Ido
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*These pics are the raw model kit, not completed!*
A gift to all MW members, those pics can be used for the model section if you want.
This is the YS vf-17D that I got from Rainbow ten for 4800 yen (list price its 8000 yen)
Its an amazing little model, a lot of options like landing gear up/ down, vacum formed canopy or resin, Fastpacks (with missiles bays opened or closed), an impressive launch arm display base and even a bonus VFX (very small and detailed) character figure (it's called fleezia)
I like this model a lot, it really get the vf-17 lines really well.
HI resolution gallery (1024 x 768)
Low resolution gallery (800 x 600)
Enjoy it
I will do some pics to my Kayodo vf-17s battroid next.
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Vf-1d?
Vf-5000? (dynamite 7)
Vf-14? (M7)
Sv-52 doesn't exist
The Vf-22 anyways its my favorite.
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Its fantastic to hear more people getting into modelling again - it really is a dying art. Don't be discouraged - you can get all sorts of help here and on the internet.
Sorry to hear(read) something like this, modeleling is hard but I swear to never give up, even if sometimes its make me angry.
Eveyone one I've done, something goes wrong - and everytime I see them, I can pick out exactly what's wrong with each one of them.
Don't tell me, I get mad when something is wrong, especially with the paintjob.
Gloss pieces are also a problem for me. Humidity has a lot to do with how fast certain gloss-coats dry, and I'm always impatient, so I always end up touching it or playing with it before I should
No I don't use gloves most of the time, although I am trying to when I do remember to. I try to time the painting of major surfaces at the end of the day or night, so I will let the model dry un-disturbed overnight. It is a common problem for most of us, the glossy clear coats are softer to begin with - but I haven't really had too much need for glossy coats - I usually decal on a semi-gloss surface, it wears better.
I use lacquer based paints also to avoid long drying time I dont' thing its a drying time problem but next time I'll let it dry 4 hrs as I have readed somewhere. I'm soooo impatient, sure modeling help me for self-improving.
Do you decal on semi-gloss surface?(future+ compound or what?) It doesn't make the decal film more visible (silvering)? or its a gloss overcoat that makes the decal film less visible too? On your models the decal looks so painted-on and you even use semi-gloss overcoat too if I remember right.
I'd experiment on cheaper easier to obtain models before starting on the Macross items - unless they are plentiful and cheap where you are. You can get experience from anything - but it should be worth your time and important to you. Don't just build to experiment. My biggest learning experiences are from mistakes on precious models where I have little choice but to repair my screw up. If you don't care about it, then its too easy to drop it when you screw up and miss a learning opportunity.I prefer build something I care for, so I'm much more motivated to don't drop it, I give it up on the models when the errors seem really unfixable and don't even worth to try. The vf-1(not super or strike) However I made my mind to do it, normal vf-1 isn't that expensive anyways, I'm just waiting to find a clear coat I like.
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Misa in the second place before Ishtar and Minmei, nice doing Oba-san
I dislike M2 but I voted for Ishtar anyways.
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Hi Kazuki, thanks for the replies
Ans2) No gloves. I only handle them when fully dried so there'll be no prints of any kind. Lacquer dries really fast so there's no worries for me. If you do leave prints, it means it's not dried yet or you could have sweaty palms. I always wash my hands with soap & dry them completely before touching the pieces. Maybe you'll like to elaborate more.I don't know where the problem is, it happens on the clear gloss, it feel sticky and I can see dirt sticked on the paint, must be the clear coat that sucks, I'll try others lacquers clear gloss, GSI and modeler's don't look good to me they always look somewhat pourous, mr.super clear flat rocks anyway,
Ans4) It depends on what you want. If you want to learn preshading, I recommend you try it on a gundam since it has lots of space to work on. VF-1 is panel line crazy, not for preshade learning unless you're more experienced. (My strike is done with preshade)Ahh Preshading, I'll try that in the future, for the moment I will be glad just to finish a kit in a decent way.
Have you some bigger pic of that vf-1? It looks very nice.
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Well its almost a year that I entered the modeling world, I must say that its a lot hard of what I thought however after ruining two models (hasegawa f-16 and hasegawa yf-19) at least I made some progress.
