visrey Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 hi all. i am a new member here but has been visiting this forum on and off for more than a year. i am planning to build the hasegawa vf1s and vf0s battroids. unfortunately, i dont have an airbrush nor airbrushing skills. what is your opinion/suggestions if i just use gundam paint markers on those models? thanks for any help. -visrey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 (edited) Do you mean to use the markers for the pannel lines or to paint the entire kit? I would think they are o.k. for the pannel lines (although to stark for my tastes), but if you're thinking of using them on the entire kit I would think that you may run into problems getting an even layer. Why not use spray cans and masking tape for the base coats and large areas? Or there is my personal pref. Brush painting If you go this route though you may want to practice on a few kits that are not so special to you. And remember, for brush painting with no streaks thin your paint so that it is very thin (almost like water) and apply in thin alternating coats (first coat top to bottom, second coat side to side) In my experience model building is an excercise in patience. Whenever I've tried to take a short cut I've always ended up with a lot more work because of something that went wrong! Good luck, and welcome! Edited May 19, 2006 by Chas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
visrey Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 chas, yes i was thinking of using the markers for the entire kit as a shortcut. thanks you for your suggestion, i will try spray cans and the painting technique that you've mention. for brush painting, is it advisable to use water based paints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaosWarrior Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Yes, I think it's both advisable and very common to use waterbased or acrylic paints. ChaosWarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I like to use artists acrylics That I thin with Isopropyl (rubbing) alchohol, the higher the percentage the better! Have you painted any models before? If not, you might want to practice the brush technique out on some other kits as it takes time to develop the skill. Otherwise go with the spray cans and masking tape. A little tip, when painting it is always better to use more thin coats, rathere than a few thick coats. With spray paint try and avoid spraying toward the edge of the tape. It is best, I've found to have the can BEHIND the edge that you want. (if that makes any sense. . . can someone describe this better please? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I like to use artists acrylics That I thin with Isopropyl (rubbing) alchohol, the higher the percentage the better! Have you painted any models before? If not, you might want to practice the brush technique out on some other kits as it takes time to develop the skill. Otherwise go with the spray cans and masking tape. A little tip, when painting it is always better to use more thin coats, rathere than a few thick coats. With spray paint try and avoid spraying toward the edge of the tape. It is best, I've found to have the can BEHIND the edge that you want. (if that makes any sense. . . can someone describe this better please? ) 400583[/snapback] I think I know what you're referring to, Chas. When spraypainting, aim the spray from behind the seam where the tape meets the plastic. If you aim towards that seam, then paint can be forced underneath and into any engraved details that the seam crosses, plus it causes the paint to collect at the seam, creating a raised "lip" where the tape was, instead of a smooth transition. i.e. Tape _____________________ Plastic direction of spray ------->> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Penguin. . . you're my new God, where do I go to worship you? That is exactly what I meant but couldn't figure out how to say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin Posted May 21, 2006 Share Posted May 21, 2006 (edited) Penguin. . . you're my new God, where do I go to worship you? That is exactly what I meant but couldn't figure out how to say! 400691[/snapback] Kevin Smith once said something about God being a Canadian... if it wasn't 3 AM right now, I could probably come up with something witty to say along those lines. But it is, so I can't, and I'll just say thanks for the kind words. Edited May 21, 2006 by Penguin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutsAndCasca Posted May 21, 2006 Share Posted May 21, 2006 Yes, I think it's both advisable and very common to use waterbased or acrylic paints.ChaosWarrior 400575[/snapback] Hey chaos - is your avatar a blood-bowl player or just regular warhammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutsAndCasca Posted May 21, 2006 Share Posted May 21, 2006 Penguin. . . you're my new God, where do I go to worship you? That is exactly what I meant but couldn't figure out how to say! 400691[/snapback] *claps for penguin* I liked the colored lines thingy for the explanation. Very nice! If I may put my two cents in here, I'm completely new to the airbrushing thing, but I can offer up some words of wisdom from what I've encountered thus far. #1: Don't use crappy/crap-brand masking tape. FOR THE LOVE OF THE CREATOR DON'T USE ELECTRICAL TAPE. You can ony imagine what horrors I have seen, and how much money and time I have wasted. #2: Definitely make sure the paint isn't too thick if you're airbrushing, and before every spray, start off testing it out on a paper bag or something to make sure you're not gonna' shoot out globs of tear-inducing ugliness. #3: Don't go to Home Depot and experiment using various paint-removal gels/liquids if you ever want to get paint off of one of your 140 dollar Yamato Valks. Your heart will be dissolved in your stomach as you watch your valk dissolve under the liquid-nightmare you applied with your own weary, frightened, guilt ridden hands. I may have more things to offer up later as I make more mistakes. Hope this helps anyone else who is either unfairly unknowledgeable in this dept. or chronically stupid. I fall into both categories. ---Bri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sar Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 Hey chaos - is your avatar a blood-bowl player or just regular warhammer? 401019[/snapback] It's one of the Chaos Warrior pieces from Heroquest, no? ;P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaosWarrior Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 (edited) Yes, I think it's both advisable and very common to use waterbased or acrylic paints.ChaosWarrior 400575[/snapback] Hey chaos - is your avatar a blood-bowl player or just regular warhammer? 401019[/snapback] Well it's actually from a MB/Games Workshop game called HeroQuest. I'm not sure about the name since it's the Swedish version. Oops! didn't see your answer Sar. ChaosWarrior Edited May 22, 2006 by ChaosWarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutsAndCasca Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 Yes, I think it's both advisable and very common to use waterbased or acrylic paints.ChaosWarrior 400575[/snapback] Hey chaos - is your avatar a blood-bowl player or just regular warhammer? 401019[/snapback] Well it's actually from a MB/Games Workshop game called HeroQuest. I'm not sure about the name since the Swedish version. ChaosWarrior 401234[/snapback] AAAAAaaaah. I know a lil' about it 'cuz I used to play Warhammer 40k about 13 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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