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MR_Hyde

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Everything posted by MR_Hyde

  1. MR_Hyde

    1/48 VF-1J Max

    Thanks ae- that's exactly what I needed to hear. My Stealth Type is pretty solid and makes for a great Valk to pose. Truth be told, it is more durable and I think easier to transform than any of my V.2 1/60's.
  2. I'm wondering too- pretty much sitting on pins and needles. Honestly, the DN YF-19 is pretty damn good to me as far as articulation and transformation, my toy's joints are doing amazingly well. I do transform a lot. What I'd like to see is the mold lose a few pounds visually. The nose and main body just seem either a touch too short which makes it look fat in the neck or it's too fat in the neck making it look short. I'm not sure which one, but visually that's how it looks to me. Either way. . . I'll buy it. Hook, line, and sinker, yessiree.
  3. MR_Hyde

    1/48 VF-1J Max

    I think the deal is too good to pass up. Seeing as they have the 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru reduced as well- any surprises with that mold? I do swoop these around the house and hate floppy fighter modes.
  4. After playing with my VF-1J for a few days I can say that I am pretty amazed that everything is tight and goes together well. At this scale I didn't expect the quality. AWESOME job Bandai.
  5. MR_Hyde

    1/48 VF-1J Max

    Question- Any issues with this Valk? I have no idea what release it is. My Stealth Type is pretty close to perfect and I'm wondering if those improvements were also made to this Valk. I'd like to grab him at that price, maybe even Miria as well, as I have neither. Most of my Valks are 1/60 scale. Matter of fact, the Stealth Type is the only 1/48 I have. I just wasn't sure of their durability. Speaking of which, how are the 1/48's holding up? Thanks everyone.
  6. Hell yes I'd buy one. Like has been mentioned before, it's one of the better looking Valks, both in Battroid and Fighter mode. As much as I would love to have a VF-0D, the VF-4 is much more likely to happen. 2012 is a ripe opportunity for this Valk to make its grand appearance, though I'd much rather see it sooner.
  7. I never noticed the difference- how do you know that you are getting the proper version? I do like the coloration on the standard YF-19, though I always thought that the off-white color was too off-white. If they improved that color version, I'd most certainly get one. I'd like to get a new one as the joints on the DN are much improved and really lifted my opinion of the YF. I'm now thinking I might grab the BoP, not a huge fan of orange but I got to see one in the flesh and honestly, it looked pretty good.
  8. MR_Hyde

    VF-0D

    Me too, man, me too. If I can't have a 1/60th scale, I would certainly be fine with a Hi Metal version. Too bad it's not as likely as I had hoped.
  9. How are everyone's front fuselage paint apps holding up? Anyone used any kind of gloss coat to preserve it yet?
  10. MR_Hyde

    VF-0D

    Complete agreement- I thought the -0 and the -0D were excellent looking, the SV-51 was very unique among the Macross designs. Consider it marked. I hope this is true as I just got my first Hi-Metal VF and am REALLY happy with it. Time will tell, but for now I am really pleased with the sculpt and articulation.
  11. MR_Hyde

    VF-0D

    I searched for, but didn't see any threads that already existed but I'm sure this question has to have been asked before: Is there any chance that we could see a 1/60 VF-0D from Yamato? I just bought the Hasegawa 1/72 kit and literally, I think this is such a great looking plane, IMHO- better than the -0A. Anyways, it's Friday and I would rather be home playing with my Valk's.
  12. I've had mine for about 6 months and couldn't be happier. Joints are still tight and everything still looks good. I love the paint scheme. Excellent purchase! It's a better Valk than the original that Yamato put out.
  13. If they re-did the VF-25 I would get one. Right now, as it stands, I will only own Ozma as I am not satisfied enough with the quality to try to hunt down Alto or the others. As a fighter it looks good, chunky yes, but good. My issue is with the quality of the transformation. Both Gerwalk and Battroid modes are a J O K E. My VF-27, looks great in all poses. I'm not a fan of the stupidly large gun but it works. I have gloss coated the whole front end in hopes of preserving the paint. Without it, or damaged, it loses its "look". Every day I touch that awesome toy, I pray that the gloss coat holds up. Seriously. My other issue is Bandai's paint or quality. It's always so fragile. Tampo printing just doesn't bite well on super-glossy plastic. I think that is what the issue is. I don't have these issues with my Yamato Valks. Yes, I have to be careful with the shoulders on my early V.2's, but at least they pose incredibly well in addition to having a durable finish. They are toys- high priced ones- no matter what anyone else says. Hell, I love Macross Frontier. I hope to hell they do re-work or at least attempt to improve the VF-25's. Then I'd buy the rest of them. Macross is a cash-cow for both Yamato and Bandai. Otherwise they wouldn't keep feeding us re-painted and slightly updated molds, ala YF-19 Double Nuts. Which, by the way, is fantastic and there are improvements to over the original. Love it. Well worth the money. Hook, line, and sinker. That's why Bandai needs to work on the VF-25.
  14. I think this is looking fantastic, mickyg. Seriously- LOVE THE SCHEME YOU HAVE CHOSEN! I love any of the past Tomcat paint variations. I want to get one these [very] badly but my holdup is the decal/paint side of the equation. I have been scale modeling (aircraft & sci-fi) for a long time, so it isn't the idea of painting that scares me- it's the durability factor. I'm eager to see how the acrylics hold up and how many clear coats you use. I love using acrylics for a variety of reasons: less odor, easy clean-up, better "flat" than other mixes. My concern is just how well the acrylics bond to the plastic. Even on the injection molded plastic kits (polystyrene), acrylic is able to be rubbed off pretty easily. Which is why I use a couple of gloss or flat coats, so that it seals in both the paint and the weathering that I have applied. Normally this works pretty good, I'm just wondering how well it will hold up to transformations or play, because I do play and transform my Valks. What I'm wondering is how well lacquer would hold up. I have a ton of Gunze Mr. Color paints. When I have used it on polystyrene, it's been super hard and durable and I like the way it holds a wash. I'm DYING to weather my own Valk and not the half-ass crap job that Yamato charges an arm and a leg for. Plus, I'd love to see some dirty rivets. I'm watching your progress closely, mickyg- looking forward to seeing this completed! Btw- well done so far!
  15. Thanks for the input, Tking22 and eriku. I just ordered my first from Angolz, and as soon as the others pop up I'll likely be ordering them as well. I read your review eriku and it definitely helped to influence my decision- thanks.
  16. Question- (please consider this a mid-term report card for the VF 100 line) How's everyone's VF holding up? Increased floppiness? Cracked joints? Basically- I love my 1/60 V.2's but my shelf space is now at a premium. I do transform my Valk's and I have been lucky that I haven't had too many issues. I'm wondering how folks' 100's are holding up to use.
  17. I agree, especially the 1A max and 1D. I'm waiting for the TV 1A Mass Prod as well as the VF-11 and a low-vis 1S.
  18. MR_Hyde

