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kkx

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Posts posted by kkx

  1. I have had that problem with Toys and Joy but one in three they pan out. They were able to get me a Hasegawa Macross Zero F-14 when everyone was sold out. So they are a little headache but cool in my book.

    I order the "max & miria" dual in one VF-1J from them.

    There are the only place that listed this as available.

    But they took my money and informed me (after one month) that it is now on back-order. Since it is out of production, I can't see how they can try to order it.

    I am not impressed and trying to call them and emailing them is a pain. I can't get anyone on the phone (the time different is a big pain too, I have to call at very odd hours) and the email reply is not very helpful.

    I am very upset and would like to warn other people to think twice before trying to do mail order from Toys and Joy.

  2. Man, that's a ton of stuff. But I'm the same way just a few items. Like the VF-1 Valkyrie Atmospheric Booster, Hasegawa Macross Package Calendar 2002 and Posters, and maybe a few decal sets. As for the shipping thow. I live in Baltimore. It's just a 40 min diver to DC. LOL ...

    I'd been for those items. Who eles is in?

    Hi,

    You have a strong advantage since you live so near Christopher.

    From the few of us that expressed interest, It is easily about 25% of the firtst bid cost. Are you keen to go ahead and bid ?

    :) Too good a chance to miss.

  3. Again there isn't a right way to do this. I usually do the panel lines after I decal because when I used to do the panel lines first then clearcoat then decal, I found that I would, more often than not, need to redo the panel lines on the sections where the decals crossed over them to get a good scale effect and make the decals look painted on rather than having them look like something applied on top of the suface.

    So what I do is: primer, base coat, clear coat, decals, clearcoat, panel lines, weather, dull coat. But as I said that's just what I do, and by no means is my way the only correct way to do this. I' there are better ways but this is what I have found works for me. One adjustment is if I'm going do heavy weathering I sometimes do a clearcoat after the panel lines. Oh and keep in mind I'm a brush painter, don't know how those air brush folks do things. ;)

    Hi Chas,

    What you said make senses.

    Damn, now I am tempted to wash the who thing clean and do decal first.

    Some part might be a bit difficult to clean and some hours of effort down the drain.... :(

    Thanks for the explaination, it is much clearer now. If it is too late to save my current build, at least my next one will be better (I hope).

    I am amaze that you can paint just using brush. I try to do that when I started, but it is very hard to not leave some brush mark. :o How did you do it ?

    Some other people in this forum also said that they are using just brush. Putting on a few coat of very thin paint. I try to do that, but the results is still ver bad. Then I invested in an airbrush.... But still good to learn to do just brush painting, it is a very valuable skills I think.

  4. That is purely a matter of taste. Do you like the way it looks? If so then no it is not too prominent.

    With model building (particularly SF and Fantasy subjects) ther is no 'Right' way for the model to look (unless you are trying to recreate a specific subject, in our case how a subject looks 'on screen'. If that is what you are attempting it would be best to state what the subject is and maybe post some of the ref. images you are using. Barring that you are the sole arbiter of what is right or wrong.

    In my opinion it looks quite good!

    Keep it up and let's see some more!

    P.S. I usually do panel lines after the Decals have gone on (less coats on the model that way, er. . . well. . . the way I do it anyway, not sure of others here.)

    Thanks Chas and HWR for the encouraging comments and advices. Now I feel more assured.

    I am not trying to recreate any specific subject (too ambitious for a first timer to do that I think).

    I will keep going and hopefully finish this soon (without another big disaster, like the fin dissapear into the nose con when I try to glue it on). :)

    Yeah, I was wondering if doing the panel line first before decal is correct. I do it this way because some of the panel line was disappearing when I was done with the painting.

    If I do decal first, then I need to seal the decal with another layer of future before doing panel line. I was kind of worry that by then, it will be one layer of coat too many for some of the line.....

    I hope this will turn out ok (finger crossing)....

  5. hi,

    I am not sure if this is the correct place to ask this, but I need some advice from you guys.

    this is my first model and I am at the panel line stage.

    Is the panel line shown in the picture too prominent ?

    I am using chalk pastel mixed with water and a few drop of washing liquid.

    I try to use dark brown so as not to create too strong a contrast to the base color, but it didn't seems to work. The panel line still look very dark.

    The pastel is great, very easy to clean up and almost idot proof (I can redo them many times), but that bad thing is that it is too easy to remove. It is very hard for me to get a consistent "darkness" across the whole model.

    Some of the line is very shallow, my own fault (too many layers of paint and primer), so it is very hard for me to high light some of the line. Will using ink or oil wash be easier ?

    Thanks for any advices in advance.

    Cheers,

    kkx

    post-4034-1158324078_thumb.jpg

  6. I have had that problem with Toys and Joy but one in three they pan out. They were able to get me a Hasegawa Macross Zero F-14 when everyone was sold out. So they are a little headache but cool in my book.

    I wish I seen this before I order from Toys and Joy.

    They have given no update on my order after 5 days. I am counting on the item to be delivered by mid next week.

    I am flying back to UK and I hope to bring it back with me.

    Well, they are the only non-Japan store the still have stock for the Max and Millia dual kit box.... so my choice are very limited.

