Skull-1

Give it time and the paint will begin to bubble and flake... Then give it a good scrub with a bristle brush and re-soak as needed.

Soak in PineSol for a minimum of a week. One or two days won't do much. Also, use a sealed Tupperware-like container. No smell. I use the Lemon scented PineSol regardless as it is easier on the nose when I do open it up. Works flawlessly.

Well what's the primary ingredient in plastic if not oil or petroleum of some sort? YIKES.

Pine Sol works flawlessly in my experience with it over the past five years or so. It requires patience, but I am confident that it does not damage the underlying plastic. I am not willing to take the chance on oven cleaner or brake fluid. If it is powerful enough to strip paint off that quickly then it is probably causing harm to the underlying surface.

Here you go. All of these under construction.

I feel your pain. My work looks better to the naked eye than on a camera... That being said, yours looks better on camera (actually, outstanding) than mine does...so by deduction I must conclude that your work looks unf***ingbelievable to the naked eye.

Pretty righteous man.

Believe it or not RUSTOLEUM ORANGE is actually a dead match. Weird.

This is sage advice. The price of doing it right the first time is always cheaper than repeating after you've f'ed it up being an impatient dolt. <S>

I hand paint nearly all my models. From 1/120 Macross to 1/48 World War II fighters. It all depends on how you do it. If you are working with flat enamels you can get great results with a brush. The wider the brush the better and yes, short bristles are bad for streaks.

Saludos!

Long straight strokes with a wide brush make for a smooth job. Do not go over the same spot more than a couple of times. As the paint congeals it becomes streakier.

BIEN HECHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good job!!!!!!!!!!!!

Would that melt the plastic?

I'm happy to help in any way I can. I *HAVE* used Krylon Fusion. Only because I couldn't get the color I wanted in any other brand. It works okay. No real problems with it that I have noted.

I'll buy it. Or I can send you some leg armor.

We need a logo!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

I use standard "Fine" sandpaper. Just go over to Home Depot and get finest one they sell. I forget the grain but I know it when I see it--you will, too. WD's method of priming will smooth out the scrathes before applying your color coat. I simply circular wetsand and apply to thin layers of paint and it has the same effect. You may try both methods on a pair of identical parts and compare. You might be happier with one over the other. I work almost exclusively with Enamels so that's another issue that may affect my non-use of primer.

I've always wanted to do that Super O but I wussed out. I'm gonna' have to do it someday. I went with a more customized version for mine for some reason... I guess to be a little different. If I ever find another set of "D" seats I'm gonna' go for it. At least the VF-1D from the TV Series... I need another resin D head...

Priming is not entirely necessary. I have had better success with sanding then painting vs. sanding/priming/painting or priming/painting. The enemy of any transformable model's paintjob is friction. "Where the parts rub the paint will scrub." Primer adds thickness to the overall paintjob and rarely matches the top color so when the surface paint rubs away you see the primer underneath. I tend to sand as much as possible then paint. After I transform the thing numerous times paint wear spots will show. I remove the part, re-sand, re-paint. Additional chips or wear marks I dab with a paintbrush as necessary. On my primed pieces I do this much more often than on those I simply paint. To each his own but experimentation will probably tell you what works best. Sandable primer is great for fixing surface imperfections, and when you have a beat up part sometimes it is your only option. But as a rule I do not prime anything, and my paint seems to hold up amazingly well, especially DUPLI-COLOR's stuff.

I second that one. WOW what a nice job.

I don't prime usually. It just makes it thicker and easier to rub off. If your primer and paint are the same color it is less an issue. Sand the hell out of *everything* especially where parts rub. Use light even coats. Rustoleum and Duplicolor are the best spraypaints you will find... The advice from previous posters valid as well.

We are mere amateurs compared to KidKorrupt, Fulcy, and WmCheng... We are making a feeble attempt to follow in their enormous footsteps.

Well, they're getting better with each one I do. I may get to KidKorrupt standards someday... Plenty of replacement ratchets around. I wouldn't sweat that one too much.

Oh goody another member of the Chunky Monkey Mafia. MUHUHUHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!