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Posts posted by Urashiman

  1. 2 hours ago, MechTech said:

    @VertexNebula Welcome aboard! I know you said you had fit issues. It looks like there is a lot of glue oozing out of the joints. You can use baking soda as an accelerator and filler too if it comes down to that.  I'm guessing that's a 1/265th gaming piece?

    @Urashiman WOW! you get extra bonus points for not only being a good dad AND passing on the hobby, but for completing THREE kits! That's about one a month so far. Can he keep up!?😁 - MT

    4 now. The SU-47, the VF-1 the Horten Ho 229 and the Soyuz :S

  2. 17 hours ago, Thom said:

    @VertexNebula Welcome! And a nice intro. Looks like a nice little kit, fitment notwithstanding. Any idea of scale?

    @pengbuzz Those will be in a shuttle flight heading out Monday from Caprica. They had a little too much RnR, so treat them gently. And by 'gently' I mean Drill Sergeant Gently! whip them into fine shape! And if you use the one with the bust one will be in even finer shape!

    @Urashiman Your Padewan has a nice eye for a pretty plane. And gray is good. I looked around a came actoss this...


    Or this...


    Glad he (and you) are having fun with it!



    Haha great!


    In Soviet Russia, model kit builds you!

    Another kit finished today. My kid was eyeing this stone age kit. So we build it:


    The mold must be from the 70s or something. It had horrible quality. My kid wasn‘t happy with the build and complained.

    Anyway… clamps.IMG_6526.jpeg.26e5a81ab3bb937a340615cc780462bc.jpeg


    After around an hour it was at this stage.


    Even with sanding it didn’t look too good. It probably would have needed much more love, I guess.

    have a look at the instructions :)



    Here the result without paint.


    Then I blasted. Primer and then revell white 04, thinned with mr. Color levelling thinner. I have found that when you mix revell enamel colors with the levelling thinner, they dry much quicker ~ 20-30min till you can touch it and leave no fingerprints.


    I used the chinese not strings attached airbrush again. Then I masked and added more color.


    Then some more paint with normal paint brush and done.


    Total time invested: ~2.5h

    no need for decals, the kit has none provided. Hahahaha 

  3. Okay, time for some workbench stuff again.

    I went to the hobby shop with the kid, and he found something that I had actually build in the mid 90s, but it was destroyed in the annual „strap ugly kits to fireworks to make space for new kits“ family ritual. 
    My kid absolutely wanted this thing. I was reluctant to get it but hey. The kid demands, the kid receives.

    A Revell 1/72 Horton Go 229


    I am pretty sure the updated the mold, because I found way better quality on this kit than I actually remember from building this thing the first time.


    The clamps were of good use again.



    I used the Chinese battery driven air brush again. It‘s so fast to color things with it. Then canopy masking and primer.


    Prior to priming this, the kid wanted it to have the classic red 13 camo pattern, but he liked the light grey of the primer so much, that he declared the plane to be finished.


    Build time: ~2hours.

    Man, third kit already done this year! I‘m on fire! Hahhaha

    I have to finish my other kits and the VF-9 project some day. The kid is currently eating time. :)

  4. 14 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

    Yeah; it's this, only in white and formerly a "coast guard" helo:


    It's about 1/32 scale ( measures 14 inches from nose to tail); I found what was left of it at an antique mall, and with the main upper being diecast, I should be able to kitbash it without the blasted thing falling apart on me.

    (I hope.)

    I plan on doing a limited rear command center for Dom (won't be able to see much from the front), and a full front cockpit for Stringfellow Hawke. Undecided about doing a Caitlin O'Shannessy figure as of yet (kind of on the fence about that).

    Weapons: may do them as magnetic "plug-ins" that fit onto the exterior. Neodymiums should work.

    This is something to take my mind off of things, as I had yet another tragedy amongst my models and figures: my custom scratchbuilt 1/6 Christopher Reeve Superman figure got knocked off the shelf (loud "boom box on wheels" came by on the street and vibrated everything badly) and the figure shattered (total loss) and the hand-sewn outfit was melted (landed on the radiator).

    (That one hurt. )

    I'm not going to try rebuilding it, as we have other issues cropping up, and my sculpting skills for faces are no longer what they once were. Also wrestling with Ebay and an idiot seller who's trying to rook us on an item. So, I'll just continue with this.

    Stay tuned.

    Dude ... you get no rest. But some day you'll run out of bad luck. :)


    Let's see how that Airwolf will look in the end!

  5. This morning the kid told me, that the plane should be black, like on the box. So that is what I did.

    masked the canopy and made it black.



    But that is not all. The kid demanded more, and as he always plays with my old VF-1 Valks, I thought it would be a good idea to build one for him.

    so that is what we did.


