Chas

I could scan the decals from THIS ONE and email 'em to you if it's what you're looking for.

@arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone  mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit.

7 hours ago, arbit said:

Chas, I find its hard to avoid bubbles in the cast with small parts. Whats the solution?

Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent.

Not sure what you mean.

The recast part should look like the part that the mould was made from. If you make a mould from a melted beam saber then the recast part will look like a melted beam saber - except it will be made of epoxy putty, not soft, translucent, coloured plastic.

Yeah, the standard is what I use. It works well.

Yep that should work fine.

I've cast the hands and individual face parts from various Gundam kits and lots of small pieces from all sorts of other stuff that ad broken off, never really had an issue with air bubbles. I just pack the putty in real tight.

Ohh, and DRex I just use miliput as it's cheap and available where I am. No need for anything super special here.

Here is a tutorial (where I first learned how to do this) from a Malasian modelling forum PLAMO.

All props to the original author

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=38

Do yourself a favour and Google 'recasting with epoxy putty'.

For a small part like that it is the way I would go - quick, easy, no exotic ($$) material needed, easy to do over and over again,  and results are quite usable.

OOOOO yes!

Appleseed! that would be pretty awesome indeed!

OH! OH! What scale are theYamato mecha-collection kits?!

https://hlj.com/product/NTK06032/Rsc

Cool Macross/Evangelion crossover dio potential?

If they made an Eangelion New Tokyo I wonder there is a chance for an actual Macross City version.

Just saw these over at HLJ and thought, "Hmmmm 1:2500 maybe it could work in a 1:3000 Macross dio. as a stand in for Mcross city, or possibly even inside the Macross". Just thought yo folks may be interested.

https://hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?GenreCode2=all&Word=Geo+Craper&x=11&y=21

Chimaera definitely works, given how it's appearance would occur in the Macross universe - What with the very obvious Glaug/Destroid origin for te mech.

if you go with Ragnarök though, please be sure to include the umlaut. Changes rock to rook.

If you look carefully in that first video link (By DorobouHige) at the 1:11 mark you can see that he is using what looks to be a 60rpm motor. thought you might want to take that into account before you start testing with 150 rpm.

In case you need some more inspiration:

http://www.modelers-g.jp/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=33309

20 hours ago, Nyankodevice said:

any of you guys have any suggestions for a paint scheme for this one??

Blue: http://www.modelers-g.jp/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=19182

White: http://www.modelers-g.jp/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=6311

Weathered Grey (metal): http://www.modelers-g.jp/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=20902

Just some ideas.

EDIT: RED! (with White and Metallic accents.): http://www.modelers-g.jp/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=30158

On 2017-01-04 at 6:31 PM, captain america said:

 

Is it just me, or does the "new" MW feel like someone turned off the lights?

Scroll down to the very bottom of the page, on the left you will see the word 'Themes" left click on it and select 'White/Blue'. BAM! lights are back on.

How about replacing or modding the upper half of the gunpod butt (it would be the lower half in fighter mode) with a landing hook? Or simply put a hook at the very end of the butt and pretend that the arms swing down a bit when approaching the deck...

Ofcourse this means that if the pilot loses the gunpod, or the gunpod is heavily damaged, the pilot can no longer land on a carrier in fighter mode or has to opt for the barricade..

To be honest. I think this is the best solution. Given the pics posted earlier of the bottom/back of the VF-1 a hook placed here is in pretty much the perfect place. There could always be a secondary hook that gets deployed from one of the arms in case the gunpod goes missing. Also remember when Roy is detaching the cockpit from Hikaru's VF-1D? In the sloped part at the front of the arms there are those 3 little robotic manipulators that come out. Maybe something could be done using one of those? I mean they are right there in fighter mode.

EDIT: found an image from Perfect Memory

im sorry, but i've searched everywhere for those pictures...

but they are gone...

i can show you what i have, and the end result

No worries mate those pics are quite helpful indeed.

Thanks a bunch!

PM sent from me as well.

(probably too late with my luck)

That clip makes me want to wretch!

There is really nothing of the MacGyver character we know.

As presented in the clip this new MacGyver is a cock-sure, smarmy, smug little know it all wunderkind.

They got it all wrong. When Mac was doing his thing RDA always played it with a certain amount of trepidation, hesitation, and not being quite sure if it was all gonna work out (sure we all KNEW it would, but it was important for the character to be a little unsure of himself) . In that clip it all seems way too easy, and they all seem way to sure of themselves. There is no sense of risk, of danger. Just a bunch of hot shots showing off. Nothing I'd want to watch.

What the hell?!?!?

That's HUGE!

Where on Earth did you get that!

ill post more of this one in a couple of days, also ill explain exactly what i did..

I was really looking forward to this though

I was thinking that building a new bar for the hip would not be all that difficult using the kit parts and maybe a piece of the runners.

Wouldn't need to resort to 3 d printing for what looks to be a pretty straight forward scratch job.

That is some top notch work!

Great colour choices and nice subtle panel work.

From what I recall Fight! Iczer One is a 3 part OAV from 1985(?)

As far as I know there have been 2 sequel OAV's

1990(ish?) Adventue! Iczer 3

1995(ish?) Iczer Girl Iczelion

Haven't seen the sequels, but I thoroughly enjoyed the original When I finally saw it.

Back in the mid eighties I bought an art book (this one: http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/YVYAAOxyOMdS8KSw/s-l225.jpg) which is all I knew of the Anime for years- And I don't read Japanese. So all I had was 'film comic' images to piece together the story. Over the many years that I had the book before I managed to actually see the film I had pretty much managed to put together a very basic idea of what happens, but seeing it finally answered SOOO many questions for me.

Pretty good story and a nice mix of Horror, Yuri, and Mecha Anime genres to boot!

First 4 pics in this composite image:

http://hobbycom.jp/system/photo_sub_images/images/000/000/017/287/M_image.jpg?1376114670

Looks like he did some casting.

And those are really great builds, but I still prefer the sculpt of the Hasegawa static mode kits.