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Posts posted by Kylwell
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Just watched a tutorial where it used a polyurethan coat to obtain gloss, and protection for decals, and I whant do a try, but I dont talk japanese.
Please, can anyone say what is this ? :
Do you need a specific polyurethane coat or will JW etc's work? It's available in gloss, satin & matte.
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I always get a little giddy when John starts up a new project.
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Can ya hum a few bars? I think I might be able to fake it.
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Duh! even the moon reflects light!
You do realize I am talking about paints that are supposed to be dull but under certain circumstances are quite glossy?
I collect mainly military diecast models, and diecast models hardly get that aspect of real-life aircraft done: DULL is really "coarse" and very "flat", while GLOSSY is like nail polish, but matte-flat-dull grey on modern fighters do look shiny at some angles under the sun.
To the point: the fun of making CGI models is probably (I don't have the skills) the capability of achieving a more realistic effect.
But your statement makes it sounds like the reason light reflects off of matte paint is due to the underlying metal.
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Metal is still metal (assuming VF are made of some kind of overtechnology metal) so they still reflect light, even if they're covered in dull/flat paint....in a 3D model, probably you have to find a good balance between weathered (using bitmaps as "skin" with weathering painted in) and some kind of semi-reflective surface instead of just assigning colors to the surface of the CGI.
FSX did a good job with some of the stock aircraft (yes, they're civilian) in that matter, they look dull but when sun is reflected there is some kind of sheen to it.
Look at pictures of contemporary fighter planes in low vis (gray) paints, they still reflect sunlight at some angles and the paint is definitely dull, not glossy like commercial aircraft. David is right about white paint though, especially US Navy 70's liveries, and the "Skull Squad" pretty much takes it from Jolly Rogers (VF-84?) F-14's, still, when in active service, the gloss usually wears out quickly!
And the most important thing: that VF-25 CGI you have there is amazing, can we have a look with higher res? the transformation looks accurate and so the proportions!!
Since when does matte or flat paint not reflect light?
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I usually go for a semi-gloss finish. Matte also works.
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Paints
in Model kits
By and large I use Tamiya for most everything. Gunze for other things, occasionally Testors Acry, and Alclad (lacquer) for most metals.
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Thanks Kyle. I'm looking forward to giving the 500 a try. Cheers.
Does anyone have a link to a guide on using filters? Google isn't being very helpful.
http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm
I was fortunate to have somebody local who's ear I could bend on the subject.
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Wow, what a great piece Kyle.
1. Collect Ma.Kross kits
2. ?
3. Profit
btw, is the cast iron effect on the hull cast on the resin pieces already, or did you add that yourself? Looks amazing, very Sherman-tank style.
The cast texture is Mr. Surfacer 500 and a stippling brush. Depending on the amount of stippling and for how long varies the texture.
Thanks all, kind of tickled how things turned out.
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whups... wrong place....
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1/35 Monster custom-made one-off? Sure, I'll do it. You picking up the tab?
I'll probably revive the 1/32 Legioss before I get around to that though.
Didn't Sean say that if somebody make a 1/35 Monster he'd figure out a way to make it remote controlled?
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Yeah, sorry, should've been more specific. I was thinking of an actual kit, based on this picture:
I've heard of Mike's kit, thanks for reminding me...I'll spend some time digging around and see if I can find some info on it. Like I said, just curious.
I've got a MS Monster up for sale...
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The new Kotobukiya Trailer Base 003 and 004 look great IMO....
http://hlj.com/product/KBYMB-30
http://hlj.com/product/KBYMB-31
I may preorder at least one of these...
My big issue with the Koto trucks is the general lack of detail and big honking mounting pin holes. Otherwise they're awesome.
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Thanks for pointing that out then Kly... it was totally SUPPOSED to go to the model's page, but I must have goofed with the copy and paste... I fixed it now, so check it out!
Ah! Now I see. Thanks!
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If you clicked the link and went to the full write-up, you'd know they are The shoulder spikes are AN (short spikes for the sides and a long spike for the middle... now I have a set of two longs and a short for another project) along with the mono-eye and the machine gun barrel... AN makes gorgeous stuff, and I've had alot of this lying around for a while waiting for a project.
Clicked on the link, never could figure out how to get to the full write up.
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That is the type I use. 8 bucks at a craft store in the bead/wire section.
Yup. I've owned 4 IIRC. Managed to break 2 @ the cutter. Tryin to cut very thick sprue IIRC. At $8 and 10+ years of service I can let one break.
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Are those Adler Nest shoulder spikes?
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Hi Guys,
I'm planning to build a model kit,
not in a "let's make it all perfect" but more of "let's enjoy" way.
So, I don't plan to use any sandpaper which makes the process extremely boring.
However, I do want to cut the parts off the runner neatly and would like to hear you guys suggestion about cheaper way to do so instead of using Tamiya SHarp Pointed Side Cutter which costs around $30.
Thank you
Look for bead wire cutters. They usually run under $10 @ craft stores.
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Still, pretty cool looking.
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onezero generally doesn't do casting work. I assume he'll have one of his buddies like Blappy do it.
But we're talking vacc-forming which 1-0 does himself.
Can decide what airbrush kit to purchase
in The Workshop!
Posted
Iwata and check with Tom Grossman for deals.