Jump to content

Urashiman

Members
  • Posts

    343
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Urashiman

  1. 1 hour ago, arbit said:

    Thanks Urashiman.  But as I said I don't have these calibration issues.  Its just print and go with the Elegoo.   I achieved this because, I use only factory settings and manufacturer settings. and I use only the same brand resin with my brand printer, because I assume they have been factory tested.

    The calibration thing is, because after printing, I take apart the lift base and clean out the resin from every piece. So I have to level the lift base again. I do this to save isopropanol, an manually clean that thing. I carefully clean every piece after every print. Maybe I am crazy. Well, not maybe. I am definately crazy. Everything else is factory settings. :)

  2. 2 hours ago, electric indigo said:

    So is this getting like the inkjet printers where they throw the printer at you and then milk you with the material prices?

    The results look pretty promising anyway.

    Basically what @arbit says.

    PLUS:

    3D Printing is a super manual task and you have to look at so many different things. It feels like operating my 80s 24 needle printer. You print one page, it goes bad and you have to calibrate and clean out the printing heads and and and and and ... The technology for the large audience isn't too fool proof, as it is with general laser or ink jet printers nowadays. A lot of tweaking is needed to get proper results. It also depends on what kind of printer you have.

    Using an FDM printer properly is the easiest way of 3D printing and has a better success rate in the beginning than SLA printers. When it comes to useability and maintenance, an FDM printer is super easy to use. There is no smelly resin that you'll get hyper allergetic to (or even worse get cancer), but PLA or ABS filament which is heated up. An 1KG roll is 12-20€ each and will last depending on how much you print. The fun part about FDM is, that you have less waste and you need less other tools.

    The SLA printers on the other hand are rather complex to handle. Use gloves all the time, setup an UV light to cure your print. Cleaning your print from left over resin. Cleaning out the resin bay, calibrating the printer all the time. You need much more stuff to operate it. e.g.:

    - Gloves
    - Resin filters
    - Isopropanol Alcohol
    - Lot's of kitchenroll/paper towels
    - Face masks

    While the resin price is relatively stable and cheap, you have to invest in the above disposables as well, making it less cheap to print one model.

  3. 12 hours ago, MechTech said:

    Sorry, haven't been online in a couple days...

    Thank you everyone! I LOVE milling styrene. It's so easy to work with and bits last forever cutting it. I wish I could get 1/4" sheets. Evergreen doesn't reply to my emails - I've asked them. Gluing them together they are not as solid. It is what helps make this look easy - because its not! But fun when things come together.

    @arbit Great looking figures again! Especially the cockpit with Hikaru and MinMei.

    @wm cheng The extra work on your missiles was worth it, especially the Sidewinder rollerons. Stuff like that stands out and makes it all that more realistic. Great aircraft photos too - without backdrops.

    @derex3592 Your rigging looks very convincing and makes the ship all that more detailed too. The contrasting colors make the details pop!

    @Urashiman What printer did you end up getting? - MT

    An Anycubic Photon Mono 4K for a whopping 169€ :)

    There was a sale prior to the black friday deals, which was actually cheaper than the black friday deals.

  4. 27 minutes ago, arbit said:

    My two cents to help you out if you don't mind:

    Detaching from supports means your supports are not strong enough. If a part is in the 3cm height range, I would use 0.35-40 minimum tip diameter.  You don't need to use a lot of supports, but you need to anchor the piece with strong supports from the beginning.  For larger pieces, say 6cm height, I have had success with 0.5-0.6mm tip diameter.  So first you anchor with 4 or 5 strong supports then you can space them out so you don't have too many supports and ruin the piece.

    For the warping and wall diameter, I would say you need minimum 1mm thickness for the walls.  But as importantly, you need to orient the print so the walls build up vertically as much as possible, without too many steep angles.  You can get away with very thin thickness, but it has to be oriented vertically to succeed. So for example, if we take the nose cone, I would angle it nose down vertically, with a slight angle sloping upwards (somewhere between 45 - 70 degrees), and let the fuselage build up like a cone, with supports hidden underneath the nose cone.

    For the detaching of hollow objects, you might also have a vacuum effect causing problems.  You can research youtube how to deal with that. Basically you need to orient differently or add holes to stop the vaccum from forming.

    For the small parts, you have to orient them so that the thin parts build on themselves.  You will lose extremely minute details at this scale, but that's life.  For small figures in the 3cm height range, I need at least 0.2mm thickness for a detail to show.

    Hope that helps.  Please let me know how it goes.

    That is valuable information. I will try that on my next print :)

  5. Did some testprints on the VF-9 and VF-1P.

    Except for two parts on the VF-9 (the front gear box part and the front gear) everything else failed. It is getting twisted and warped and seems that it detached from the supporting struts.

