David Hingtgen

12 golds and nearly 200 bronzes, and that only counts for level 6? Sony must really ramp up the requirements as you go up. I'm at level 4, with only like 1/4 as many trophies.

Nov 1, officially. But with no sightings/reports yet, I'm curious. "1 month early" is the defacto standard lately, and they were actually produced many weeks ago. I wonder if they're actually being held at the distribution centers for Black Friday.

While we're (or at least I am) on the topic of MP seekers, more proof that I do actually make progress sometimes: PS---while there's been many MP-03 repaints into Thundercracker, I have yet to see an MP-07 made to look more G1-ish, except mine. Strange. Also, I can't imagine doing a full repaint, as the amount of sanding and scraping to get the parts back together with even a single thin layer of paint in small areas is insane. "Black over dark blue" covers pretty well, but even a super-quick "zap" of spray there prevented the shins from going back in. Sand sand sand, scrape scrape scrape. This mold has TIGHT clearances between parts. (plus, it relies HEAVILY on the flexibility of plastic---very evident if you watch the knees spread apart when you open the gear doors---any SLIGHT change screws things up) Now I just have to get the nerve to hack it all apart to do the sliding-hip-kibble mod. (I was planning on hacking, then painting the fins, but the weather caused a change in plans)

Oh yeah, forgot about that one.

At least a WS6 is "uncommon" plus desirable. I don't know of any Saturn that there's not a zillion of, and is there a following for any of them?

Just had a thought---will a VF-11D's heat shield still work as a toy? It's quite different than the B/C---bigger, bulkier, and "double-humped".

So where's US MP Skywarp? Haven't heard anything lately, and we're close to the release date.

Darn it, I was gonna start the thread---seems I'm an hour late. I can post a new pic though: Decal sheet in corner seems to be gold, not yellow though.

The line-art for the new pack looks 10x better than the models. They look "organic" and bulky, the drawing is mechanical and sleek.

Thicker sheets of steel is how locomotives are ballasted. (that, and pouring concrete into voids) Plus, keeping the fuel tank full----5000 gallons weighs quite a bit.

That's been the established VF-1 wing design for quite some time now. I believe even as of SDF:M the detail drawings showed such.

Chevy's new police car is not a G8, though close---it's a Holden Statesman. They are calling it the Caprice though. http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f70/bre...62/#post1861556

I have no idea what tugs use for ballast. (locomotives, yes)

Lead?

Aw ****, I edited your post instead of my own. (it happens with mod power---blah blah great responsibility) Sorry! Anyways: While that's true (I wouldn't expect JAL to be wrong) that's only because those are single-slotted flaps. Once you get to double (or more) slots, it's all fowler, all slotted. There's no other way to do it AFAIK, and they're not independently labeled. Yes, the upper part is slotted, and the lower part is fowler. But the lower part is also slotted and the upper part is also fowler. It'd be like labeling some lions as "feline" and noting others as "cats"---they're all both, and shouldn't be labeled differently.

I think that should be a "droop" aileron, not drop. Actually, it should be a slotted flaperon IMHO. (you know, do we ever see them move as ailerons at all? DYRL game maybe?) For the flaps---is that exactly how the original is written? Technically you don't have fowler flaps attached to "normal" flaps----the whole area is "fowler flaps", consisting of a primary and secondary (since these are double-slotted) flap segment.

I'm trying to think what the oldest import game I played from NCSX was. X-Men vs Street Fighter? Dark Stalkers?

It's not late 80's. It's 2000+. (*MAYBE* 1996+, but I doubt it--would have to start going squadron-by-squadron) It is basically a VF-154 plane, as only they had F-14A's that late/modified. VF-211 is possible.

The tails aren't canted out (they should be)---that could be screwing up the head-on view perception.

Revoltech Fraulein---Ranka, Sheryl, Grace, Klan... Heck, just make a new head using the Rei/Asuka plugsuit for Grace--I'd be happy.

Imports=NCSX.

The tailfins not folding flat is something I noticed right away---it's like a flaw in the design or something---like Yamato "forgot" how to get the fins to lie flat on top of each other---the 1/60 v1 does pretty well, the 1/48 does it great--but the v2 has like 10 degrees of "not flat" when the fins are folded---there needs to be an offset hinge to allow for one to lay on top of another FLAT. It's not there, or not enough. Regardless of boosters, the fins don't lay flat, and that's why they rub the antenna.

Depends on how it was printed. First try rubbing alcohol, then acetone. Point: A lot of times, if you can get it half/mostly off, but the rest just won't come---it's because the plastic surface is too rough, and the half you got off was the high points, and the half that won't come is in the "valleys" of the plastic--and it'll take a LOT of effort to get---you'll burnish the plastic before it'll come. In short---the smoother the surface, the easier/better it'll come off. Tampo over paint is usually easier to get off than tampo over bare plastic.

1. They're all like that AFAIK. Never heard of a fix. My YF-21's like that too (but even worse), and I tried everything, and never got them any less floppy. Gnats going by make them swing... ::edit:: Oh, you have a bit different problem. Mine all stay closed, but they flop around when opened. Anyways, you can probably guess the solution---clear nail polish along the edge of the doors. Works well on VF-1s to reduce door rattling. If you're really picky, you could try nail polish along the interior edge of the gear bay instead--same effect, but the door edges wouldn't be shiny. 2. Slowly and gently, force it in against the doors. It'll "set" over time and get easier with each transformation. The doors will always try to close it back up---the only thing really keeping it in place in battroid is the whole "crotch lock". I think I did do some sanding---the hinge part of the doors themselves IIRC (the top of the hinge as the plane sits on the ground, if the doors are opened). Try just a bit of that, combined with forcing the nose down, see if it'll improve to the point that it'll hold in place when locked in battroid. Don't expect it to hold in place unless FULLY transformed---it won't. 3. Never heard of that (but not surprised it's happened)---honestly don't know how you'd fix it, as that's riveted AFAIK. I can only suggest clear nail polish---somewhere somehow. Opening up the arms---I know I tried to open up the forearm for some reason, but never got the screw covers off. They're REALLY on there, I think they're super-glued. Frankly, you'll probably never get them off without totally destroying them. I've already got a crack/chip there from my attempts.

How'd you get the pins out? I plan to order replacement parts, but since they're almost as likely to break, I'd like to try to repair the originals.