Kylwell

No I'll see if anybody has a built copy of John's and see if I can get some images from it.

3 Sheeps does great work. I got a few of their set for my Ma.K stuff.

That was next on my list

Specifically orthographic views of the Cat's Eye recon aircraft. Barring that I need some hi-rez images of the top, bottom & side of a built model so I can draw up orthographic views. Why I need to do this is still secret but no it doesn't involve a 1/48 model of it. It'd be best if they were taken with a telephoto lens to reduce perspective distortion as much as possible.

Let me know if anybody has one they can shoot for me.

Thanks

http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/shop/

Drafting, illustration, marking, etc.

Yes, Sakura makes a great pen line.

Not mine but way too awesome !

Missed the thread, eh? http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=28bbef12f3712366b3522cf032ff40df&showtopic=40157

Or get a hold of some Mr. Resin Surfacer or Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter than their usual line of primers. Also smells to high heaven.

Like these? http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10194234a2/20/2

It's tough to get Gunze here in the US also. Love airbrushing their paints but man is it tough to find. More so if you're trying to find something like their Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.

That booth you've got sounds awesome! You wouldn't have any problems going heavy with a rattle can using that thing, at 375 cfm.

BTW, cardboard? Damn, I thought it was at least made of plywood.

Cardboard. Oh but it's inexpensive to replace then, they say. Sure then why does it cost so friggen much to begin with?

I heard that Artograph ones are the largest hobby booths in the market; it could easily hold a Hasegawa 1/48 scale YF-19. They're also pretty expensive, at 500 USD and up.

Mine is 25in wide, 17in tall and 17in deep. Has a 375 cfm squirrel-cage blower, is made with heavy galvanized steel and was only $250. It makes the Artograph ones look like chintzy crap made of cardboard (which is what the Artograph ones are made of).

Don't know why the guy stopped selling them as they are so much more bang for the buck.

Mine's not dishwasher sized but it is roomy. Wish the fellow that made it was still building them

Oh yeah, Idolmaster version!

Me neither actually...

And here I thought you where going to bash it with a Koenigs Krote for the ultimate in koenigs!

Crap Sean, give us some beauty shots of that!

Resin can expand & contract much more than styrene depending on it's make up. Some are very temperature stable, others... not so much. I've found that Alclad's black enamel works best in that situation. Nice thing is you can get it in a big bottle.

I too have found the "the more you seal the better" with both the base surface and the final surface. Just don't matte coat it... it's an interesting effect but not what I was planning on (thought I'd grabbed the gloss coat)

Mr Surfacer or if you can find it Mr Resin Primer.

Oil washes are less problematic with Alclad I've found. Even then, if your Alclad doesn't have a strong clean surface to adhere to it'll make a mess. I've considered buying disposable cotton gloves for handing models to reduce the skin oil contamination.

You can also use a variety of sheens to change the look of the metal, from gloss to flat. Flat makes the metal look older, oxidized looking. Semi-gloss for worn bits. The only paints that have to a black (or dark color) are the polished ones, Polished Aluminum, Chrome, Stainless Steel and Airframe Aluminum.

No it won't. The catalytic reaction may soften it but it won't dissolve it like the plastic glues will.

Tenax 7R myself. Not sure who carries it online.

No, not bad @ all. You may be running into the limits of the printer resolution.