    IMG_1470.jpg.0a1b8c4aec3ae0a7690f37afca0e47ab.jpg

    The panel lines turned out well, so they have a good size. I think I have two main issues:

    1. Wall thickness. I need do make the walls a bit thicker.

    2. Not enough 3D printing experience. I might need more supporting struts and better strut placement.

    What I found really interesting is, how small the VF-9 parts are. The VF-9 is really a small plane. The canopy and cockpit space are almost as big as on the VF-1P, but the rest is just super small. I like how the VF-1P nose looks. Even if the print failed, it still looks nice. I will use these fails to test color on them and which primer to use.

  6. 14 hours ago, derex3592 said:

    I gotta say that 1/72 Roy looks damn good. Just wonder how the kit quality is out of the box?.... 

    Check the video posted by @no3Ljm a bit earlier. It'll give you a good impression. The Roy Fokker version is just a decal swap variant. The Hikaru version has the A and S head, so maybe the fokker version just comes sans the A head.

    @pengbuzz We need to setup a pengbuzz charity paypal account, so people can get you money for hobby kits :)

     

  7. 2 hours ago, electric indigo said:

    Profile comparison w Hase

    ox6t38M.jpg

    If you switch the center fuselages, you could make a super slim & a phat variant.

    That is the 1/48 Hasegawa VF-1 in the bottom. The 1/72 Hasegawa VF-1 looks a bit different. Less bulky etc.

  8. 8 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

    UPDATE: since the fighters are inbound, I can squeeze a bit more detail in (now that I can put the 'cats on the top deck and as soon as its' finished, paint and button up the hangar deck and its' fighters):.

    Did some revision on the fantail:

    101_0770.JPG.ce311d734fc74568be7aad2055e91cea.JPG101_0771.JPG.78c1e1bc3947286349c8eace1763956b.JPG

     

    I also added in missing sponsons and hangar rooms that protrude from the indie to the outside:

    101_0772.JPG.644d780463f3e903255e6725c7552d01.JPG101_0773.JPG.68ccf7e0598126a6830c6add79720a14.JPG

     

    I also corrected the crane area (working on rebuilding the crane), as well as adding the diagonal bracing:

    101_0774.JPG.2e2d6fa969231458be410d6e0166b15f.JPG101_0776.JPG.3032d311899bdf1d467223b933e0e014.JPG

    Aside from detail pics taken during 1974-ish ( circa 1972-1976), Detail and Scale has also been an invaluable resource to me!

    Stay tuned folks... project underway...

    Nice man!

  9. On 11/13/2022 at 1:23 AM, Thom said:

    @Urashiman, did the kit come with all those clamps?!:p Just kidding. It is sure to go together nice for you.

    Hahaha - that would have been great! There is no way you ever have enough clamps!

    So, I was priming that RX-78 yesterday evening with a rattle spray can primer from Citadel. Corax White! I will start to brush paint it with acrylics today evening.

    rx-78_002.jpeg.39eda4ca936b66430a6649bb933aa9a6.jpeg

    rx-78_001.jpeg.583bb553410ead72a235d0a0c491f93a.jpeg

    I am way too lazy to sand all those seams. I tried to sand them, but they are super big. One probably can make a good model from that kit, but I don't care. hahahaha. It is not a MG RX-78, and I want to use my "motivation" to continue on that F-5B I still have unfinished on my bench.

     

    Edit:

    Some F-14 preshading happened today, and I love my new airbrush. No more "burping" and uncontrolled splattering. It was a good idea to get new ones.

    IMG_7190.JPG.2e1820bf0d8cd9fdaac98e7456807c28.JPG

    IMG_7191.JPG.72abb3fa0d9144a21ad31a9865af733c.JPG

  10. I was a bit bored today, so I grabbed a kit, which a friend brought me, during a Japan visit. A re-issue of the original bandai 1980 RX-78 kit. Gonna be a quick in between build.

    C168514F-72E7-439E-AA1D-72120A38F763.jpeg.66139b7413ab34d341f6de9e066537d3.jpeg

    The kit is okay, for a 1980s kit, but by today’s standards, it is super bad. I had to use clamps all the time to make sure stuff isn’t taking itself apart.

    here are some progress pictures.

    80C7E0A8-1156-4611-B261-69ECF3E26F40.jpeg.71ac584c2a2ab35ccd9a88005d1d7543.jpeg


    94A86E11-BF91-439C-8C2F-8C6CB05A001B.jpeg.a0989499a2790da303568c850906e477.jpeg

    2D962CC8-DB39-4746-9E86-1D20E849796E.jpeg.d0acd55dca76712a9daef0b413da1c4b.jpeg

    3F649776-8D8C-4661-BC06-21F9F83A6871.jpeg.d3e835032f70bd23abfde6a3827d873b.jpeg

    15AFA484-1C23-4D96-B8FF-A722780F7216.jpeg.d624fbf86db8402d864f1c72b7e98634.jpeg

    It‘ll be primed tomorrow and then be painted with acrylics.

