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dur

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Everything posted by dur

  1. With the scalptastic price the hip-dislocatey-0D goes for right now, the sub 40k yen price looks downright reasonable.
  2. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    Or, the post was an error, and whoever bought it is going to receive a refund and an apology. Happened to me before when a Japanese seller accidentally listed an Arcadia VF-0S for $250 bucks. I was a sad panda... But I agree, if I had the chance, I would have taken it just to get another one... oh man am I addicted...
  3. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    I know this is unlikely, but I personally really hope they release Arad's 31A, an alpha 1, 2, 4, 5, 6.... (and while they're at it, beta 1-6)... the more the merrier! I couldn't care less if the ones I own depreciate, I just want to be able to get more. I also hope that going forward we see more grey low-viz style schemes in macross series. I hope they get the hint from Ozma's 25, 29, and the 31A that the demand is there.
  4. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    Blah- when the DX VF-1J released, almost all 1/60 valks took a nose dive in value as the market flooded with people trying to get funds for it. Now that things have settled and supply has been dropping, prices across the board are sky-rocketing... I do have to confess to nabbing another pair of 31A's though during the panic
  5. Every time I pick up a valk, I can't resist the temptation to transform. If it breaks, it's an excuse for me to try to improve it! If I wanted static display pieces, I'd just buy 3 copies of the variable model. I buy the 1/60's and DX's for perfect transformation and it's just so cool seeing it go between all the modes. Fighter is generally my favorite mode though, so after I get my fix, the valks usually end up back in fighter mode. I think my first vf-25A (first modern valk, I purchased) I've transformed at least 100 times. Really a testament to the design of the valk that there's nothing really wrong with it outside of floppy hips, which have their fix with a periodic adjustment. (when I'm feeling braver, I'll probably try the silicone padding trick to fix it for good) It's currently being repainted into low-viz US navy colors since it was getting jealous of the 31A's awesome scheme
  6. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    Is it just me, or does the armor completely replace the forward canards? You can pull them out with enough force. That would mean that Kairos armor has even less issues in the way for getting made I initially thought the armor looked kind of dumb, but fighter mode got me good: I just bought a 31S for this armor to go on.
  7. From a fun factor and design perspective, I still vastly prefer my '25s to the more modern valks. Looks absolutely killer with FP's, AP's TP too. I only wish that more of the parts locked in gerwalk and battroid (though fighter is plenty secure).
  8. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    I guess this isn't so relevant anymore, but if you have problems with HLJ in the future, try using your phone or tablet to access the sight. The mobile site generally works better, at least for me (maybe due to reduced traffic? Hope this announcement doesn't screw us all over )
  9. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    Maybe, just maybe, if Bandai decides to make the plastic of the cantilevered parts of the armor super-light (like their figuarts plastic) I could see how it wouldn't necessarily put too much strain on the fig, though the extra stands present on the display make me think otherwise. I was going to buy Arad just to get something to put armor on, but yeah, definitely reconsidering at this point, leaning towards "skip." If they come out with Kairos armor, I'd probably buy a set just to have, even if I try it once and then put it back in the box, for completist sake. There's still another delta movie coming, right? Maybe we'll see a tornado-like equivalent of more "moderate" armor? I really like the FP armor outside of the boosters- I think that's the one thing that doesn't really integrate well with the design. I was hoping they'd have the boosters out on the wing tips, like the tornado pack, as it would then have much more of a spacecraft look rather than "airplane plus stuff" look. Given how cheap 25G tornado packs are.... maybe it's time to 3d print me an adapter
  10. Frankly, from how much this hobby costs? If the valk doesn't explode when handling, consider me sold on just about anything. The Arcadia VF-0's, for all their color and paint woes, and even hip woes, are otherwise very durable! (it sounds like I'm saying my car is reliable except for all the parts that break , haha) I do wish the Arcadia VF-0A had followed Yamato's paint scheme, but I'll take an intact color incorrect valk over an explody color correct one.
  11. dur

    BANDAI DX YF-19!!

