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THOR

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Posts posted by THOR

  1. I can't imagine anyone putting in print that the latest Hase kits have poor quality. Maybe they were complaining about accuracy to the line-art...They're hard to put together if you're like 7 years old. Hasegawa is as good or better than Bandai. I like my reactive armor vf-0s. I've been building models for the past 30 years so I've built a kit from most every injection-molded manufacturer...yikes! I'm getting old.

    Speaking of Hasegawa kits, does anyone know if their kit of VF-0s with reactive armour is any good? I'm tempted to buy it but I've also read that Hasegawa kits aren't the greatest quality or easiest to assemble. I've been building Bandai Gundam kits for so long that I'm afraid I'll be disappointed.

    Anyone have any advice?

  2. I based my 1/35th on the Imai kit but took some liberties to make it not look so pudgy. Maybe my plans could be used for reference? Someday I'll have access to some equipment to finish mine

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  3. after my basecoat color, i use a wash of either thinned black (dark gray/brown/etc) paint or thinned oils. either way, coat the line and wipe off the excess. the rag cannot reach in the crack so you're left with a nice dark panel line. i've seen people use fine graphic pens to get down in the panel line. i tried it and always seemed to make a mistake and draw outside the lines here and there. i'm sure if i was super-focused and took my time it would have turned out better. i've seen people use pencils and watered-down black chalk dust, too.

    experiment on a toy or something and see which yields the best results for your taste.

    I want to try a dark basecoat color with light colored panel lines someday like on that neograde valk armor.

    :)

  4. i quit using model glue 25 years ago because the bond is ultra weak. every model i've built with testors model glue has fallen apart. super glue is the only way i fly. i like the thicker gel type. it's more managable for my clumsy, fat fingers that seem to attract glue.

    glue does not stick well to chromed parts...scrape/sand/dissolve the chrome off

    i've gotten the best results with cans when i warm them up in a pan of 1 inch high really warm water. not boiling! the paint seems to spray better.

    post pics of your experiments and work!

    :)

  5. some things i do:

    1. wash your parts in mild detergent and rinse/dry thoroughly to get rid of the mold release
    2. wear latex gloves for handling of parts before painting, the oil from your finger wil ruin a paint job
    3. make sure you have proper ventilation (spray booth), especially when using enamels/paint thinner (i use water based acrylics)
    4. dust free environment for paint and drying

    experiment with your airbrush:

    1. air pressure/volume
    2. distance and angle to model surface
    3. motion of airbrush across model
    4. paint thinning
    5. practice your paint scheme on lesser subjects
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