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Kylwell

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Posts posted by Kylwell

  1. HI all

    Interesting thread. I picked up on it via the referrer stats collected by Alps Supplies (I own Alps Supplies), and I'd like to support some of what has been written, and correct some points too.

    1. Yes, the MD-5500 is still available, and is still manufactured.

    2. The only source outside Japan for the MD-5500 is Alps Supplies, and Alps Supplies is the only source of the English driver for these printers. Printers sourced from Japan will only have Japanese drivers, and Alps Supplies do not provide English drivers for printers that have not been purchased from us.

    3. While decent quality decals (Alps & Inkejet) can be produced from bitmap artwork, it is a major undertaking to do so. Any resizing will result in "jaggies". Vector artwork (CorelDraw, Illustrator, etc.) is quicker to produce, and easier to use.

    4. Very good quality decals can be produced on the Alps, provided the designer knows the limitations and can work within them. For example, while the screen for dithered colours is not very good (Preferable to print purely with spot colours), there are methods that can be used to force the printer to print with a finer screen and a higher resolution.

    5. Inkjets can't print white. It's fine using white decal paper, but what when you want white lettering 0.5mm high? Try cutting that out! Also, printing colours using a white undercoat gives an opaque decal, something an inkjet just can not do.

    Dang, cool. I'd read that the line had been discontinued and they were offering no support. Glad to hear otherwise. So what's shipping on one of these to the US and can you name any good US suppliers for the foil & inks?

  2. I got a handful of those "Super Space-Time Models", which are knockoffs of Arii 1/170 kits and Nichimo 1/200 kits, and decided to build the 1/170 VF-1A.

    The kit was a couple of per-cent smaller than the original, with paper decals instead of waterslide so options for decal use were limited. Fit of parts was a bit off in some places. For fun I just decided to build it stock, coating over the more-or-less accurate mustard brown metallic plastic it was made from. However, some of the plastic didn't want to take the white paint, even after pre-assembly washing, which was a pain because I just wanted to throw the thing together representative of its knockoff state, rather than modding it or improving it.

    The box had lots of fun Engrish on it:

    Were those those oddball Korean knock-off?

  3. wow, that's a lot of work on priming and fine sanding.

    can you use oil wash to panel line directly on the alclad? or do you need to clear coat first?

    and if you clear coat after panel line and decals, how does it impact the metallicness?

    I clear coated then oil washed it. The Stainless Steel gets a bit shinier with a gloss coat but that's about the only impact. I used Chrome, Polished Aluminum, Stainless Steel, and Steel. The Chrome all got a coat of clear Tamiya Red over the top.

    Yeah, way more work than I'd had planned. But once you start you canna go back (well, or at least I can't seem to).

  4. I looked around a bit and couldn't find the thread I saw it stated in. I know not to use a sharpie fine point, LOL. But where would I be able to find a good pen that won't fade or green? Thanks guys!

    Rapidographs, or technical pens, will give you the finest line but cost a bit more than a good Sakura felt tip. On the plus sid eyou can load them with what ever color ink you want. As you can see here a set will set you back a bit but should last far longer than anything else. Copic also makes some stunning fine line pens.

  5. Well, I finally did some modeling/machining today. When I get the time (and my Votoms books) from HLJ, BeNippon, I'm getting to work on my Bandai 1/20 Scope Dog RSC. It is an awesome kit and hyper articulated. I thought I'd upgrade it with better armament and details like photo etch and spring hoses. I remade the main camera "eye" from an old aluminum Tamiya gear. post-2518-1203802336_thumb.jpgpost-2518-1203802358_thumb.jpg

    The machine gun will have an upgraded longer barreled cannon, with a fancy muzzle brake I made up from an old piece of R/C car shock absorber. post-2518-1203802652_thumb.jpg (note the 45 degree angled exhaust) post-2518-1203802711_thumb.jpg The barrel is a Lion Roar Pak42 L/70 barrel (for a Jagdpanther funny enough HWR). For years I've had the Tamiya 1/35th scale 75mm brass ammo just waiting to be used. In 1/20th scale it looks like it's 35/40mm ammo so it's perfect. A few spent "rounds" on the model base will look more convincing. A couple on top of some magazine would be cool too.

    Have you seen the stuff Alder's Nest is making? Stunning stuff.

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