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Ido

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Posts posted by Ido

  1. All ready to be glued together.

    Intakes...

    044.jpg

    Details

    045.jpg

    Engines...

    046.jpg

    The fitting test show a good fitting, my greatest fear its that paint or glue will end on the exhausts, I wish Hasegawa made them detachable, damn.... :(

    You make this look so easy. I have a hard time, taking my time to make things look right. Great Job so far.

    I'm surprised myself that nothing bad happened yet, the worst part will be canopy and clear parts I guess. I'l will mess up, don't worry I'm 99% sure it will happens. :angry:

  2. Thanks for the info..!  Looks like the VF-22S has a pair of internally mounted cannon, whereas the YF-21 has the gunpod mount?

    I'm sort of drawn to the YF, though...  A bit cleaner, with fewer bumps to model.  ;)

    On the less real-world side of things:  Where do the legs fit/hide on the 21/22S? I've seen it in Gerwalk mode, and it looks like they just 'magically' sprout from the bottom somewhere?

    ~Luke

    331188[/snapback]

    The yf-21 has external mounted gunpods, the vf-22 gunpod its store internally.

    The legs are stored retracted inside the fuselage under the two large panels you see in the bottom, its a unique feature of this valk, the arms are the fusulage sides.

    Most of the yf-21 anime magic its the front fuselage that become very short in battroid mode.

    Look at this perfect transformation model.

    http://park1.wakwak.com/~jasshy/yf21.html

  3. cmon Rob...you know what you have to do here...tempt us with the picssss

    got it !

    Hope you dont mind if I post it here dont you?

    331132[/snapback]

    Vf-0 proportion are so better then the vf-1, it looks nice in battroid mode, closer pics?

    No skull on the heatshield... NO! we don't want to put your crappy sticker on it! :lol:

  4. A close up showing the before and after of the sanding.  You'll notice that there isn't much Mr. Surfacer left after sanding.  It serves as a kind of marker to know how far I've sanded down to.  I think I might paint a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 over the seams again to make sure - I hate to find out that I didn't sand long enough when I start painting - plus since this will be white plane, I intend to skip the priming stage on the Hasegawa kit (however I will prime the resin boosters).

    Anyone with any tips on filling resin part gaps with crazy glue and baking soda - I've been told that's the easiest way to go for minor bubbles and such, but I've never actually done it before.  Any help or suggestions or links would be appreciated - do I add the baking soda to the crazy glue on the part, or pack the part with baking soda then add the crazy glue or do I mix up the mixture on a card somewhere to apply with a toothpick??  I'll experiment on the boosters and show pictures when I get to that stage - which is next...

    330983[/snapback]

    Bubbles can be fixed with mr.surfacer 500 I think, tamiya polyester putty or epoxy should be very good for resin gaps.

    You can also use Mr. base white 1000 as primer if you worry about the color.

  5. Worked out seams and pin marks

    042.jpg

    Empty space filled with epoxy putty

    039.jpg

    Airbrake sanded down a little to fit better with the fuselage. It isn't primed cause is already painted with mr.base white.

    040.jpg

    The Bird!

    037.jpg

    I have to fix some faults the primer showed me in the wings and main fuselage, then I will finish the interiors, after that I'll start with the legs/engines block.

    Really hope nothing bad happens

  6. Really that kodak digital camera sucks, my father fujifilm is way better. I think I'll use this for the next pics.

    Too bad that exhausts and cockpit are already sealed, so I got pics only for the seat and ehausts vents. Finally the eject handle its a bit more visible.

    post-2092-1127475393_thumb.jpg

    post-2092-1127475404_thumb.jpg

  7. Just a quick update.  More testing tomorrow (hopefully, if time allows) and some work on a new SV airframe...  All foam and fiberglass, to make it stronger, and save weight...  (Plus it will look much more scale.  Some shots of the CAD work have been posted on the RC-Groups thread.) 

    Also, I just finished the first couple episodes of the M+ OVA.  (My first Macross...  :blink:  )  Now I have to build a YF-21 after the SV-51.  (The 21 is just begging for being made into a flying model...  Nice simple airframe, with lots of wing.)

