PsYcHoDyNaMiX
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Posts posted by PsYcHoDyNaMiX
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As promised, some more pics (before I burn out for the night... )
I also made some changes to a few parts, made another pair of hands, have some more ideas and will print them up later this week hopefully.
Red Visor pics to compliment the Green Visor pics posted earlier:
Spoiler
Poses:
Spoiler
Head articulation:
Spoiler
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1 hour ago, JNordgren42 said:
That's a really nice set of conversion parts, fantastic job all around.
Thank you very much for the kind compliments! 🙏
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Battroid, I used a Blue 503 SMD LED for the head:
Spoiler
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Gerwalk:
Spoiler
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Meh... I definitely need more practice using a camera, lol. Also battery died out, so I'll be taking more another day (tmw). Additional replies/posts to follow with more pics/modes/poses:
Canopies, two different sets each consisting of clear, tinted, tinted heatshield, matte tinted heatshield:
Spoiler
AAL Antennas:
SpoilerNormal Size:
XL Size:
Normal Size:
XL Size:
Loadout, bay door beam cannon ports are LED capable. I modeled channels/pathing for LEDs and wiring, I kind of gave up trying to wire them after some time... maybe another day:
Spoiler
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Brooding... from lack of sleep! Lol... 😓
Just a teaser pic...
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Just posting this for now... more in a day or two. Not my cleanest work with Future... pretty exhausted.
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On 6/23/2025 at 10:13 AM, JNordgren42 said:
That's some fantastic modeling and print work, well done! 3D printing is really a game changer for the hobby.
Thank you and I appreciate the comment! Yes, 3D printing is a complete game changer.
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Aghhh... I've been real busy. I was suppose to post an update last week but then made some changes and figured I would hold off.
I made an update on the "SENSOR INSIDE" emboss for a fourth version 'D'... a combination of 'B' and 'C' (the two most liked versions). I did size up the lettering yet its still barely visible. I'll have to check the exposure calibration settings for the resin (again) since the temps here in NYC have been fluctuating from 80s to 50s the last two weeks.
There are four color combinations (so far):
1) Blue lettering with Red Visor
2) Red lettering with Green Visor
3) Red lettering with Red Visor
4) Blue lettering with Green Visor
1) and 4) have been my favorite so far. Everything is still being held together by Blu-Tak so it's just a hair gaped.Spoiler
The mono eye is visible in the visor (I know it's barely atm) and I also realized I probably grabbed an older (non AA) forehead red sensor for the (left) green head because I can see the voxels. All the prints for the last two months I've been using Anti-Aliasing and the voxels have been non-existent.
I did the 603 SMD LED wiring last week, took pictures and all but then got the bright idea to model in wire channels/paths into and printed the parts. Good news is that it worked out really well for the head parts... bad news that I might not have enough room for the Bay Doors Beam Ports (sorry not pictured) unless I really cram in the wiring and solder the wires in tighter constraints/spacing on the 603s or use 402 SMD LEDs and I don't have any, LOL.
Also 30 AWG wire was used.Spoiler
603 SMD LED for reference:
The following last two pics were from last week where I probably damaged the connection points on the green SMD because the second pic I used it for the red visor it was drastically dimmer.
For the Canopy Windows I went through the sanding, polishing, Future process last week and realized I made it all more difficult for no reason. I also ran into an issue about how to Future the VF22S side windows (I laid them down flat 🤦♂️ LOL). My solution/workaround was to re-orient the window parts so that they're floating with supports contacting none of the viewing surfaces inside or out. The results: canopy windows that can be dipped into Future without having to sand (unless needed, some light sanding does help). Just snip off some of the extra supports, dip into Future and set in a container to dry for 24-48 hrs (tedious and painstaking time consuming process).
SpoilerParts sanded heavily from 600-12000 grit, then dipped into Future. These parts are prior to the floating windows idea.
The following pics are tests for floating windows:
Parts sanded down a little bit...
Test result:
Parts re-oriented and re-supported for floating windows, probably over-did the supports:
Some supports removed:
Trimmed free standing/floating parts ready for Future dip:
Post Future process/pics pending the drying process...
