Jump to content

jardann

Members
  • Posts

    1050
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jardann

  1. Sweet paint design and great job on the build! It's awesome to see these kits completed.

    Your added details may have been relatively simple additions, but they give the kit a wonderful step up in the detail department. They add a good bit of interest and add to the impression of a finely finished piece.

    If you consider your skills "basic" then you owe it to yourself (and us) to get working on some more kits and develop into another "master" Macross model builder!

    Thanks for sharing with us. It's an inspirational build!

  2. Can't wait! It's been agonizing! I really want to hold this kit in my grubby little mitts. Please be the best Yeti ever and get this kit to meeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,................................................................................................................................................................................................. ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    ....................................................................................................................................................................................................

    ...............................................................................................................................................

    ........................................................................................

    ................................................

    ..........................

    thank you!

  3. Actually those kits were reissued several years ago. I can't remember right now who issued them. I have a set of the three different versions. They should be able to be found on Ebay, but the prices vary a lot and tend to go pretty high. I think these are the only 1/48 Mospeada Legioss kits. I don't recall ever seeing a 1/48 kit that is only Armo-soldier mode. The Toynami Masterpiece toys are almost direct copies of these kits.

    As Dax said, Gakken produced the vintage toys. I'm not sure if they had a 1/48 Armo-soldier either. I know they had 1/35 scale toys.

  4. Wow, you're really going all-out on that monster kit. It's so huge it really can be a bit of a blank canvas for all kinds of options.

    The new dome for the scout looks great. You could tint the semi-clear resin dome blue and leave the plastruct one crystal clear. Use a tiny bit of white glue or micro-crystal clear to attach one and then you could easily swap them out when you're ready for a change! ^_^

  5. It's worthless and will cause you great pain and sorrow! As a friend, I can take it off your hands and find a suitable way to safely eliminate the danger posed by this evil chunk of resin. You should just send it to me and I will assume all risk! I can't stand for you to be in danger while this piece is in your possession!

    :D;)B))

    j/k, I'll give you $20 bucks for it, but I'm sure it's worth more than that... :p

  6. Very cool looking project! Your progress looks very good so far. You've done a great job of pulling out the correct form from the raw materials. This is nitpicking a bit, and my impression may be just because the angles of the pictures are skewed a little, but it looks like the top engine nacelles may be a little off? The right side seems to sit a bit higher than the left. I would also suggest that you try to deepen the recesses on the lower nacelles/pods (whatever they are) if possible. It is a feature that stands out pretty prominently in the screen grab you posted. Sorry if those are points you are already planning to address, just trying to help if I can.

    What ideas do you have for the rotors? Looks like Revell, Italeri and Tamiya all have 1/72 scale kits of the Commanche helicopter. From what I've seen, the Rotor from the Italeri kit is closest to the lineart. Any of those kits would probably have some good parts to donate to your project, rotor, blades, nose cannon, sensor pods, etc.

    I definitely look forward to watching as this project continues.

  7. I primarily use the Tamiya Extra Thin as well.

    Sometimes I use the Testors liquid cement, This is thicker than the Tamiya and can give you a longer working time to align the parts and it won't run down every little nook and cranny on the parts. Make sure you get the black bottle with the black label. It has a metal applicator tip that doesn't clog. Stay away from the orange labelled bottle. It has a plastic tip that clogs and becomes useless after a couple of uses, I don't even know why they sell it in that bottle.

    Any of the various plastic cements actually melt and fuse the plastic parts together so that they kind of "weld" the parts together creating a strong bond and if done properly, fills the seams where two parts meet.

    I know several people who use CA (super glue, there are various brands in varying degrees of thickness etc.) for all of their assembly. I only use it for certain applications like when joining non-plastic parts etc. It can help fill gaps, but it eventually cures harder than the plastic, so sanding it can be difficult after a while.

    For clear parts, I usually use plain old white glue (Elmer's brand etc.) It doesn't mar or fog the clear plastic and it can fill small gaps around the edge of an airplane canopy. Sometimes I just flow a bit of Pledge/Future acrylic floor polish around the edge and let that hold the clear parts in place. That is not as strong, but easily removed or corrected if needed and very gentle to the plastic.

  8. Don't buy lacquer thinner from a hobby shop. You should be able to get a huge container of the stuff for cheap at your local hardware or home goods store. Anywhere that sells paint should really have some. You can use the lacquer thinner in small containers to soak your AB parts to clean them and just spray a little cupful through your brush outside in the open air to give it a quick flush. You should be able to do that safely without a respirator if you are outside, but I certainly wouldn't use it to thin your paint and run a long (or even a short) painting session inside. The lacquer thinner should clean up just about anything you use in the airbrush with ease. Just don't let it sit for long on any plastic parts as it could attack the plastic.

  9. Yeah, the Valkyrie is a small aircraft to begin with and 1/100 is much smaller than 1/72. I had a whole collection of 1/100 scale kits including the huge Robotech factory for a long time. In the old days, 1/100 scale was the way to go to get the largest variety of Macross subjects. Some of the old kits in that scale are really bad though and I never got around to building too many.

    Then Hasegawa redefined Macross models with their 1/72 line and I jumped on that bandwagon. Much better scale fidelity all around and its easy to modify accessories from modern jet model kits to be used along with the Hasegawas. Then we have had a bunch of garage kit makers on these forums and in a few other places start making wonderful resin kits of nearly any Macross subject you could desire and I haven't looked back. Now I have a whole collection of 1/72 scale Macross kits, and a much thinner wallet, but I still haven't gotten around to building them! :p

  10. I've got to agree with Noyhauser. the old Imai or Arii 1/100 fighter mode kits are actually nice little kits and can usually be found for very cheap prices. Not much in the cockpit, but they build up quite nicely. the 1/100 battroids and gerwalks take a bit more care to look good, but they are quite simple too. The 1/100 destroids are quite nice as well, but do have some seams that take some attention.

    I'm sure you won't go wrong with the Wave 1/100 kits either. I haven't built one, but they do look snazzy in the pics I've seen.

    Be sure to post some pics of your finished project. We all love to see built up models!

  11. I'm guessing you didn't put a gloss coat on before the decals. That's probably what is making the decals stand out. It's called "silvering" and happens because the clear decal film around the edges can't conform to the rough, matte surface of the paint. You can give the whole kit a gloss coat before you apply the decals or you can just apply some gloss coat to the spots the decals will go. Then, after the decals have settled and dried you can go back and give the whole kit a clear flat coat to even out the finish. Many modelers including myself like to use Pledge Future floor polish as a gloss coat. You can brush it or airbrush it straight with no thinning and it is pretty forgiving.

    As a whole the kit is really great. You should be proud of your results. I've been modeling for most of my life and I'm always pleased to get results like that. The weathering is nice and subtle. The seam work is very good (fixing seams drives me crazy :wacko: !) And the paint application looks very good and even as well. The decal thing is a pretty easy fix that you shouldn't have any problems improving.

    You need a pilot in there though! lol! I always want to see a pilot in a plane with the gears up. How's that thing flying anyway? Remote control? Anyway, that's my own little nitpick. ;)

    Great job man, can't wait to see your next project!

×
×
  • Create New...