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kajnrig

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Posts posted by kajnrig

  1. I was mildly interested in this toy when it first appeared, and even though I'm not too keen on the design or its source material, I wonder if scratchbuilding a "kit"/toy of it wouldn't be possible.

    I had a lot of text written breaking down the way it seemed like the design was laid out, but I think the biggest flaw in the ET rendition is just that the proportions are out of whack. Not altogether anything new to Macross, though. The Yamato and Bandai VF-1s all look not quite right in any of their three modes. The most well-proportioned VF-1s, the Hasegawas, are built as three separate non-transforming kits to avoid this issue altogether.

    There's enough consistency across modes in this design that I think it could reasonably be engineered to transform without sacrificing in the looks, but that would make for a very delicate toy. ET have, I think, simply traded more of the "model" aspect in favor of the "toy" aspect.

    EDIT:

    At the moment I'm trying to figure out how exactly the VF-2SS transformation is working with the help of the M³. Are there any other schematics on how it works.

    ...

    Looking at the transformation details it seems plausible but there might not be enough bulk in the main fuselage to hide the arms and the head turret. I also have to add that I like the design of Macross 2 main fighter much more than some of the designs in the other instances of Macross.

    Any input on how the transformation works is appreciated.

    That's my assumption right now as well. Behind the upper air intakes there's actually just empty space until the arms/head, with that space broken up by the leg swing bar (more of a flat expanse than a bar) and other internals. The lower vertical fin is, I think, meant to break up that empty space, but it doesn't do a great job.

    The ET toy doesn't try to emulate the legs' swing bar mechanism, which is, as said, a sort of hinged rectangular piece. Instead they went with their swinging slanted bars setup. It trades on "lineart accuracy" for sturdier joints.

  2. Hm... It seems simple enough, in theory anyway. I have a bunch of wood/cardboard I can use for the walls/floor of the booth as well as for filter material (cut into inch-long strips, stack them, tape/glue them together = makeshift coarse filter). I have some window fans I can use in lieu of PC fans that would go in the back of the booth. And possibly duct/piping as well, which I'd affix to the exhaust via duct-tape + cardboard...?

    How much airflow should I be aiming for? It seems some people use industrial-grade exhaust fans, others use room fans, PC fans, etc. Is the point just to get air flowing to minimize the accumulation of fumes?

    Thanks for all the advice, everyone. I'm looking forward to tackling this project this weekend.

    EDIT:

    A second question: Searching online, what search terms would work best for finding filter material? If I'm just looking for cotton/polyester/wool sheets, what stores would have that kind of material?

  3. Yeah, I decided to go ahead and get myself a decent beginner's AB. As it turns out, my brother also has a Testor's compressor that he used only a few times and hasn't touched since, so I'll be adopting that. I haven't checked it yet for regulators/moisture traps/other bells and whistles, but so long as it doesn't die the moment I plug it in, it should fit my needs just fine.

    Any advice on a spray booth setup? Like I said, I'll mostly be spraying water-based acrylics, so fumes aren't a major concern (though I do have some enamels and spray cans that I'll decant), but I'm doing all this in my bedroom, so my first inclination is to open up a window, set a fan blowing outward, jerry-rig a filter setup, and start spraying. My second inclination is to spray outside. My third inclination is to move my entire workshop to the wood-working shed. I may or may not invest in gas filtration masks.

  4. Nice to see you too, electric indigo. I honestly hadn't thought about that, but you may be right...

    Wouldn't I also need to invest in an air compressor + regulator? (Also a spray booth? Then again I'd be mostly spraying water-based acrylics.) I did some research way back when (early days on Hobbyfanatics) on airbrushing equipment, but it's all sort of faded now.

    Basic requirements for an airbrushing setup:

    - airbrush

    - compressor

    (- regulator)

    (- spray booth)

    Looking at single- and double-action brushes, I'm seeing that most single-action brushes still have ways of adjusting paint density/flow. In what scenarios would you need the on-the-fly paint flow adjustment that double-action airbrushes provide?

    But the more I think on it, the more of a good idea it seems. I'll have to think on this some more. Thanks for the suggestion.

  5. Hi, all -

    Long-time hobbyist and first-time MW poster. I've been contemplating my next bulk order from HLJ and while some kits are a lock (1/100 Frame Arms kits, Hasegawa's new 1/72 Super VF-25F/S, and a November-release 1/100 Gundam Barbatos), the rest of the order is a tossup between

    - HGUC Palace Athene

    - HGUC Gabthley

    - HG R-Gyagya

    - HG Lightning Zeta

    OR

    - 1/48 Hasegawa YF-19

    - 1/48 YF-19 photo-etch parts

    I really like the 19, and I've been itching to work on A) a 19, and B) a modern 1/48 fighter kit (the only other kit of that scale was a Revell reissue of an old 70s/80s Monogram F-14D). If any of you have worked on this kit before (with or without the metal detail parts), what were your impressions of it?

    My concern stems from my general lack of experience with scale aircraft as well as my lack of an airbrush. (I suppose I could always get a spray can, but I'm not sure if Tamiya et al have prefabbed cans in the right tan color. And hand-painting such large expanses of plastic seems like it'll create more problems than solve them.)

    But anyway. Like I said, anyone have experience with this (or the Bandai HGs, I suppose) kit that they could share with me to help with a purchasing decision?

    Thanks!

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