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mechaninac

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Posts posted by mechaninac

  1. Ranka looks alright, but that Sheryl... she looks like a two dime hooker cosplaying as Sheryl.  I'm well aware that Sheryl does dress provocatively; but like Lolicon indicated, the face is all kinds of off, and combined with the outfit we get a pinch-faced weird-lipped heroin addicted street walker doppelganger of Sheryl.

  2. ^ Upfront payment for the item upon reservation.  Shipping payment upon release and ready to send.

  3. On the subject of shipping delays/transit times, I've been noticing longer waits for delivery of anything coming out of Asia sent via SAL, registered or not, over the past few months; what would usually take 2-4 weeks now can take up to 5 to show up, with one item I got off eBay requiring a nerve-wrecking 6 weeks.

  4. 5 hours ago, dj760 said:

    Back in stock at CDJapan for 25k Yen. Only 17 remaining: http://www.cdjapan.co.jp/product/NEOGDS-281659?s_ssid=e455d95bc013b312df

    Thank you!!!!!... :hail:

    5 hours ago, SuperHobo said:

    Wow, that's actually quite a few of them. 

    Down to 13 now...;)

    4 hours ago, dj760 said:

    @SuperHobo thought this was peculiar too.  Wonder how.

    Peculiar but welcome, no doubt.

    4 hours ago, SuperHobo said:

    They just suddenly got another restock this week after telling me last week they were completely sold out. I guess it's fine for folks who missed out. 

    I'm one of those who missed out on the original preorder and then held off on pulling the trigger on the lead-up to release, and after, due to the price hike, and I just had no luck navigating Amazon Japan to go that rout when the price was good, so this was most welcome as it's the least expensive choice I've seen since release.

     

     

    So, again, thank you dj760, you rock!:clapping:

  5. 5 hours ago, Convectuoso said:

    From that list, the Phalanx is the most boring option. It's just a repaint of the defender, with barrels where the arms should be 

    ... If you consider an entirely new upper chassis, not just the arms, as "just a repaint", then, I guess, sure, but so is the Tomahawk in that case; after all, three out of 5 Destroids share the same legs and waist assemblies, with unique or omitted thigh add-ons.  From my point of view, aside from badly wanting to finish off the walking tanks line-up, Bandai already invested in half the tooling necessary for further types, so why not produce them?  Unless the Defender was such a dud that they assume other Destroids would be as well.  Personally, the Tomahawk is my favorite, but I'd jump at the chance to add a Phalanx to my collection without an iota of hesitation.

  6. Huzzah and Alleluia!  After the longest delivery delay I have ever experienced with N-Y, damn near 7 whole weeks instead of the usual < 3.5 weeks, my DX VF-31S has finally made its way to my hands... at one point I actually thought it had gone missing at the origin post, Japan, where the tracking information was stuck on pre-shipment for the longest time.  All's well that ends well, but man, that was a bit nerve wrecking.

  7. I've completely given up on ever owning a 31A... the prices are just too insane.  My only hope is that Bandai will see fit to revisit the mold with a slightly different unit.

  8. 7 hours ago, Lord_Of_Tetris said:

    Won't that glue the metal to the plastic, and then the joint won't move?

    Nope.  It's not a glue, it's a solvent for ABS, Styrene, Polystyrene, Butyrate, and Acrylic (Testors will only react with Styrene, PS, and ABS); it will only affect the plastic as there is ZERO reaction to metal.  The stuff works by melting the plastic and welding it to itself or another piece of plastic of similar chemical composition.  The worst that can happen is that the melting causes plastic to ooze out and mechanically lock to any surface imperfection or detail on the metal part, but this impediment to free movement would be fairly weak and temporary... moving the parts against each other with a small amount of force would wear the offending obstruction down and free up the joint.  The beauty of this repair method is that, if done properly, you'll hardly be able to tell that the crack was there in the first place as the melting of the plastic makes the part whole again.

  9. 4 hours ago, Lord_Of_Tetris said:

    Any suggestions on replacement parts or ways to repair?

    I couldn't figure out how to remove the roll pin.

    That part looks to be easily repairable.  Get yourself some ABS cement (Tenax, Ambroid, or even Testors' Liquid cement for plastic) and a toothpick.  Use the brush applicator of the liquid ABS solvent -- lightly loaded, not dripping -- and apply a small drop to the crack, let capillary action carry the liquid into the split; next, wedge the toothpick between the plastic and the metal to force and brace the crack closed; lastly, let it cure overnight and then cut or scrape off any plastic that oozed out.  Done, and good as new.

  10. I've got to agree on the Atlas; while it was a nice nod to Macross in its clumsy way, the mechanical designers and animators didn't even bother engineering a ship with a passable breakdown for arriving at the final robot mode; the parts make no sense and just morph from one form into another that are barely related to their warship-born shapes.

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