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I got my VE-1 on display with my VT-1 and the Strike Roy and they look awesome together.

It's that or Student Seat (which seems more likely). It's so hard to read that white lettering until you get it on something black.

Oh? I look forward to both.

So when are you guys going to review the VE-1? (I always look forward to your video reviews on Youtube) Got mine yesterday and I it's just as good as the VT-1 if not better.

Now at

2 VF-1D

1 VT-1

1 VE-1

1 VF-1J Hick

1 VF-1S Focker

1 YF-21

1 YF-19

1 VF-22

1 VF-11

1 VF-0S

1 VF-25 (Bandai but so what?)

1 Q-Rau

2 Destroids

So 12 VF, 2 Destroids and 1 Q-Rau. Note all VF-1s are V.2s

Ah sh*T! Totally missed them! Oh well I retract the statement then. Still I wish they had included something like Vi-RS mentioned with the Has models.

Yep I was going to do that....then I found out I could get complete replacement arms for $12 bucks from Overdrive (would be free but you have to pay for the shipping and handling....). So I took the lazy way out this time.

Haven't picked up any v2 1/60 VF-1 yet. Maybe the Virgin Road. My inclination would be a Focker or Hikaru 1S, but don't want one that's gonna break. Any of these clear?

Now that I have my favorite 1/60, the Gamlin VF-22S, what I want most at this point, is a Regult, Followed by a Low-Viz VF-22, VF-19A. After that, I distantly hope for a Yamato VF-17D and VF-19S.

Basically anything after the VF-1J seems to be fine even if they don't have all the fixes. I only have cracks on my Focker's shoulders but even they are still staying on. The replacements are still sitting in their bag for the day they might fall off.

Anyways the problem seems to be with the burred end of the pin and the thickness of the material. Post VF-1A (TV) and VT-1 toys seem to mostly have these fixes. If you buy any of the others I would prying off the shoulder pieces and losing the joint screws by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Getting rid of the stiffness in that ball and socket joint seems to help allot on the earlier models (like I said I have only had problems with my Roy).

Back on topic. Anyone have a real good solution for making the torso (up/down pivot movement) stiffer on the Warhammer.....opps sorry .....Tomahawk?

yes! and thank you mog! that helps a lot, but what i'm REALLY needing is a pic with the legs positioned correctly before the belly plates are closed.

now i have to figure how to get the 21 transformed correctly WITH the rear fuselage in place this thing is a beaut of a puzzle and i love it...but DANG. it is without a doubt the most difficult thing to transform that i have ever owned. i've had it since release and only transformed it twice. i could never get the belly plates to behave correctly so i just displayed it with the fast packs on and left it alone (my fast packs aren't wonky like most i've read about). i never even realized the fuselage was supposed to set flush.

maybe i should try chucking it against the wall...i've read in another thread that will produce interesting results

If you look at the picture I provided it's almost perfect. The legs need to be perfectly aligned with each other viewing from the top (edit: while leaving the slight gap between the knees) and the back of the VF. It is tricky and taking the knee pads off might help you out a bit.

Edit- see above.

Sticker sheet is a fail! (Edit: Opps! Sorry I missed them. They are on the bottom right of the sheet) It's the exact same as the VF-1D so there are no pilot names for Max or Mira....... just Student Meat, Capt. Dagger and Lieut. K Wahammer.

It's not a total loss though. I was able to find the decals I needed from the VF-1S and J (I think) . One of those had the pilot decals I needed.

I imagine it was easier just to reuse the Roy figs?

When did you find it necessary to use them? I didn't use them for any of the 3 modes and everything seemed pretty secure.

Yeah you don't have to but I find everything is more solid when you do. I also find the when I put the dish on sometimes if I don't have the fins locked in the act of taking the dish off and on can move the back pack out of position. Again you don't have to I just find it keeps it in position better.

It's not as bright but still brighter than the pics.................

Edit:

Sorry my bad. The VT-1 IS brighter than the VF-1D. I would say that the VF-1D is more of a brown/dirty orange and the VT-1 is almost safety vest orange. The tan is a lighter shade too. I would say this is a good thing as you would want a trainer to be highly visible not? Either way I actually like the color scheme more than my VF-1D.

Yeah the old 2 seater thread was getting pretty big......I don't know why they need to be broken to specific threads for each one of the differant verions though. Wouldn't a D and E/T thread been enough?.........

Just got my VE-1 and VF-1D Virgin Road yesterday and they are nice! I am actually really more impressed with the VR road. That dark blue color is for lack of a better word "Scrumshus"!

Ahem.....Back on topic! I do love the VE-1 too and it's definitely worth the price. I did notice a couple of problems though (that I am sure has been mentioned on other threads):

- that the arm antenna array on the arm has a problem. The screw on for the rotation mechanism to change it's position on the arm was too tight on mine and needed to be loosened. Not a big problem but something to be aware of.

- Read "eye" on the head has a line going through it that I am no liking to much.

- once the arm pieces are clipped on good luck getting them off!

Things I loved about the VE-1:

- Lots of tampo printing! They even tampo'd on the landing gear door decals!

- The Elint parts are just cool and sit on nice and snug once you get everything aligned and hooked up properly.. (You really need to use those tail fin hooks on this one!) Love that telescoping radar dish!

- Wing hard points so you can put to use all those missle pods you have lying around.

- Pilots fit in nice and snug and look awesome (although some might have trouble figuring out which goes where)

- Like the VT-1 and VF-1Ds they are nice and tight and awesome like all the VF-1 1/60 V.2s.

Didn't say there was anything wrong per say I was just wondering if they are phone camera pics. And yes those are nice displays.

Just changed my displays.....

Pardon the grainy photos I'm too lazy to take out my SLR today.

Ouch! Camera phone pics? Looks about the same quality as my Blackberry Flip....

Yeah my Roy has had it's broken shoulders forever and they still haven't fallen off so go ahead already. If you haven't ordered replacements from Overdrive what are you waiting for?

I have also broken off a wing hard point on my VT-1 using the box launchers that came with my VF-1J. Was a little miffed but a little plastic cement and it's right as rain. I should have realized there was going to be a problem when it was so hard to get the missles on and off the wings. Now I make sure to work them off of my VT-1 with a back and forth movement. ...... oh well.

What scale are these in again? 1/100?

Overdrive finally shipped my VE-1 and VF-1D VR. Hopefully I will have them by the end of next week.

few more....

Go ahead and use any of mine if you want. Here are some more if they are of any use to you.

hmmmm.......nothing for a couple of weeks eh?.........bump! ........when the heck is the Phalanx coming out anyway?

logos--please show me the top of the plane too, when the belly plates are closed. On mine, the upper rear fuselage always "pops up" if the plates are closed fully.

I know the knees are not the problem on mine. I am well aware of the "extra click and the little hole". (I have actually fully disassmbled the knees for repair, and am very familiar with their inner workings---same for the backpack). If anything I think mine's issue is actually the grey metal bar. I think once I got it fully clicked in. Every other time, it's only like 90% of the way in but will NOT go further. That or the shoulder.

Though the part the nozzles are attached too, where the belly plates latch into at the rear--also always an issue. The plates often slip sideways out of position.

::edit:: Hunh. I just got this to happen, while maintaining "as good as mine gets" for the upper rear plate. (I seriously think my back plate has a mold flaw or something---it will NOT lay flush with the middle/forward section---I've got stress marks from forcing it)

Yeah it's not sitting totally flush. It's not crooked but it is raised a little bit. If I remove the fast packs it gets allot better.........maybe a case of damned if you do damned if you dont?