I batch printed the the Antennas and they're pretty much ready to go. two passes with a red Sharpe marker and three passes with cotton swabs and alcohol clean up the parts pretty well. Same process applies for the head pieces. I used some Blu-Tak to hold up the antennas for the pics, so if you see a little bit of a darker spot in the center its the Blu-Tak.
Just as a reference... the XL AAL is about the same length as the YF/VF-19 DX Antenna. The AALs have a decent amount of flex to them too...
Spoiler
AAL (size) flex:
Other pics idk/forgot to put in the post:Spoiler
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18 hours ago, Lolicon said:
So who preordered the PG unleashed Nu? Got one at HLJ but who knows when I will have time to put it together.
I was lucky enough to land a PO with hlj as well. I'm in the same boat... don't ask me about my backl,... wait what? LOL...
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On my lunch break... just an update. I know I usually post Sunday evening/night, but I was busy with things and wanted to work on the project some more.
The bay doors printed vertically came out great! The horizontal prints suffered from some pooling on the inside along the outer edge next to the standoffs (I'll probably have to spin the parts 180 degrees to prevent this). On the vertical, the only issue I encountered was the standoffs were 0.25-0.5mm too long/wide in the z-axis (printer direction, not model), everything else about the part was spot on, odd. I ended up having to do some shaving/trimming/sanding to get the parts to fit. So I'll just have to make adjustments to the model and reprint in the same orientation and angles to test.
I do prefer the matte finish on the horizontal print more and the vertical print seemed come out glossy (?) when placed side by side. I actually had pics of the horizontal print (ver) mounted with the YF-21 FP covers, but I guess no point in showing those now, so the mounted pics are of the vertical ones... lol.Spoiler
I printed a set of canopies with the supports on the outside/updside down. This made post processing much easier (sanding/polishing, etc.), but not easier for the heat-shield versions, so those will probably be printed with supports on the underside to save the detailing.
Spoiler
I spent a good part of the weekend sanding, polishing and dipped the canopy window parts in Future. I'm giving them a good 24-48 hrs to dry before handling, sorry no pics yet.
I modeled up the markings for the head, the "KEEP CLEAN" imho I felt the best position it could be in (I tried a few different angles/positions), and three different positions for the "SENSOR INSIDE" marking (A,B, or C). Let me know if one looks better than the other. I already printed up all three to see and yes I know you can barely see it. The original markings were painted in white on the blue faceplate whereas this is grey, I'll try to determine what color inks/paints or Sharpe marker I can go over them with just as I did with the Antenna (pictured). I was thinking Blue, Red or maybe even Yellow. I don't think the white would show up too well against the grey.
Spoiler
Also... I modeled up a mono-eye... this is kind of where I need to stop myself before I end up doing too much. I remembered I had a bunch of SMDs laying around and went digging. 603 SMDs fit in the Mono-eye section. I needed to order some ultra thin solder. I'm just not sure atm where to place the batteries (prob cell type), 😵lol:
Spoiler
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Agreed. Definitely another center piece.
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Pic for attention...
Did quite a bit since last post:- Separate/exploded the heat shield windows for both the VF22S and Concept Canopies and adjusted the detailing.
- I was able to successfully emboss "NO STEP" and adjusted the sizing for "CANOPY KEEP CLEAN" (so it's more visible). No idea how the usual method eluded me the other week, lol...
- Worked on the bay doors (with a few cool/nice features), not sure if you can spot them from the pics...
- For the hell of it, I worked on open/grasping/grabby hands, fixed and jointed (at the wrist)... from scratch. Ah yea, I haven't mentioned this before everything has been modeled from reference pics, measuring and a bit of creative liberty, no 3D scans or AI involved.
- Printed all of the above in clear, clear black, blue (for the frames) and still going through the process of sanding/fitting things. I know the parts look very rough... they got a little mishandled during transport and the post cleaning process (I dropped stuff 😕).
More pics:
Spoiler
- Realized the thumb for the hands was just a little too big, already resized and probably will be printed with the next batch/set.
- While sanding/cleaning the parts up I realized the standoffs for the bay doors seemed like a cool idea to avoid any printing complications, but I realized by separating the standoffs it made the cleanup/assembly process more difficult as they are pretty tiny. I do have the standoffs labeled accordingly. I'll try printing them in place. I'll post pics of the bay doors mounted probably in a day or two.
