you just paint yours? If there's a rubber tire to get for it, I'd love to get a set of them online.

I don't have a lot of experience with the professional plastic, and ended up ordering everything with the standard stuff. I can work with it, but damn. I may have to reorder those parts. As long as I can still do my process with them, (sand, prime, sand, prime and rescribe lines). My real dilemma is, what color do I do? There's so many versions. MtR version? Max, Miliya, or the standard color that was first shown?

6 hours ago, Jasonc said:

See, and I created my order 3 days before this, and I'm still waiting.

 

OK, get this. I send them a message, telling them that they passed my order up, and I reference order numbers that past mine and by how many days. They come up with something that didn't make too much sense, so I then reply, "So, does this mean I will be next? I've literally been passed over". I check back in my email, go there and find this. .

6 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

Thanks @Jasonc! You should check the legs and arms 3D models too

Was Kawamori a Star Wars fan? This VF-9 can transform in the Alliance logo!

 

I'll have to get it in pieces. So next check will complete it.

On ‎8‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 8:33 AM, ChaoticYeti said:

As a follow up, I just received a shipment notification and tracking.

See, and I created my order 3 days before this, and I'm still waiting.

you and I both. I would love to do the VF-27 that is in it, but that's one crazy paint scheme.

I'll be placing my order shortly.

13 minutes ago, Xigfrid said:

You executed this custom perfectly, the VF-1X++ is my favorite VF-1 and yours is just awesome !

Thanks. It really came to life because of your parts you made for it. It would just be the "early design" stage of it, which I think is what Frameout called the one they released, but this is the full custom, full race version.  The wings didn't work, but that's OK. Your work really makes this feel like it belongs to Macross the Ride.

So, I've been working on this kit for quite a long time. Between getting the official Framout kit, and using parts that were made by Xigfrid  along with some custom work of my own, I present the finished VF-1X++. It looks easy enough, but I actually ended up having to custom make the wings due to a few 3D design attempts that just didn't work. Because of that, I had to color match the wings to a Yamato white.not the easiest thing. The head  is basically all Frameout gave, along with the decals, so it was great to see that Xigfrid was willing to do the other parts. The white on the armor is simply Model Master superfine white primer, and the grey armor is Tamiya grey primer. All this is from one of the unassembled Yamato VF-1S kits.

While I may still touch up a piece here or there, I do want to customize the pilot, but as of now, she is done. 

I should also point out that it still fully transforms and all the pieces work as the toy was intended. No special parts swapping for transformation.

I hope you guys enjoy.

Wow, looks great. I'll be getting it once it's all uploaded. By any chance, can you make the figures available in the hi-res clear? Since that doesn't require too much sanding and not to much handling, I'd like to get that piece in that finish. Just a request from me.

Getting around that time. Can't wait to see the results.

And this little piece is the backpack connector. The 2mmx1mm round magnets there are to help with securing the lance to it, but they are not strong enough to really do a suitable job. However, the design of the new piece, with the rail guides that protrude is. Between the two, it will hold upside down in fighter mode. 

For the 9f you who got this kit from me, you may want to make sure that when testing the lance connector (the top piece on the lance) that it is snug  but something you don't have to peel off. My first attempt at this had it way too tight, and it took too much work to get it out. If you need to, use a 400 grit sand paper in between the columns where the lance connection will slide in, an lightly sand until a desired thickness is obtained. Also take 8nto account paint.

These will be chromed and sealed on Tuesday. True test Wednesday.

One more of the top.