  11. 21 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

    No, it's okay. I'm the one who should apologize. I flew off the handle when I should have just read what you said without assuming anything was inferred. Please forgive my attitude. :(

    On that note: a family friend talked with my wife and pulled some strings for her to get me a couple of gifts for this Christmas: Photoshop CS5 Extended and a Digital Camera with an f-stop setting (Kodak Easyshare Z650), so by the time my new CVN-65 carrier is finished, I'll be able to photograph it properly and do all the stuff you suggested in Photoshop (finally!). :D

    No worries - and man, that is awesome!

  12. @Thom Thanks a lot! Paint masks ... I haven't seen them around here in Germany. Would have to order them and ship them across the world.

    @MechTech Thanks! I have the humbrol latex stuff, and used it on my VF-22. Ripped a bit of the paintjob with it. Next time I will peel more carefully. Hahaha!

    @wm cheng I actually had that with any primer and any color, no way how and with what I mask it. It always rips if not peeled slowly and with care. I actually saw the Alclad primer in one of your old build threads and wanted to give it a try. :) For testing I sprayed some left over sprues and then used thinned revell email color over it. It worked so far. I know that the tamiya primer is really bad with the revell email colors. So tamiya spray can primer and acrylics works super good. The revell primer is super bad, but once you get it to stick to your model, it works good with any lacquer color. I had some humbrol primer for lacquer colors year ago. That was good stuff. I used mr. color lacquers on my SV-51 nora and totally wrecked that model. The color started to get britle and fall off, and as I lost a wing during a move, I just canned it and purchased a new kit (which still is in queue). If you want to mix lacquer and acrylics, always follow the rules:
    1. Give it time to cure.
    2. Never lacquer over acrylics, the lacquer thinner easily melts away acrylics even when cured.
    3. Acrylic colors over lacquer colors work, but not acrylic colors over lacquer primer. It'll just fall off, or will brush off easily.
    4. Lacquer colors can work over acrylic primer if you apply the first two coats super careful and thin.

    At least this is my experience.

    As for pre-thinned lacquer colors, the revell airbrush ones are really crazy. I got the blue for my old YF-21 (build around 2003-2004ish). That color sticks like crazy. You don't even need to prime or seal.

     

  13. @wm cheng yeah, the gwh f-14 is super awesome so far. I like it. The detail is awesome and it fits together nicely. The Finemolds F-14 has more open panel options though and I found the finemolds one to have better panel accuracy in general. I am going to use Hasegawa Macross Zero F-14 decals (purchased them as a reproduction from some Chinese company).

    I got the clips off of eBay. They are like 8-10€ish.

    Now on to my favourite task (not). Canopy masking!

    6D51858A-B5B8-4685-9D4B-1BEFFD53309B.jpeg.c555e53482cd397c7fff9956fb3a0322.jpeg
    8AB907B8-CBC5-482C-8B06-AFA1BFB4904B.jpeg.964b9fa48a34118bfae9a2b7ea4768e5.jpeg

    DD068E6E-12D3-4B6A-B19D-0B2D101FC260.jpeg.34b0e44948d4b500a1908ccc5e993c8b.jpeg

    And after that, it was prime time!

    This is my first time using Alclad II lacquer primer. This stuff is really rising the game compared to any other lacquer primer I used before. 100% recommended for anyone still using lacquer paint.

    640401BC-6870-401F-A558-46EB6A4C93F7.jpeg.2b5fa2bf74f177f40c628daae495b459.jpeg

  14. On 11/6/2022 at 6:44 AM, Rock said:

    A few corrections left. Mainly on the visor for the RIO and the rubberized coating on the forward pilot's helmet. Those mishaps fixed results in the base colors being done. Next on to shading, detailing, washes- the fun parts! Before the next kitty, I'll need to invest in some new even finer brushes.

    20221106_002340.jpg

    Nice F-14 man :)

  15. On 11/3/2022 at 3:16 AM, Goodman Models said:

    Before giving up on your airbrush try using a bit of beeswax on the threads of each connection - it really helped me seal up brush.

    I did not throw it away, but it is way beyond it's operation time. I got a cheap BD130 now and the revell pro.

  16. Some progress on my GWH F-14.

    I‘d recommend those clamps to everyone. Really great helper.

    C85053FF-B0A0-4359-890C-6D92F3B61FB8.jpeg.4c22e2b78a479b934908887df9e43524.jpeg

    2 hours later:

    AB39475F-161A-4180-802F-E94A9EB258C2.jpeg.9a7634cbbabd52b000f1b49c0d1e99ac.jpeg

    canopy sits without glue, still need to add seats and the pilots.

     

    i also stared to prime my vf-19, but my 20+ years old airbrush is leaking air on almost every seal, causing ugly drops to splash all over my kit. Had to sand down the primer again. Ordered two new airbrushes and will wait for them to arrive before doing any further paintjobs.

×
×
  • Create New...