    Anyone else have bad experience with Toys and Joy online order ?

  7. In London I can think of Forbidden Planet (as above never seen any Macross there, and is too commercial now it has moved).

    There is also Comet Miniatures near Clapham. Last time I went must have been 12 years ago.

    http://www.cometminiatures.co.uk/

    I just buy my stuff online now as places like FP/Comet seem to rip you off. Even with import duty I have found it cheaper to use hlj.com or ebay.

    I am doing the same here.

    But the shipping is still costly (well, in relative term).

    Pay for 3 kits from ebay the other day, which cost USD35 in total. Which is not bad and quite near to the actual price in Japan. But I have to pay USD66 for shipping.

    The same goes for other online shops.

    Everytime I visit Japan, I am so happy to pay just Yen3000+ for a box at a shop I can just walk in. Wish I could visit Japan more often. :(

    I also wish there are more local resonably priced supply.

    Oh well....

    :)

  8. well I cant afford a airbrush so I use spray paint And I always find myself runing into problems either it drips, runs, but thats not my biggest concern my problem is the detailsĀ  -the weathering, panel lineing. and i think I will build this kit , thanks for the response.

    425983[/snapback]

    Hi,

    Good that you have decided to build this kit.

    I am building my first kit too. I do run into a lot of problems. But it is fun to learn along the way.

    I am not sure this is good advise or not, but if you can pay $100 for someone to build a model for you, then you could buy a "cheap" air-brush with not much more.

    I am sure there are more models that you would like to build after the VF-0D. So it will be good to invest in a simple airbrush from the begining.

    Good luck.

  9. I have been search for this, if anyone know where to get one or have one that they are willing to sell, please contact me.

    I am also looking for good quality replacement decal for the MG2 (anyone have a high quality scan of the decal that they can share ?), any pointer will be appreciated.

    Cheers

  10. You are a lucky guy Brian. I am dreaming to have a 1/48 transformable MG2.

    Once again your work turn out great, if I need to do any paint removal, I will definately try to get a few tips from you. :)

    Thank you for the encouragement.

    I am still waiting for the MG2 decal. :( Anasazi is probably very busy, so it will be a while before I start my MG2 project.

    I am currently struggling with my sv-51 build. It is my first real model, so I am learning as I go along. Progress is very slow, I am too busy preparing for the working trip to Japan next week.

    Any luck with the visor removal ?

    cheers

  11. Good job.

    Transformable MG1 and 2. WoW!

    If my attempt at an 1/72 MG2 build turn out crap, maybe I will buy a 1/48 Yamato and do what you did.

    I remember that you use rattle can for the MG1, are you still using those for the MG2?

    The transparent headshield looks great.

  12. A bit off topic, sorry.

    Most of the people here had been Macross fan, model builder and member of this forum for so long that it can be a bit intimidating for new comer like myself.

    Some of my posts had been ignored. :) But as Brian (GutsAndCasca) said, don't just give up yet.

  13. Just wacthed part b and c. The VA for Mao is great but Sara's one is a bit lacking, in my opinion. :) I hope Mao's VA will get well soon and complete the recording.

    I can imagine that finding the right VA is taugh. Do you have special setup to do the recording? If not, then you could get people from "the net" to be your VA.

    cheers

  14. Great effort Hikuro.

    I like the voice acting of shin's co-pilot (edgar ?). He is good.

    I find the switching between voice over radio to "present" is very good (or from speaking without and with the face mask), especially just before the dog fight. It is a bit "over done" at some later part, I feel.

    Keep up the good work.

    I have not seen the whole thing (or what is available), but somhow I find that the projected character of Shin is not a good fit to the original japanese voice actor and the character in the story (sorry Hikuro, only my subjective judgement).

    Actually the mis-match of character is the one big reason I stay away from dubed anime. I know is not an easy problem to solve.

    cheers

  15. jorawar_b,

    www.hlj.com had it in stock last I checked.

    Is there any reason that it should not be consider a good source? Never brought from them, but planning to do so soon. If there is any trouble, appreciate it if someone can let me know.

    I am visiting tokyo next week. If time permit I might pick up one of this kit for you (if you like). But I think hlj can do it with less hassle.

    cheers

  16. Hi HWR,

    I been lurking here for quite a while and I love all the tank I saw from you.

    I wish I have the skill to build something half as goods as yours.

    If I know where you live I will crash in to steal/rob all your tank. :D

    I have just started on a SV-51 gamma (nora) kit myself. It is my first kit and it is not going well.

  17. Hi all,

    I am new here [first post :)].

    I wonder if anyone here know if it is possible to buy one of these limited edition kit. The Hasegawa 1/72 VF-1S Minmay Guard Battroid was sold out everywhere (not suprising since it is no longer in production).

    Any hint will be appreciated.

    Found a few on offer for 3800 yen in yahoo.jp but they will not ship oversea (and trying to become a member of yahoo.jp is a big pain).

    I am visiting Tokyo in two weeks time, so I can try to drop by any shop there, but I have very limted time for shopping on this working trip. Can probably only go to shop for one of the evening.

    Thank you in advance

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