Ido

Still need to touch up the head, gunpod and wings then I'll glue the little antenna things before give the base color, it looks like the best thing.

Just another primer session then the fun start.

I like Mr. surfacer 1200, safe for plastic, light in color, airbrush greatly and lay down very smooth with leveling thinner.

Oh, well, nasty lesson - but its not too bad, dry.gif it forces me to perform a step I usually am too lazy to do anyways. You should polish the primer with 800grit sandpaper anyways regardless of finish, it creates a much smoother base for the paint. Now I have to sand down the roughness on the areas where I sprayed the primer at too high of a pressure - luckily and sands down easily, and creates a really nice surface without having to re-prime it.

OMG!

From the look of surface I suppose mr. retarder mild (or any other lacquer retarder like floquil) should help a lot in leaving a smooth surface, I had that grainy look when I airbrushed mr. surfacer 1000 with normal mr.color thinner.

I suggest to always use mr. retarder thinner or normal thinner with retarder for lacquers as they dry too fast generally, in fact I use mr.surfacer 1000 and 1200 only with mr. retarder thinner and the surface is always perfectly smooth.

Hope this help

Still limited edition, sigh.

I was going to file it down smooth, but I think I'll leave it raised like an attached panel for some interest, maybe add a few revit details to the ends.

Looks like a good Idea, the whole thing has a nice look.

Here what its missing, gunpod, head, arms, all glued and with putty applied.

Meanwhile I painted some other little parts, like the laser cannon, head visor and arms sensors/lights (what the hell they are???)

I tried your tip kazuki and washed the black part of the head with silver enamel mixed with flat base and it worked out, thanks.

Today I received a package from hobbylinc, I ordered the tenax plastic construction kit, it cames with this little toy, it should be more pratical then touch and flow applicator.

Too bad there isn't anything left to weld togheter with it.

Looks fantastic so far...

Great build up!  Yep, painting & decaling is the best part to come

333518[/snapback]

Its very nice for me hear this from you, I gived up on modeling some years ago but after seeing your vf-0s build-up I really wanted to return and build nice models as yours, thanks, this hobby really needs skilled ones who can transmit their passion to others.

We find some black and white valks in some last episodes

The Vf-1 on the right looks a lot like a banday 1/55 toy. LOL

The robot can use 4 arms?

We already saw Mars use SOL arms(episode 7) and Solar using Luna's arms (episode 15), it only left to see Luna use Mars arms.

The silly thing about Soluna is that is just a reversed Aquarion Mars.

I'll do some minor fixing on the little defects the primer its showing then I'll start assembling head, arms and gunpod.

The Intakes are a little crappy, I'll try a different approach next time.

Can't wait to start painting this baby.

My favorite ones are

Tenax 7r(welding): If you really needs strenght, it evaporate so quickly that it can't do a lot of damage.

Mr. cement S(welding type), not strong like tenax but its really easy to use, when I need precision and strenght.

Mr.cement (adhesive) Quite strong for an adhesive glue, but IMO the brush its too big for 1/72 kits, I plan to replace it with mr.cement s smaller brush.

Microweld(non toxic adhesive/welding): I use that on pre-painted part cause it is safe on mr.color paints, or where I need a very precise and clean application.

Micro krystal clear/ testor clear parts cement: for clear plastic parts

ps

Don't be scared by welding cement, I found it a lot safer then adhesive glues and with that you can be sure the parts will not split apart.

Call me a heretic, but these SHE kits don't do anything for me.

I love the Rettpu VF-4, you don't see that kit too often.

-i-

333041[/snapback]

Estetically not variable models look better, but if look at these model from a modeling point of view and you consider how complex these kits are and how hard make one of them plus the modeler skills they are wonderful

Applauses to S.H.E. and to who built them.

Looks great.

I wonder, will you add these nosecone details to this model? The balsa version didn't have them if I am right.

Notice: The SHE models its the VF-5000B, (I like the VF-5000 better then the vf-1 but I don't like SHE model cause it isn't very close to the artworks, it has an orrible fuselage and canopy.) What appears in M7 Dynamite is the vf-5000G (crappy looking legs and fastpacks plus some minor differences).

<- B

<- G

PS

Dynamite sucks bad as story but It doesn't have that M7's super robot anime taste and at least so you can enjoy the valks as battles are good.

The mass production Aquarion are nice, I hope Bandai will produce MG kits.

Its that a gerwalk?

PS:

I'm the only one who thinks episode 15 was pure crap?

http://page.freett.com/stzip/macross.htm

They really look nice made by a skilled modeler.

There was one in Macross Perfect Memory.  The color scheme is the traditional Japanese school girls' uniform.  They picture of the battroid is a chariacture with a school bag and shy pose.

332497[/snapback]

LOL, pics!

After the base coat I was very unhappy about the results, so I have dissasembled the gun again and strip the paint, I'll try to glue it better and do a better putty job, I'll also use only mr.color to avoid paint chipping.

Any suggestion about what type of glue use and putty?

300992[/snapback]

So what does the finished product look like?

332573[/snapback]

Hello, I'll finish that after the hase vf-1a I'm building, my improved skills should allow me to finish this I hope, I'm going to use tenax-7r to weld the two halves togheter as CA glue isn't enough strong, then I'll use polyester putty where needed.

I have also to scracht build the raised details on the gunpod cause I ruined them with CA debonder in the first attempt. Already got right size strips.

I'm also going to scracht-build the gunstrap with very thin styrene strips, they seems good for this and are very easy to work with them.

If you use a plastic welder correctly the melted plastic fill the seam, a lot of people don't even apply the putty cause there ins't any seam to fill, but its possible that the plastic have some depressions, here Mr. surfacer show them very well.

Its very important to propely clean the piece after sanding especially the panel lines, a wet used toothbrush its great for this.

Seriously, modeling paint applied lightly with an airbrush don't harm details but the sanding residues are awful.

Now the parts are clean and ready for mr. surfacer 1200 I suggest to use this on 1/72 valks cause its very detail friendly and its a lighter in colour then mr. surfacer 1000.

There were a big depression near the exhausts, I'm glad mr. surfcaer 500 did the job.

It looks like a great job, but without offend, the head position looks awful.

It's not finished yet so maybe they will include that feature.

All I know is I will be getting one. I wonder if the hand will be super posable hands or fixed posed where you can remove them? I want the wrists ball jointed with articulated fingers.

332481[/snapback]

Probably posable but they will better then the vf-1 hands cause they haven't to fold somewhere.

Looks a good idea.

Episode 12 and 13 were nice, good battles sequence, watch out from Aquarion Soluna! (Didn't they thought about use aquarion mars instead?)

Btw, why waste tons of conventional weapons like missles on the Kerubins? If they were effective they wouldn't have to use Aquarions in first place.

One of the bells are quite soft, you can see it deform under my finger pressure just holding it for sanding.  I hope this doesn't cause problems later on when I'm painting with flaking paint.  As long as I'm gentle, I should be able to bend it back into shape before I start priming.

331778[/snapback]

OMG, looks like soft vinyl, did you try to ask for a replacement?