Ido

Based on teh fact that he's asking about the 19 pilot, that might not be his question..... I found that the pilot figure for the YF-19 was a little sketchy in where the arms and head actually mount... the joints are kinda undefined, and it takes some fidgeting to find his actual shoulders and neck... That, or I'm completely retarded.

You get it, the arms are a pain in the ass, however I tried to Pin them like resin figures with a 0,5mm rod and it look to work. I'll glue them and let you now if is a good choice.

How do you assemble those little 4 parts pilot in the hasegawa kits?

I'm building up a yf-19 but I have some doubt about the pilot.

There is a screw under the neck, never noticed it?

Macross Compendium doesn't report it.

yeah' I'd like to switch to Mr Color too, but the problem is that I can't find a supplier in Canda other than mail order, and all the expensive shipping, customs...

So until then, I'll stay with Tamiya and GunzeSangyo... but for priming, I'll use Mr Surfacer and Alclad II.

:-)

Sigh, I don't get pratically nothing here in my town in italy, the hobby shops carry few things at very high prices, the only decent paint that you can get here is tamiya acrylics but they came at 1.85€(2,27$) a bottle(10ml) and often the paint inside is ruined.

Never considered buyng from Rainbow ten? They can ship with airmail so the shipping costs aren't too high and its way faster then SAL, never had a problem with them. Mr.color paints are sold at 120yen a bottle.

But the fact that it spread awareness of the existance of the originals around the globe is undeniable.  No way they would enjoy the fan base in countries outside Japan without that.  Majority of current fans would not have known about Macross without it, a lot of toys would not have been exported or made, and so forth.

Yeah we wouldn't have the faboluos masterpieces and the fantastic matchbox's toys today, and we had to buy those crappy yamatos thanks Robotech!

His principal contributions were the general visual story structure created by his editing and the extremely important decision to keep the writing aimed at an intelligent adult audience, not for stupid children.

This alone let me understand how He don't have any Idea of what is talking about...

After the base coat I was very unhappy about the results, so I have dissasembled the gun again and strip the paint, I'll try to glue it better and do a better putty job, I'll also use only mr.color to avoid paint chipping.

Any suggestion about what type of glue use and putty?

It might be easier than I thought to recreate this. My first attempt was using Styrene sheets, and tried to roll it into a tube. That didn't work too well. I didn't know there were styrene tubes for sale. Silly me. How about the joints? There got to be something on hlj that I could use. I just don't know how to use hlj navigation very well. Thanks guys..

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist2.cgi?Ma...eCode=Sci&Dis=2

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist2.cgi?Ma...eCode=Sci&Dis=2

Sometimes acrylic paints take more then 2 weeks to dry, that's why I swiched to mr.color paints.

Keep it up.

Saw episode 7, finally no "special training" crap

more

More then pre-shading I should call it pre-weathering , I used flat black acrylic so I can wipe it off is something go wrong.

I also painted the very tip of the gun with lacquer burnt iron

Okay I finished with the putty and the primer, there are some seams near the grip that I couldn't get rid of cause the plastic split a little when the grip fold out, I think that with some pre assembling fix you can fix the problem, however nothing big, i'll hide them in the painting job...

I united the panel lines and scribed some rivets on the tip of the gun like in this artwork, they looks cool.

Now I'll do some little pre-shading and other things I'll show you later, ah, the tip of the gunpod isn't glued but just snap fitted.

Son, looks like you need THERMAFORM!

http://squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ9003

http://www.squadron.com/old/thermaform/thermaform.htm

Useful

It comes out on DVD on the the 5/28?

That does suck, being so close to the release...hopefully the R2 DVD's will be like the R2 release for the 0079 movies, subtitled with a nice box.

Really? How much should it cost?

What means "buff the kit with very fine polish"?(English isn't my main lenguage)

You mean using a polish compound like tamiya or airbrush again a second clear coat?

Oh yeah saw ep6. The girl having the orgasms is always eating food for some reason. First chocolate sticks, now icecreams.

I'm guessing Silvia isn't that different from Apollo

For the moment I'll just swab some putty on, sand and prime ultil I will be satisfied.

Sounds like you're having every thing go wrong that is possible

It's just that I'm idiot and I must learn patience. D'oh!

Yeah, I'm looking forward to this.

My gunstrap broke right at the tip, when I was trying to loop the ring through the gunpod hole. Never heard me curse so much before.

Well, lesson learned. But now I got a useless strap that can't hold the ring.

Is there some type of glue I can use, without melting the plastic?

Its the glue remover that melted plastic not the glue itself, damn.

The gunpod is already glued with CA glue so use that.

Some advices:

If you can use only mr.color paint, cuase they are really tough

Glue the part as best as possible and leave it cures, there is a lot of stress in the seams.

Sand a bit the grip in these points cause the rub and the paint will chip.

I'll probably sand these point and repaint them when I get some lacquer RLM-75.

I used CA glue and some ca remover to remove the residues, but I discovered that the CA remover can melt the gunpod plastic, so I damaged almost all the surface

I fixed the problem by covering the gunpod with mr.surfcaer 1000 and smoothing the surface with a sponge file 1000 grit, I also filled some gaps, perfect.

I'm using for the first time mr. dissolved putty, I must say its really nice stuff, it's like melted styrene and shrink much more less then mr. surfacer 500 or tamiya putty.

I suggest to fix the grip with some tape for simplify the things.

The gun grip is finished, so I started to assemble the gun, there is some putty cause I'm closing the ring holes, there is no need of them for my custom gunstrap

I dont' get really why is so glossy, damn, I'll give a shot of clear flat at this point

There is a white piece inside the gunpod that allow the gunpod to extend, i suggest to paint it in some metallic color cause is visible inside. I used a silver color.

I have some problem taking picture today...

However, I applied a dark gray oil wash and sealed it with semi-gloss lacquer... I wonder why one edge is very glossy, I hope its just the tick layer that take more time to dry completely, i'll wait some hours.

I'll take the pics this evening.