Kylwell

On 6/2/2017 at 11:14 PM, Lt. Z0mBe said:

Finally finished this one!  I am going to bed so I can take it to WF in the morning.

Comments and criticisms welcome.  (Yes, I know I need a photo booth )

Kenny

And congrats on your win!

Well you should as it's the largest Scifi/Fantasy/Horror scale modeling how in on the continent. Some amazing stuff shows up both in the contest room and from dealers. As soon as I get them downloaded I'll post some images.

Limited releases, yes. Licensed, not so much. 2 days instead of one. Model contest along with vendors, How-To classes, presentations, and special displays.

Funny thing is the Kentucky one got started because of Wonder Festival in Japan. Hence the similarity,

As a note, it's next week https://wonderfest.com/

Wonderfest, once a year in Louisville Kentucky. Wonder Festival, twice a year in Japan.

Now, how do we educate the rest of the board?

Just drives me nuts hearing people chat about X model that was available @ Summer Wonderfest, when they mean Wonder Festival.

Tamiya clear coats are a synthetic lacquer which while safe to use on acrylics can re-activate solvent based enamels.

On 4/21/2017 at 2:28 AM, arbit said:

The mysteries of paint properties...

That's why I have a life-long fear of painting. 

If worse comes to worse... strip it and do it over again.

On 4/18/2017 at 7:33 PM, MechTech said:

Arbit, I just prep and superglue them! Just have to watch the glue and gears if its that open gearbox.

That stinks NZEOD! I'm afraid of the same thing happening. I need to buy mostly new paints and I'm afraid if I switch to another brand (other than Tamiya) I'd have the same issue.

Those look great Thom! I'm so used to seeing them in green. - MT

Crap that shouldn't have happened? Had you thinned the clear coat by any chance?

On 4/17/2017 at 4:33 AM, arbit said:

I've attached the limit switches with styrene pegs. Very happy with the result. They take the hit very well.

Now I need to figure out how to anchor the motor case to the hull. I hope epoxy will be strong enough to hold it. 

Rough up the mating surfaces before you epoxy, it'll improve grip.

6 minutes ago, electric indigo said:

More for my 1/72 Air Force. I need to re-shoot this with more depth of field for a proper composite.

You can also look into focus stacking software. Makes for really sharp images of miniatures.

Interesting stuff https://geocraper.localinfo.jp/

I'm partial to such names as "The Giving Tree", "A Truth Untold", "Token of Displeasure", "Bob"

8 hours ago, Nyankodevice said:

Pengbuzz- those haters are idiots, PERIOD!! 

                  hope it haven't put you off modelmaking?!

 

Update!

pretty much done now...

might be a few places i missed... anyway...

 

 

Ah still think it needs some Chris Foss checkerboard somewhere 8D

On 2/14/2017 at 3:29 AM, chyll2 said:

@arbit

Looks like a bottle of Tamiya thinner, probably whatever he used to thinned down the XF-63 paint he used for pin wash. (XF are enamel paints)

No, they're acrylics like the rest of the line, just flat. Hence the "F".

9 hours ago, arbit said:

I need some. Cant find it. Looks amazing.

http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/products/carcare/compound/compound_9800.html?pid=09145

You can probably use Tamiya Fine or even Novus polishing compound. Just get the Fine or Extra-Fine stuff.

I'd look to accent the disparate pieces by differences in paint and weathering levels. Softly worn down checkerboard on an arm, deep green freshly painted on another. Then tie it all together with some dirt and dust.

On 1/23/2017 at 2:58 PM, electric indigo said:

I got the back blocked out, now I need some help: The film prop has a mesh area that would translate to 0.5 mm mesh width in scale. Can somebody point me to photoetch/military modeling supplies that would fit? 

TIA

http://www.am-works.com/products/tools/tw007-square-mesh-small-0-45mm-spacing/

9 hours ago, chyll2 said:

Seam line removal. Tried the CA glue this time. It was frustratingly harder to sand

CA, once fully cured, is hard as hell to sand. Files are generally better @ it. You can also try switching to a rubber impregnated CA like Gorilla Glue's Impact Tough line.

I use Gunze Mr. Surfacer or Alclad II gray primer. I seriously wanted to love the Vallejo stuff but it's not really a primer. Base color sure but not a primer.

I use Varathane to seal cardboard & paper. Heavy spray coat will soak in and seal it pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/Skunkmodels-Carrier-Defector-figures-SW-48020/dp/B005RJWCXM

I havent lost any parts ...yet... I just dissolve canopies in acetone...

oh crap...

It'd be a hell of an engineering task to make one in 1/72. Even 1/100 would be big. Both would need an internal structure to keep it from falling apart. Given the cost of the 1/350 Enterprise I'd say from $150 to $300.

There really isn't a finer option than Shapeways commercially. Their ultra-detail is about as good as it gets.

I use Evan's Design for my LEDs http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ he's got pre-wired pico size LEDs. He'll even custom run lengths and wire in what ever you need.