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I have not embossed the heads (yet)... still debating and the reasoning is the same, as there might not be enough space/placement... idk. Maybe I'll make a few drafts and make a post for some input.
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Just an update (as the weekend starts). Maybe I'll get around to making another post on Sunday/Monday, idk...
First pic for your attention, additional in the spoilers...
I have a more final-ish shape of the VF22S bay door, added the detail (probably didn't need to just yet), accounted/adjusted for stand-off tolerances (exact placement and mounting maybe this weekend...), and printed it up on the lower res printer just to get it out fast (accounted this is just another iteration). I know there is a feature (optional) I want to add to this design.Spoiler
For the hell of it, definitely OTT and unnecessary, I separated/exploded the canopies... I'll work on the assembly this weekend and adjust if needed. Separating the supports from the canopy frames was a bit concerning, lol.
I also added heatshield detailed versions as well.
Spoiler
I added the "CANOPY KEEP CLEAN" marking to the side of the canopies, but its tiny as hell... it's there on the clear test parts for this batch but you'll need a magnifier, lol. Not sure how much more I can size it up (the first screenshot in the set is what I have it as currently). IIRC the size I went with on the head laser/antenna does not fit on the canopy unless I place it under the panel line (above the cutout tab), where it is not on the Bandai YF-21 DX and I do not want to do that.
The "NO STEP" marking does not work well at all. I've tried several different methods and because of the shape and faces of the canopy it does not emboss/want to play well at all, lol. Worst case I'll just nix/skip the emboss markings on the canopies entirely and not even bother with them on the head pieces as the real estate/surface areas are tiny, idk...
I guess I may play with it some more this weekend.
Spoiler
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Made some progress on the VF22S bay door cover, but had an event on Saturday so I had a bit less time to work on the project. Kind of conflicted and unsure if I want to really redesign the shape of the front section for the bay door fp (I had sketched up a few ideas prior, not pictured), before adding/applying the details. 🙄
I did make and print up the first iteration of the rear vertical stabilizer FP and it fit, but decided to scratch that idea because I realized by turning/canting the top of the forearm outward (while in fighter mode) with the original/stock Bandai DX FP Stabilizer actually lines up pretty well (so no need to reinvent the wheel). 🤷♂️
I took a magnifier and I believe the markings on the side of the canopies say "Caution Keep Clean", LOL.
I was able to emboss the side marking onto the canopies with no issue but unfortunately because of the shape a few of the methods I've tried didn't allow the 'NO STEP' to apply nicely onto the top/center of the canopies. I will have to try other methods and now I'm currently unsure if I want the 'NO STEP' marking to be permanently embossed/cut into the canopies. Now, I'm determining if and where I would want to place the markings on the heads... 🤔
Spoiler
Thought I had posted pics of fighter mode, uploaded these:Spoiler
Dunked the concept canopy (ver II 0.05mm res, no AA, no sanding) into Future (yes I still have the old bottle laying around. I'll have to pick up a bottle of the new stuff "Pledge", lol) and a 2:1 water:future mix (ver III 0.05mm res, no AA, no sanding). Ver III was the iteration I went overboard with supports and it suffered from scarring. The 2water:1future mix yield a matte finish (I forgot about that from my old WH40K Days). Ver V is the only set atm printed at 0.03mm, AA on. Ver VI will have the embossed markings printed at 0.03mm AA on:Spoiler
Hopefully I'll have a bigger update by the end of the week, prior to the weekend. I do want to get this project out of the way.
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Dropping an update...
TLDR:
I worked on the fastpacks a bit, reworked supports for existing parts, moved over to the higher res printers, reduced the layer heights, adjusted tolerances (some more), enabled AA and the results were great! I got the colors dialed in decently well (aside from the AAL Antennas, there's a reason, lol). I've realized I sunk quite a bit of time color matching.
The good stuff:SpoilerThe Antennas I used a flexible (clear) resin to allow it some resilience and by using said resin I had to try my best to make it opaque as possible, without the pigments/dyes separating over time during the print. I thought about it but sinking more into color matching with other brands only to find out it may not achieve the desired results either, so I'm making the best use of what I currently have and adjusting from there.