    Everyone… buy clamps!



    And it was a good opportunity to test the Chinese beauty airbrush thing.


    surprisingly, it did the job. Took a while for me to adapt to the single action. I am used to double action for 25 years now. But it worked out well!



    one of the macross m3 milia pilots I printed added as pilot. The kid chose the colors.

    coloring time and build up.







    and done.


    total build time: ~5.5hours. I finished two kits in 2 days on one weekend. Haven’t done that in a while.

    the kid doesn’t want me to add any of the decals, so we are fine with the colors he wanted. The Chinese air brush seems okay so far. Lets see how long it lasts.

    this was mostly a vanilla build, no putty and only little sanding. The Hasegawa VF-1 mold really seems to be degrading much. The ejection holes have mold ridges as well as a lot of the pieces. Stuff you see on older kits most of the time. Remembering my first Hasegawa VF-1 in 2002, that was a more „seamless“ experience. And the other one from 2010 was degraded already. This one (build today) has the 40th sticker. The degradation is crazy. I think, with some love, the Hasegawa VF-1s can be nice, but I‘d recommend the Plamax one now, which has a way better build experience now, and modern tooling.

    I still have one VF-1, one VF-1 super/strike and one VT-1 in the basement to build. Next time I will invest more time to make a decent build and will craft some extra parts via CAD and 3D printing. :)

  6. @MechTech hahahahahha yeah.


    workbench stuff. Kid wanted to build something and decided for this:

    Trumpeter Su-47 1/144. I got this years ago for 1,57€.  



    fun little kit. Build up in less than an hour. The kit will not be painted. My kid doesn’t care hahaha

  7. I felt a little daring and decided to purchase that 17.54€ airbrush thingy from temu. It is only 17.54€, so if it is not good, it won’t hurt. I purchased something advertised as a chargeable no wires attached air brush for modelling purposes. What I got was this:


    beauty airbrush system. Maybe because it is beautiful? Uhmm… no


    at least it is black.


    it has three cups, small, mid and large and it is a low quality single action airbrush. As soon as this is switched on, it blasts.

    it has three modes. Off, low power and full power. Full power almost „blasts“ at 2bars. Low power is around 1bar.

    it‘ll probably be good for really thin color. I will give it a try later, but I won’t get my hopes up. Hahaha

  8. 11 hours ago, 505thAirborne said:

    Sorry for the quality of pics, it's either been raining, snow or today, it's super windy outside and my cameras are horrid with indoor lighting. 

    Well, here she is, my YF-23 Black Widow II. I have a little touch up to do on the landing gear/wheels but overall, I'm calling it done. B))












  9. 6 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

    Now everyone have a use for the Yang figure that came with the recent DX YF-19 non-Fast Pack and Fold Booster release since Hasegawa opted not to include(?) him. :spiteful:

    Was thinking the same here ... we need a Yang Neumann for the back.

    @arbit you got a new task :)



  10. On 2/1/2024 at 1:47 PM, derex3592 said:

    Well....the little brass breakup pattern stencils didn't turn out quiet as easy to use as they were in my head but I guess it looks ok... Dunno.. Still undecided if I wanna keep it or strip it off and do my freehand marbling method like I did on the subs.... The problem was keeping it flat on the complex curves and angles all over the plane. 



    I need these stencils too ... I have been searching the internet but no luck. Where do you have them from?

  11. 15 hours ago, Rock said:

    Started trying making blu tac snakes to mask the camo and quickly found that that was a waste of time and ruined my foundational efforts. Freehand it is relying of preshading techniques and thinned overcoats.

    Edit: cant attach pic it seems via mobile20240112_132821.jpg.96b95c9ab8d900554915c3e254c3e080.jpg

    Always feels weird to see it written down as "gray" and not "grey" haha :)

  12. On 12/15/2023 at 4:08 PM, The Original Cobywan said:

    I've been using a non-destructive boolean modifier stack on the paneling until I feel it looks good enough for me.


    Ah - only saw this now. Boolean works a lot better in Blender than it does in 3DS. When I use boolean in 3DS it usually kills my meshes in some way or another, so I have to be super careful when going that route.


    And look at that print! Nice one - I bet the walls are a bit too thin. I had that with my VF-9 and had to redo the wall thickness on my meshes.

  13. 1 hour ago, Big s said:

    Yeah, the more I read it the more I’m confused by it


    I was thinking the same. I have a feeling it’s included, but the wording is super confusing 

    I looked up the kanjis. So, it has the stand, and the parts for the landing gear included. Nothing to worry about.

    machine translation is still bad when it comes to Japanese as much is read through context.

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