    Boy, I thought I lucked out: head laser intact, tail fins perfect. And then... I transformed it to discover this: Literally no pressure on the hand at all, out of the box it was snapped off like that. [Please forgive my nasty looking nails: I was transforming the yf-19 while waiting for my low-viz VF-1 custom to dry from painting ] Thankfully, I had my trusty no. 76 drill bit and K&S engineering brass rod nearby to repin it and it's good as new now, but just adding this for record keeping sake. This one can't be blamed on shipment- I don't know how it happened!
  12. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    For those with the movie 31-F: what is it about the draken adapters such that you need to switch them out for battroid mode? Is it that the fighter mode prevents the wings from folding? Just curious if a perfect transformation 3D printed part is possible or completely out of the picture. I'm very tempted to snatch one up right now- poor messer is getting dumped all over YJA at pretty low prices...
  13. @xigfrid, did you 3D print your own 1/60 AMRAAM's and AIM-9's, or are those from a kit or something? I just got in my Starscream (i.e. F-15 standin) and corgi f-14 and am looking for some ordinance. I was thinking of trying to 3D print some AIM-54's as well, cause what's an F-14 without it's AIM-54's :)? Also, for that carrier base, are you using 1/72? 1/60 is exactly 20% off from both 1/72 and 1/48 in either direction, so I'm not sure which one tends to look better. IMHO the DX macross valks look 1/72-ish while the Arcadia VF-0 series really looks like 1/48 with a 1/60 pilot stuck in a cockpit that's way too large. I guess for everyone's information, I'm going to try and order some of the "1/72" fighters from aliexpress that are a little oversized (I believe several of the Russian and Chinese fighters are actually 1/68) to see how they fit together.
  14. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    Dang, that makes me salivate for the dedicated 31A FP's. Kinda wish I hadn't sold my messer FP's now.
  15. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    From the photos, it doesn't look like the window frosting is any different: was that already improved for the first 31F release? (Is only the 31J the only one that needs to run the defroster?) I was trying to avoid this valk since I prefer the 31A... gettin' thirsty though...
  16. Amazing display! Thanks for the tips on the 1/60 things! Out of curiosity, do diaclone pilots fit in the cockpit of any VF's ? PS Thanks for the tip on the Tomcat- going to buy it and "fix" it (repaint, re-decal. Hopefully with some scaled up markings).
  17. Forgive me if my search-fu is off, but I thought an updated thread would be beneficial anyways. For those of you who like your valks interacting with other things, what else is in 1/60 scale? I've bought myself a masterpiece starscream just to use as an F-15 for my macross zero era toys to blow up (just wish there was also an f-14...). I was even thinking about getting some 1/60 gundams to fight, but I can't really locate anything else in this odd scale.
  18. I couldn't stand not knowing what would happen so I went ahead and transformed to gerwalk and back 2 or 3 times. It seems to be holding up (though I developed another crack right next to the leg-to-fuselage connector on the back of the leg). I have nearly FILLED the intake pieces with CA (going around the gerwalk joint of course)- I think that might be why it's ok right now as it's like a brick with a candy shell instead of a hollow part. Thanks for the replies: I guess I'm thankful that I got lucky this time! I also tried the hip extension gimmick and it still works (I know that's kind of a taunt with a VF-0A, but count me lucky).
  19. dur

    Bandai DX VF-31

    Next step: design and 3D print a perfect transformation adapter for the drakens!
  20. Well, crap. I guess I've got nothing to lose by trying to anneal the plastic in the oven then! If it goes really south, I'll leave it as a static fighter mode model- I guess that's why I got three of these things anyways
  21. I've actually got the super parts painted already in dark ghost gray (to compliment the light ghost gray fighter), I just didn't try mounting them yet. After I clean up the paint fading (hopefully some time this week?) I'll do a quick photo shoot- got to transform it too to make sure the paint and decals survive! And yes, I'm definitely going to tint the nose cone lighter to represent a fighter that's been using its radar in combat (or at least on CAP) . I suppose it's not too late to change the super part booms/strike cannon, but I'm kind of losing steam on this build and will probably leave them dark ghost. So other than tweaking the "fade" and doing a final sanding of all surfaces in 1000 grit (just to give it that uniform surface look), and maybe a teeny tiny bit of lining/weathering, I'm going to call this one done. I've got a VF-25A and VF-0A on the workbench that need some love! All that being said, once I finish it, I am probably going to sell it: this is my last hi-metal R that I didn't want to sell incomplete, and I want to stick to 1/60.
  22. Can't believe I started this over 2 years ago- life gets in the way! I'm nearing the final stages now. In hindsight, the duracoat is great for the joint areas, but painting with acrylic is just so much easier (I picked a similar shade so that if it scratches, the duracoat underneath is a very similar color). I'm touching up the fast packs and a few funny paint areas: almost done. You can see that my fading is uneven on some of the decals: that's WIP (I dilute my base color with clear coat so I can spray it translucent- going for a very faded look on everything). You can also see that I messed up the modex number slant since I worked on it at 3 am: going to replace those.
  23. Well, as I said, I sanded and repainted the component, so it looks like a painted brick... I could take pictures if something explodes again, and if it doesn't, I guess I don't have to worry about it. It looked like mp03 starscream after trying to transform it, if that helps... (cracked abs plastic around a hinge)
  24. Sooooo I was stripping down one of my Arcadia VF-0A's for repainting using mr. thinner instead of my usual rubbing alcohol (since it works so much faster... sigh...) when I noticed that the gerwalk joint spontaneously started exploding. Turns out you're not supposed to use that on straight plastic and this is a well documented effect for modelers. So I stopped, I repaired and sanded the fissures I saw with CA, and now I'm wondering if this toy is now compromised. Is there anyway to "undo" the embrittlement? Should I just glue this together in fighter mode? The rest of the fig seems fine.
  25. Just wondering: has anyone tried using dispersion dye on Bandai and/or Arcadia's plastic? Looking to get some more beautifully drab gray valks and I don't want to deal with paint rub, but I'm a bit nervous about dumping the thing wings and everything in 90C water.
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