    Latest custom.

    Awesome job. I love the subtle- I'm guessing- post-shading on the panel lines. Are you airbrushing extremely thinned wash over the washed panel lines and then coating it with a satin coat? The line wash keeps the orange from being big blotches of color. It's not too overdone like with the Weathered Yamato 1/60 V2's coming out. IMHO, they look awful. I would have had you do the weathering on the Valk's and then sold them. If you don't mind me asking, could you describe your process? It's just perfectly spot-on.
  19. Unless there has been some significant advancements, a jet engine requires air for combustion. The air enters the intake, is compressed, and fuel is injected into the mix and literally exploded out the rear. It would require another set of engines for use in space. Not sure how they could work that little issue out and keep the airframe size that a VF-1 has. We would also need some serious powerplant advancements. I don't know of any metal we have developed yet, that could withstand the repeated (and superfast) transformations that enable the fighter to get to mech mode. All the metals we have would buckle, shear, or bend and lose rigidity without significant reinforcements, further blowing the idea of a lithe fighter out of the air. Also, most metals wouldn't live up to the massive heat generated from the friction of entering the atmosphere so many times. It would end up as one decent sized, scorched lawn dart. Same with having a sophisticated enough computer system that can process all the commands by the human operator into electrohydraulic movements by the fighter/gerwalk/battroid. I can see the computer part happening...maybe. Maybe the metals fabrication in the future, but the powerplant issue is not going to happen. Not without intervention from a far-away race that has been monitoring the fact that we test nuclear bombs and is probably reading the broadcast of Hitler and the Olympics. I'd probably stay the hell away.
  20. Thanks! I went to the Customs website and apparently there is no fee.
  21. Alrighty. I am ordering my first Valk from Angolz. Question about the EMS shipping- it says I can state the value to avoid a customs penalty. What does that mean and how much will that cost? I assume the cost is based on the value of the item? Hence, by placing a low value on the item the customs cost would be minimal, if it gets inspected? Sorry to be a noob here but it has stopped me from pulling the trigger on the order. How do I phrase it when I place the order, "Please make value $20US?" All advice would be great and much appreciated. Thanks, Jon
  22. I decided to get Max first. I'm going to order the VF-1S from Over-Drive when it is back in stock. I wonder how long it takes for them to replenish inventory?
  23. ok, then. Given the fact that the pre- VF-1D Valk's are having these issues, are the shoulders coming cracked in the box prior to initial posing or is this happening after the first few poses? I ask because I am fairly confident that I could fix the issue as addressed here on the forum. I have some money coming in and though I can solve the issue by purchasing the newer versions, I am drawn to the prices of the others. Over-Drive has Hikaru and Roy for 73.99US plus shipping. This would be my first EVER Valk purchase, aside from model kits.
  24. Even if Yamato removed the knurling, from what I have heard the diameter of the pin may still be too large. What about finding a suitable alternative to the pin, perhaps slightly smaller? Stores that sell model railroad supplies stock various sizes of metal rod, ranging from aluminum to brass and also steel. With a digital caliper someone could find something slightly smaller that might resist future hinge cracking. Also, what about melting sprue plastic and putting it on the cracks that have appeared in the hinges? Melt it, apply it to the crack and then brush a layer of superglue over the top. The hot plastic should bond to the plastic of the hinge, the superglue would harden over the top and could provide a stronger bond, thus resisting repetitive transformations and holding together much better than just a single superglue application.
  25. When I remove the part from the sprue, I try to clip it as close as I can. Once it is clipped, I take a Squadron Tri-Grit sanding stick and sand it down until it is flat using the coarse and fine grits. Then, I rub a little water or spit on the part and use the polishing area of the sanding stick to polish the nub to almost nothing. The cool thing is that wet sanding it down like that virtually eliminates being able to see where the nub was. It takes time, but in many cases by sanding that nub down to nothing means many of the parts fit together better. If you can't get the Squadron Tri-Grit stick you can get one very similar in the lady's manicure dept of the local drugstore.
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