I used some online interactive color pickers and charts to see how far off I was and I was happy to say (aside from the Antennas), I was not too far off, lol. I'll spare the post and not dump info that may not matter as much to most.
Things to do still:- Work on the fastpacks (some more). I've already printed up test parts and will be making adjustments this week. Hopefully a really big update next week(end).
- Polish, paint up canopies... debating if I should go nuts with the assembly (idk... might be too much imho).
- I originally wanted to do waterslides too but I don't have access to a color laser printer atm. Yes I'm aware it can be done with an inkjet printer but results are less desirable. The alternative/debating if I should emboss markings on the head and other parts (I already did on the AAL Antennas).
Yes, I made a green visor for the VF1R, but I got lazy and didn't put it together. Also missing the green forehead sensor for the VF1R as I goofed and overlooked better supports for the tiny parts and the green sensors failed on the last set of prints.
Friends have already said they like the red visor version the most. Let me know what you think below... or not, lol.
End note:
Trying extremely hard not to go into the realm of over doing things with details, but I know because it's stuff I appreciate others would too. However, if I did at the same time then this project would never see the light of day, LOL. -
8 hours ago, VF8000G said:
Someone else on another forum also just mentioned their YF-21 having a stubbed left foot. I can safely conclude that this is indeed probably another widespread defect. As if this figure didn't already have enough. 🤦♂️
Pics of the right foot on mine are in the spoiler:
Spoiler
2 hours ago, Actar said:I filmed a video of just how loose my YF-21's knees have gotten.
Seriously, of all its faults, this is the most egregious in my book...
That's horribly loose, like flapping in the wind.
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19 minutes ago, VF8000G said:
Yes, the left toes are stubbed on both of my copies. Trying to frankenstein a "good" one together and replace the bad toe with the good one from the other figure. But Bandai has welded the legs and feet together in such a way that there's no method I can even discern to disassemble either the legs or feet other than the obvious delimiter mode, which won't help here. It's a lot different from the old figures which had lots of screws, even if they were behind screw covers.
I think this might be another common defect that people missed, given the other more catastrophic issues with the figure.
Aww damn... I'm sorry to hear. Yea on one of the copies that I've checked (thoroughly) had a dented/bent foot tip. I'm sure it was rushed/jammed in the calf compartment by the assembly workers. I ended up using hot water to kind of sculpt it back into place with one of my metal CSI Creos 'T' rulers. I had the same thought process that if in the future if one of the other copies I has the same issue I could attempt a swap, but I have not checked as to disassembling it in depth yet.
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8 hours ago, Actar said:
How are the knee ratches on your copies holding up? I've since just relegated mine to the display stand, but after a couple of week's worth of posing, they got really floppy.
Mine has been holding up for the most part, being the two modes I've been utilizing are gerwalk and battroid mode. In the past two months maybe changing it b/w the two modes 1-3x a week.
10 minutes ago, VF8000G said:Anyone know how to disassemble the foot? Specifically, removing the lower front feet that's pointed? Does it just pop off with a bit of force? These Bandai figures with their lack of screws are so annoying to fix.
Sorry I do not. Are you attempting a repair?
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TLDR: Just an update. I've been working on dialing the blue some more and started with the light blue-gray parts. I have to make some more adjustments due to the exposure settings because of the different mixtures of resin and colors.
Sorry just took some quick shots with my phone's crappy camera. I didn't want to pull out the DSLR for pics just yet. Quick note: everything is held together with blu-tak. Yes parts are slotted and keyed and yes there are clear parts for the forehead sensor. I didn't add them in because they are small (they do fit no issue at all).
The left is the first blue part (from last week), the right was printed up this past Friday. I know it looks a bit washed out and lighter (I had the overhead LED desk light set on high).
On the light's first setting it looked more correct, the 2nd blue printout is still connected to the supports, the first blue color is the top of the VF1R head (and the spare/scrap support/raft next to the YF-21DX head):
Yea the desk LED light's high setting really washes out the colors. I'll try to add a bit more blue/black to the light blue-grey for the second test/set:
Spoiler for a little write-up and some earlier WIP pics:SpoilerI've included a reference palette I put together for the modeling process. from the image I started with one (not shown) similar to the upper left pair shown, then the second attempt I modeled the pair on the second row (from top down), and the third version is actually the one in the upper left. All of the first three iterations I modeled up were referenced heavily on the Yamato VF22S head. I hit a hard wall and burnt out for a weekend and went back to the drawing board.
