Ways to Prevent Paint Scratches??

[DarrinG]

If there 2 parts of a kit that are prone to rub and scratch paint off one another - what are some possible solutions?

I was thinking of painting the one part ( that is much less visible ) with a few coats of rubber cement.

So when the painted part comes in contact with it the cement would provide a smoother more slippery surface. But would that wear off?

Other ideas?

[grapetang]

If the part isn't molded in color, sand it down and repaint until the parts don't rub?

Use tougher paint, like lacquers? still subject to scratching...

Overcoat/clearcoat with lacquers or clear/colored nail polish? will still scratch.

Use epoxy paint?

Mold the part in tougher, colored plastic? Dye it?

While rubber cement might work, it probably won't stay. Also test somewhere inconspicuous to make sure it doesn't mar your existing paint (especially if acrylic) or melt the plastic. Older formulas used acetone and chemicals that dissolve styrene; newer ones use ammonia which could remove acrylic paint. Also test the lacquer paints and clearcoats.

Are these parts in direct contact with each other like a joint, or these parts separate that occasionally connect/click/snap together? If the latter and it's not load-bearing, you can sand down the tab and/or enlarge the hole/slot.

I'd be curious to hear other people's solutions as well. Good luck!

[MechTech]

This is an age old problem, especially for Gunpla kits. Just holding painted parts will rub the paint off. Like Grapetang said about molded in color. That's what I try to do with all my kits and then just add a slight bit of similar color to simulate dirt/wear then clear coat. The clear coat will still eventually rub off though. Putting on a heavier coat in an area may work - if it doesn't show easily.

Nail polish can work too - but will also look different. In fact, an old trick is nail polish can be built up to make new canopies!

Once again if the parts aren't seen too easily, a clear piece of plastic may protect the parts. Maybe just small enough to keep the paint from rubbing.

There are epoxy paints, but that's like using a sword to butter your toast! They too can be tough to work with and potentiall lumpy if not used right.

For regular paints, others have said Gunze's is best for acrylics, and then like Grpaetang said about lacquers. I hope that helps! - MT

[Vifam7]

Try different brands of paint. I've noticed that Vallejo acrylics are pretty tough.

Also try enamel paints. I've found enamel paints to be much tougher than acrylic or lacquer.

[DarrinG]

The parts are not always in contact, just could be pretty often with normal posing.

I'm pretty far into it with Tamiya acrylics - so I will do some small tests with rubber cement and clear nail polish.

Will report back . . . thx for the tips . . .

[Valkyrie addict]

If the part does not require friction to stay in place or close a gap, sand it down to allow clearance for the extra layer of paint.

Edited January 15, 2014 by Valkyrie addict

[DarrinG]

The 2 parts in question are an upper leg / quad in an armored hip well.

So if you lift the leg out or forward, the leg can come in contact with the back, or inside, of the armored plate.

That is why I have the option of coating the inner rim of the armor (that is out of sight mostly) with something like nail polish or rubber cement . . .

[nobbyxr8]

from what I`ve found over the years on my MG Gundams is that lacquer paints (I use Mr color) with a good topcoat (Mr Topcoat) are normally hard wearing enough not to scratch. or for the really bad areas using a wood floor topcoat first (future,long life) doing a dip and letting it harden for a number of days before putting on a flat cost if thats the look you are going for will. I`ve used it a few times and long life in my case dry rock hard and haven`t scratched yet.

[CrazyDude]

I topcoat my wargaming minis with the same topcoat as used on motor vehicles, very tough and they get a LOT of handling.

Modellers(Japan) also repackaged it.