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BluprinT

Yamato 1/60 VF-11C replacement hinges. 3D Print?

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My 1/60 Yamato VF-11C shoulder/wing hinges have broken and i was curious if anyone else has had this problem and if there is a possible solution.  I have purchased shoulder replacements for the Yamato V2 VF-1 toys and i was hoping for a fix that is similar to this.  By design, this is one of my favorite toys, but unfortunately mine is broken.  I have not taken my VF-11B out to inspect it, but im hoping it does not have a similar issue.  Regardless, i would be happy buying two pairs if they can be made available.

pics of the damage

IMG_7405.JPG

IMG_7406.JPG

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I had already warned of cracking parts in the vf 11b 

so yes will hope someone can give us replacement parts

11crack.jpg.d92848c512e62de531d0c24ba1d92c4e.jpg

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Ouch, that looks pretty bad. I don't see that the screw surround of my 11C is cracked, just the actual hinge.  Either way, I hope there are some solutions...

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Hey guys, keep in mind that even if a modeler wish to help, he won't be able to help until you completely disassemble the broken part and take pictures / measurements / or send the broken part to him. Once you make these steps, modeling the part should be a piece of cake :)

 

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Thank you for the follow up. I will work on disassembling the wing hinges and measure out the dimensions as soon as I get a free weekend 

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I have a VF-11B, but i'm a bit worried to take him apart to measure those parts to 3D model. But if you guys can measure (preferably with a digital caliper is you can?) and also take some photos of those parts i'll be glad to help :-)

 

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7 hours ago, BluprinT said:

Thank you for the follow up. I will work on disassembling the wing hinges and measure out the dimensions as soon as I get a free weekend 

Once you disassemble the hinge, that part looks eminently fixable without much fuss.  I recommend liquid plastic weld for ABS:  Apply to the crack with the bottle cap's brush (touch the saturated brush's tip to the split and let capillary action carry it in); clamp the part with a clothes' pin or a any type of spring clamp (watch for molten plastic oozing out of the repair... a very good thing); let cure for at least 24 hours (36-48 would be even better); scrape/file/sand the "scar tissue" off the repair to clean it up; buff the repair area with the coarse surface of a fingernail polishing stick to restore the parts surface finish.  Done correctly, it will be hard to even tell the hing split in the first place.  But, by all means, meticulously measure every last nook and cranny of the hinge and record the dimensions on a 3 view sketch so that one of the 3D modelers among our forum members can generate a proper mesh file to upload to Shapeways.

 

Best of luck.

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great advise.  I can see that you have some experience in making some repairs.  I think your advise would be perfect for repairing a split, but unfortunately i am also missing a small piece on my hinge (First pic, body side hinge).  

 

Any advise on disassembling this hinge?  im not sure what the best way to remove the metal rods holding the hinge to the wing root and the body together without damaging the part.

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  • Unscrew the whole hinge assembly from the toy.
  • Prop the hinge assembly, perpendicularly, on the jaws of a small vise, or small pliers if that's all you have.  The trick is to rest the plastic on the tool and leave a gap for the pin to exit the assembly.
  • Use a metal rod, or small hex key, of a smaller diameter than the hinge pin to push the pin out of the hinge.  Push slowly with steady pressure -- if necessary, use a hammer or anything that can be used as a hammer, to tap on the end of the rod-tool while it sits squarely on the hinge pin -- until it starts to slide out; push it at least half way out and then pull with a pair of needle nose pliers if desired.  Make sure to take your time and push straight down into the hinge pin to avoid damaging the plastic.

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I've been asked to make one of these, and I can, but as stated, I would need a working one so that I can replicate the design, and assess for a better one. I can take either side, too, I just need a good one to work on, so that I can get proper measurements with a good digital caliper.

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