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mechaninac

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Posts posted by mechaninac

  1. Premium finish = premium price = me no bite; besides, all my other Yamato/Arcadia VF-1s are standard versions and non DYRL, so this would look out of place and so, an easy pass.  Wake me up when they decide to offer up a regular edition sans price inflating frills that should've been there all along.

  2. At the risk of giving any further legitimacy to a verboten topic, if V-Fac does produce a VF-31A, KO be damned, I'll be all over it; it would serve Bandai right for flubbing that particular release so badly.  Would I prefer the official thing?  Sure, but not at current artificial-scarcity scalper prices...  So KO it will be.

  3. No payment request from Amiami for my one DX VF-1J pre-order as of this posting, which allowed me to add a RE-100 Gun-EZ to it.  Truth be told, I wouldn't mind one iota if I didn't have to pay until January... I'm in no hurry.

  4. Weren't the M&M VF-4s 1/72 Wave kits?  Or did I miss an H-M R announcement?... Not that I can't see Bandai milking the mold; it would make sense.

  5. On 12/25/2018 at 11:44 AM, Stampeed Valkyrie said:

    So I Just finished the 8th Season of Woketron Legendary lameness  and good riddance.

    It had much promise in the first few seasons.. then they went Woke.. and then it all went to crap.

    I'd take Voltron 3D over this dumpster fire.

     

    Although not the most egregious example of Woke infiltration and corruption out there, I can see your point all too well... the PC narrative and agenda pushing floodgates opened up and what was mostly a good show became something I shall never revisit, with the last episode sealing the deal as the final nail on the coffin.

  6. ^ Look at the WARNING portion of the product label; if it lists methylene chloride or acetates and methyl ethyl ketone it will work just fine.  Model kits are predominantly molded out of styrene/polystyrene; the broken antenna, as with most plastics used on these types of toys, is made from a soft-grade ABS (AcetylButyStyrene)... same plastic family, same reaction to model cement solvents.  To be absolutely sure, test the Liquid Poly on a small hidden surface of the toy with a tiny drop and check for the expected softening of the spot that should occur.

    Good luck.

  7. 15% off Toys and Games (Model kits too) on eBay, today only, with and added bonus of earning 8% eBay Bucks for future use, for anyone who might be interested.

    Use Promo Code PLAYTIME15 at checkout.

     

    Cheers!

  8. 2 minutes ago, jenius said:

    Does HLJ give shipping prices?

    Not for unreleased items, I don't think, but you can always check the shipping quotes from similar ones.

  9. 54 minutes ago, optimuspint said:

    So I got my 19 in today and it has the broken head laser.  Is there a prefered glue that you guys are using to put it back on?  

    Tenax, Abroid ProWeld, Testors Liquid Cement; all of which are methylene chloride (acetates and methyl ethyl ketone in the case of Testors) based solvents for Styrene/ABS.  Stay away from glues, specially CA, as all you'll accomplish is to make a mess and ruing the part(s), and the repair WILL NOT hold up.

    1.  Drill into both pieces if the broken antenna with a small diameter bit equal to the thickness of the pin to be used (see #2), trying to keep the holes as aligned as possible.

    2.  Insert a piece of metal pin (seamstress pin works perfectly) into the hole of one of the pieces and then mate the whole thing onto the other piece, paying attention to maintain proper alignment.  Leave a small gap between the parts.

    3.  Touch the brush applicator of the plastic weld, loaded with just a bit of liquid, to the gap so that capillary action carries the solvent in.  Push the two pieces together until you see a small amount of dissolved plastic ooze out of the break.  Keep the parts under slight pressure pushing the pieces together for a while until the oozed plastic is no longer tacky.  Let it cure overnight.

    4.  Scrape, file, sand away the repair's resulting scar (the oozed plastic). Brush on a super thin coat of the plastic solvent over the repair and sanded areas, if necessary, to even-out the surface finish and let dry.  Polish the plastic to match the rest of the part.

    5.  Done!

    If performed correctly, the antenna will be stronger than new, won't need paint, and will look like it was never broken at all to anything but the most anal scrutiny.

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