    ~Luke

    330788[/snapback]

    Great news, but what about a VF-22 instead of the YF-21, or both :p ? (nicer canopy) What about mind control system? :D

    yf-21-fighter.jpg <-YF-21

    vf-22s-fighter.jpg <-VF-22S

    Good luck for the tests!

  8. The box art for the VF-0A/s with Ghost looks fantastic, as does the completed mode.

    Graham

    330547[/snapback]

    Yeah, tenjim just rocks, everybody, buy his book!

    They should have built it wheels up though, would have looked much better IMO.

    I agree but Hasegawa valks doesn't have default landing gear up option, you must customize it to make it with them up so it will be silly to display the model with a not existing option.

    The vf-1 doesn't ever have the open canopy option. :(

    The stands are nice, I was thinking about a battroid CF next, that will be nice.

  9. hello I'm going to do a custom on My CF whenever I make a payment on it. I just scouted for tamiya supplies I need to customize my VF-1A Cannonfodder, but one thing I need to know do I have to apply a base color before I paint it with the colors I want to paint my CF with and should I use a clear coat after painting as a sealant?

    330401[/snapback]

    If are going to paint it with acrylics its better use a primer first, a clear coat help to protect the paintjob.

    However, I suggest to use Mr.color lacquers that are a lot tougher.

  10. There aren't straight rules for thinning and psi pressure, use others modelers tips as starting point, after some times that you airbrush you will understand a lot better how much you should thin it or what pressure use. I always check the paint thickness in the bottle (and test how much it covers the first time I use it) and then think about how much I should thin it, then check again the thickness in the cup with a toothpick.

    Always test it on a piece of paper before paint something!

  11. The legs are now together, again I used tube cement for strength and I used enough so that it oozed out the seems so I can sand them down later.  I also used the tape to keep the pieces together and the gear doors properly aligned.  Now remember to glue in the forward gear doors (the piece with the blue/red light) it required a bit of additional sanding around the edges to fit into the leg properly.

    330354[/snapback]

    What tube cement do you use? I tried the testor orange one with the yf-19 fuselage and the two halves opened after few handlings :blink: after that I only use liquid cement for big parts.

    The exhausts looks wonderful, I think i'll use the exhaust metalizer for the next valk, I used mr. metal color dark iron that looks very similar and I'm very pleased, the problem is that I need to polish and seal it. The steel metalizer IMO its too light, I prefer a darker shade.

    I heard nikon are really good cameras for details, I have a crappy kodak, always dark or blurry pics for small parts. :p

  12. Worked a little more on the bird, the backpack looked simple but I messed up with the glue, after sanding priming, sanding priming again ots okay, now I'm currently doing the wings, I messed up a little on one wing, but nothing serious.

    Just hope to don't run out of primer :D

  13. Don't give up on taking pics. They are the meat of your posts.

    328710[/snapback]

    I have to, sorry, crappy camera for this kind of stuff. Its just black and white pastel, nothing special aniways.

    Keep up the great work.  So are you condsidering lit up afterburners?

    328710[/snapback]

    No, I mean just watching in the the exhausts with a lamp...

    Quick test.. uhm I think I'll assemble the backpack too.

    036.jpg

  14. That's all for today

    The injection marks are a pain.

    327986[/snapback]

    They are a pain and while I appreciate your thoroughness, you'll never see those pin marks once it's together.

    327991[/snapback]

    I agree with Grayson, that's a bit of overkill. I applaud your thoroughness and enthusiasm, though. :)

    328042[/snapback]

    It may be overkill, IMO it isn't cause they aren't invisible, anyway I have to detail the exhaust, you can light up the inside and say, Holy crap!.

    I painted the inside with burnt iron, metalized the outside with mr. metal color dark iron and the turbines with mr. super metallic , super iron. The weathering was done with pastels, I don't even try to take a pics of the inside, it's already hard take a pic of the outside, sorry for the crappy pic.

    035.jpg

    The mr. metal colors paint the needs to be polished besides sealing are a pain in the ass to work with, must pick up some alclad metallizer before the next model. :blink:

    I will surely pick up steel, can you suggest me some other metal tones?

    The next step it's assemble the wings and fix the chest area mechanism.

    I was thinking about jet exhaust too, dark alliminum is darker then steel?

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