fulcy
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Posts posted by fulcy
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I will have to agree with Js - the only threads in the model section are for macross models. Any other model thread that's been created - like the gundam model thread - has been posted in the other anime/sci fi section, so even though these are model kits, they are not macross model kits, so they should stay in the other anime/sci fi section.
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Only one thread please.
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Yeah, yeah - quiet you!
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You can order the 1A head lasers from my website. And PLEASE DISREGARD the statements made there that say you may not be able to use the 1A head lasers on the 1A Cannon Fodder - I just managed to get a CF head apart, so these guys work with any 1A head made! Yay!
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Just in case you guys didn't notice my thread in the for sale section, but these guys are now available:
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On a somewhat related note (well, I guess it really is related) - if anyone here is serious about purchasing this company, let me know. Since I just set up the mechaskunk store, it'd be easy for me to set up a seperate page for the display stands (that is, if you want/need a web space for selling these guys online). Orders and payments would be done through paypal directly to your paypal account - that's a nice thing about using the paypal system, you can set it up to send the payment to whomever you wish for each item you are selling...
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Hmm. perhaps this is me being a bit stupid but why spend $4000.00 for contacts and a 'customer base? I mean, unless the stands are patented, why not just re-create them yourself? Shoot, we've got amazing modellers here that re-cast entire Valk cockpits and we couldn't reverse-engineer these simple stands?
To me the smarter thing would be to -
1. Find a plexiglass plant and give them specs of the individual pieces.
2. Order a bunch from the plant
3. list on AdWords/Overture and MWF and see if anyone bites. Really, I don't see what is so unique about what he's selling. If he had inventory, that'd be one thing but he doesn't.
Well, based on his response to Macross73, you not only get the databases, etc., but you get access to the existing molds to make some of the parts - and those alone cost AT LEAST $2000 each. So $4000 is not much at all to be spending on this company...
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But as soon as you are used to it you will never go back to a CRT. I use a CRT at work just because I need pantone calibrated colors but I now prefer widescreen LCD. My next computer I really want to get one of those great Apple cinema monitors... those things are outstanding... but pricey.
You should definitely splurge, and get the 23" Apple Cinema Display. Pick up one of these guys:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=1203
and you can use it on your Dell - like I'm using my 23" Cinema right now. The screen is fantastic - much nicer than the other 24" LCD's we have in the office (Samsung and Dell).
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TV
1/48 Vf-1J (Hikaru): 02
1/48 Vf-1J (Hikaru FP): 01
1/48 Vf-1J (Miria FP): 01
1/48 Vf-1J (Max FP): 01
DYRL
1/48 Vf-1A (Max): 01
1/48 Vf-1A (CF): 03
1/48 Vf-1S (Hikaru): 01
1/48 Vf-1S (Roy): 04
Variations
1/48 Vf-1A (Low Vis I): 01
Accessories
1/48 Vf-1 GBP (Blue): 01
1/48 Vf-1 GBP (Camo): 01
1/48 Vf-1 FP: 06
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The lowest I've seen a 1/48 go for, without box and in pretty bad shape (since I bought it) was $90. I doubt you'll find them cheaper than that anywhere...
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Uhm, these kits never cost $30 - and you'll be lucky to find the recasts for that little. The original CoreWorks kits cost anywhere from $130 to $200, and the recasts of these kits cost anywhere from $60 to $110, depending on the kit and number of parts...
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Are you sure it's an original coreworks kit, or is it a recast of the coreworks? I've bought three coreworks originals, and 2 recasts of coreworks, and the originals are all excellent casts, no air bubbles, clean, everything fits together. The recasts, on the other hand, are warped, details are missing, and pieces generally don't line up well...
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Go very, very light with primers on plastic. Keep the can far away, and put on a very thin coat. It's just going on there to help the paint stick, and to give you a good under-coat base for your colors to stand out on. Spray froma distance, and don't let the primer build on and get wet. You don't want to cake it on.
When it comes to brush painting, I too have had nothing but trouble with un-thinned Tamiya. The worst that happens is that you pull of paint while trying to get coverage, because it dries so fast. The stuff is AWESOME for airbrushing though. Some of the replies in this thread make me think I need to thin it out a lot more before I try to brush paint with it.
When I do bother to prime, I tend to use Gunze Sangyo MR.SURFACER. It goes on nice and SUPER thin. Often I skip priming, especially on smaller pieces, because a thick coat can cover up surface details.
If MR.SURFACER is too expensive for you (they charge an arm & leg for it), I've heard good things about various kinds of Automotic Primers from Walmart.
You also want to make sure your parts - even if they are plastic - are nice and clean before you put any primer on them. Wash them with a mild dish detergent, and rinse thoroughly with warm water, to get any grease or release agents off the parts...
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Your question, as you admit, was a newb question, and it was kinda ranting. It wasn't complete, and didn't give us all the information to solve your problem. As is stated in the posting guidelines, that forum is for mature modelers, not for newbs - and you could have easily found out most of your answers from other places or by searching google (or using the search function on that forum). If you had asked 'Am I using these paints correctly?' instead of assuming that you were using them correctly, and that it was the paint's fault for flaking off your model, your questions would have been answered, and you would still be a member over there. Don't blame me for what you did - you brought it on yourself...
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Hey promethuem5 - keep this thread on topic, and don't call other people from other forums 'a-holes' or 'dicks'
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Check the link - Grips war set consists of Zeta, Hyakushiki, and Mk II
http://www.1999.co.jp/asp/GoodsDetails_e.a...yoyaku109_e.asp
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I got that one about a month ago - the BEST way to make sure everything is cool with your paypal account - never click on a link from a fishy email! Close your mail program, open your browser, and type in the paypal address. Login, and check everything out.
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Order thread is up, with the list from up top. See here for details:
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How big are these HCM-Pro figures? They are 1/200 scale or there about?
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As long as your handy with a screw driver...
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sorry for the delay - been slammed with work recently, but I did manage to get the mold done. The only problem - I dunno if it's cause the rubber I'm using is old or if it's too cold in my basement, but it seems to take about a week before I start getting good casts out of it. So, if all goes well, I should be able to start making these beginning early next week (after I get back from yet another trip - woo, philly here I come! ).
Yukikaze Fans, Rejoice!!!
in Anime or Science Fiction
Posted
LTSO - it's not macross, so it's not going in the model section. End of discussion.