You can skip that and go to the questions if you want.
Now I can glue togheter a part, apply putty, sand it to a smooth surface, when I did the f-16 I couldn't get rid of a single seam.
I learned how to airbrush and keep the panel lines, this is a improvement within the yf-19 build up.
I learned how correctely apply decals after training and a lot of tutorials beetweens the two models build up.
I learned how correctely do an Enamel/oil wash painting the yf-19
The main problem now is find a clear coat that I like, I switched form Hobby colors to mr.color and I love them, but when It comes to use the gloss clear coat for the decals its a mess, I'm gonna to try other different clear coats before start a new model.( yes I know future floor polish but I don't like use acrylics.)
I have still to learn how to work with clear parts, do the final assembling, coating and weathering, I hope it will be not to hard.
I wanted to ask something to the more experienced modelers here.
1- How many models did you screwed up before complete a decent model kit?
2- Do you always put gloves on when you handle painted pieces? Each time I touch a gloss surface with bare hands its become sticky and the dirt glue on it damn, its normal or I have corrosive hands? And I use only lacquers based paints...
3- How do you clean copleted models when they get dusty
4- Its good if the next try will be an hasegawa vf-1 or you suggest something simplier to do?
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Got anymore of those shot dude? Bigger ones would make great wallpapers.
What I didn't get with that is how come she is so fast and agile with a VF-1S. It's probably a VF-1X, but still!
The pic was ripped form the very Vfx-2 CD in its original size, don't know where to find a bigger one, however Photoshop can do miracles
Indeed her Valkyrie its a vf-1x as any vf-1 in vfx-2.
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Warning, Alchool used for thin the acrylic colors can damage the lacquer paint, at least if you use mr.color lacquers, for other lacquer colors I don't know.
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These are definitely smaller than the Banprestos.
There is also a pictorial of how the parts are made. You'll find the link at the bottom of the page.
Impressive! I will never be able to assemble such small model kit.
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1/48 is necessary only for small vf like the vf-1, the yf-19 and 21 dont need such a large scale IMO.
The fact those vf exist in that scale doesn't mean they will be nice as the vf-1 1/48, if the question was, what if yamato made those valks as good as the 1/48 vf-1?
I think that any person that would like to have variable toys of those valks will have them
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Nice toy, shouldn't be the tail be hairless like a rat one aniways?
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Includes gunpod, just this? Fastpacks, missiles?
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Thanks Drewsky for the wave 1/72 vf-17, perfect transaction as it was for a decal set time ago.
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Must be really a pain in the ass work with such small parts, impressive.
I wonder if they are really 1/144 because that means, smaller then the banprestos (about 1/120)
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Yeah its the same of max with red instead of blue.
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Hasegawa is still releasing M0 models, only the vf-0 with ghost booster is left but is planned to be the next after the sv-51 w twin boosters, Yamato planned to produce a 1/100 vf-0 cheap toy times ago but they changed their mind recently and they made a new 1/60 vf-0 with Perfect transformation make a lot of people happy. Not too bad.
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Seems, like HLj don't carry it anymore, its discontinued?
Amazon. jp have still it in stock?
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In the italian dub, is said to hikaru that Roy died in the hospital, don't know how much is correct.
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Hoping it will be cheaper but I would have to say, no. It has similar size dimensions as the 1/48 and designed in CAD and who ever designed the toy came in the project with a substantial price tag.
As far as the head lasers are concerned, maybe it was done for a reason or a big error which we have witnessed before. The toes seems correct and looking at some of the pics that Graham had posted, I hope Yamato treats us with a leg panel cover that would reveal the engine. I guess all the gimicks that we have been treated with the 1/48 could also find its way to the VF-0, air brakes, elevators but I doubt the radome will make an apperance here.
This is initial cad project, we saw the 1/100 vf-0 go under some changes in the latest version before it was deleted, so maybe some errors will be corrected later.
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CF VF-0D, VF-0A
Ivanov SV-51
Yellow submarine 1/144 VFX VF-17D nightmare
in Model kits
Posted
Nope, with my current skill Its already hard finish a plastic model kit, I need much more skills to build this little fellow smaller than my hand.
I buy garage kits when I find them at a very good price.