I put together the palette/collage and gathered more reference material (there really isn't much out there, lol). I started again but remembered I had the VF1Riders' conversion kit and used that battroid head (I guess more for practice). I did surprisingly well with that. The colors used on the VF1Riders' battroid head is/was the color scheme I'm aiming for the VF22S on the YF-21 Body. Blue head, light blue-gray, red visor, green sensor.
NOTE:
I have not posted the 3d model renders/pics for the printed version yet*. I probably will post the 3d render pics when the project is near its first phase completion.
I've probably gone through 6 printed/different batches (not pictured) for the VF22S head, around 10 versions not including the colored version(s). All the versions/iterations were for sizing/spacing, positioning and they have a great range of movement (due to the ball joint). YES, the version I modeled up (hoping to finalize) can stay on between the transformation process fighter>gerwalk>battroid without having to be removed.
*Eureka moment* it closed! Other versions had a slight gap, parts colliding preventing transformation. Yes, sizing was crucial... 0.5mm threw it off, lol.
I was going to originally go with a version that was scaled evenly, but it looked a little on the thin/narrow side (top-row/first set). The VF1Riders is the middle row/second set. The bottom row/third set is the extra wide version I modeled/designed and it fits the look very well (imho). It's actually a little bigger X/Y/Z in comparison to Bandai's default YF-21 DX Battroid head.
With the VF1Riders VF22S head that I modeled and printed... that version can only be used for battroid mode because of it's shape/design. I tried to scale it to accommodate the transformation process but the side perspective looked too weird (as pictured in the bottom row of the palette/collage).
Canopies, check the following spoiler:
SpoilerThe top row/set is the second batch of clear canopies printed. I've included them in the pic because I used some really great manual supports that broke away very cleanly, however they did not fit (imho) perfectly... they were off by about 0.5mm.
The bottom row/set is the third batch of clear canopies printed. I actually messed up because I went overboard with the supports and made a mess, but they fit perfectly well with the YF-21DX.
I also modeled up Custom Replacement Antennas (yes I got lazy, I went quick and dirty by printing them in clear, nor properly orienting them and with horrible supports but the clear is resilient enough to withstand flex. I guess that was the real test aside from fitting. The normal length Custom Replacement Antenna is 0.5mm short (I've since corrected this and will print the updated version in the next batch):
VF1R head with Custom Replacement Antenna, Concept Canopy III (L), VF22S Canopy III (R)
VF22S Max head with Custom Replacement Antenna: VF22S Canopy III (L), right Concept Canopy III (R):
VF22S Max head with X-Large Custom Antenna, left is Concept Canopy II, right is Concept Canopy III. I included the mounted CCII in the pics to show the slight gap in fittment and also the clean look with correctly done supports:
And modeling up more parts...
Spoiler for more pics:SpoilerCurrently working on rear stabilizer replacements, bay door covers (modeled for the VF22S) and other ideas, while I don't have any project priority/eta for these yet, but I know the baydoors are going to be the more challenging part because looking at Bandai's design for the YF-21 (bay door) fastpacks, they were really fitted with a lot more curves than anything else I've worked on so far for this project. We'll see.
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I've been dialing in the colors, making more adjustments, and calibrations. Not tiny pics but not high def (sorry)... I'll have hi res pics hopefully sometime by the end of the week when the first (this) phase of the project is almost done.
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damn... a report of a QC issue with the MB Zeta. Appears to be the connector/part for the waverider wing:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/112827532119888/posts/9497340920335122/ -
I was going to post an update on Friday, but got pretty busy. I have the next iterations to be printed for tomorrow and I'll post the results then.
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2 hours ago, Bolt said:
That's cool. Did you print the parts?
Yup, printed test versions already. Going through iterations, adjustments and the such. Should have another update by the end of the week hopefully.
DX VF-31JA
in The Workshop!
Posted
Awesome job! 🔥