David Hingtgen

I always mainly refer to Fokker's commercial planes. They ALL rock and always have. Combat planes--only their really early ones were good, they fell behind after WWI. Their final aircraft was the F70, a shortened version of the F100 but with just as much power. Here's one of the few that was in service in the US: (I have personally seen this exact one, there was only 2 like this)

Sweden's always done well (SAAB), though it's always been considered surprising how a small country can make world-class planes alone. Even the UK and Germany haven't gone alone for a while. France just keeps modifying the Mirage XKR2M01 2000 Mk 6 ver 9.0 Platinum edition. (The Rafale's a Mirage with canards and we all know it)

Yeah, but where can you gloves like this for a young boy?

Hmmn. Jupiter's not bad, but Mars was the best. (There was a thread about this a while ago)

Yup, Fokker=very famous Dutch aircraft manufacturer. Big obvious hint: Hikaru is playing with a FOKKER toy plane, and it breaks when Roy dies. Unless it's a total coincidence written into that episode for no reason. Anyways---Fokker is pronounced "Fock-er". Yes, 99.9% of Americans (including Fokker pilots) pronounce it "Foke-er", but I asked a Dutch guy who was interested in aviation, and he says it's "Fock-er". And I'll trust a Dutch guy who knows planes on how to pronounce a Dutch aviation name. So Fokker is the right spelling, but Focker is the right pronunciation.

Don't you mean the salmon pink Comet? Anyways, wow, a rocket in a hour. I couldn't build an Estes Alpha that quick, and you guys got a 8-footer! Anyways, (maybe a stupid question) is the K530 a K-class motor?

It's from 1/67 to 1/70 I think. Don't recall if Graham ever got the EXACT number. Anyways, the canopy was slightly changed for the heatshield, hip bars are said to be strengthened, and I think there was a slight change to the shoulder slider bars to prevent them from scraping pain on the calf sides in fighter mode. No holes were added/removed/changed to accomodate FAST packs, it's always been able to.

The VF-11MAXL and MAXL Kai only have the ENGINES of the VF-16, they're not based on it. VF-11 modified to VF-11MAXL is exactly the same situation (on purpose) as the F-16 modified to F-16XL. (unless you think it's pure coincidence that aviation enthusiast Kawamori used "VF-16" and "XL" to explain the new VF-11, and it just happens to look like an F-16XL) http://www.anime.net/macross/mecha/united_...vf11/index.html

FAST packs came with the F-15C, not the E. They were in service long before Macross came about. It's just that the E has them 99.9% of the time, and has almost no bombing capabilities without them, and is HEAVILY associated with them. The C rarely uses them, usually only North Atlantic intercept missions. ::quick check:: First FAST packs were flying by 1974--plenty of time for Kawamori to learn about them before Macross.

Yeah, might want to toss the VB-6 (it isn't even a VF, it's a VB ) and add in the VF-0. (My fave's the -19 BTW)

I sure would complain(had there only ever been short stack MPC's seen). Prime's stacks should be long, no matter what. Especially since he hauls a trailer. Short stacks not only look really stupid (both my opinion and truckers I've asked regarding the subject---yes, truckers are aware there's a very famous TF named Prime that's a truck) but they're impractical on one which hauls a trailer of any height. (And Prime appears to have your standard trailer, if a bit short---more like a 45-footer at best, rather than a 48 foot) (Semi's aren't universal, they are equipped to haul either trailers *or* tankers---while the exact same model of truck can be configured either way, you generally do not switch once it's been built, since it takes a lot of time and money to change equipment, and you may need also to change the stacks)

100th reply! And I'm 23.

Anyone love the "Ep 20" opening at the beginning? Anyways---huh, wha? I lean more towards the "Truman Show" explanation than anything else. They've been showing there's no sky for a while in zoomed-out shots of the city, it's a LOT like the Truman Show's upper level. Heck, having it all a show gone wrong explains a lot. At least Macross shows make sense at the end. Usually everything's been blown up to save someone, and people head off to further reaches of the galaxy.

Just me being anal, (as I always am with planes), but the color's off. You want more of a tan, not orangey brown. SEA camo (the standard Vietnam camo for most everything) is Dark Green FS34079, Medium Green FS34102, and Dark Tan FS30219. (Unlike most colors, these don't have names, merely "dark" or "medium"---they're so common they're the defacto standard)

Yup, micro-etc only for decals. About the only thing you can do to stickers is heat them with a hair dryer, so they'll conform better.

Wow, Sea Harrier schemes work great on the VF-11. And I love the 899 anniv. style one, have a Corgi 1/72 like that. Ah yes, the Pukin' Dogs. 2nd-greatest name of all time, after the Flamin' Hookers. (But the 143 has SUPER Tomcats)

Oh man, an aviation question that I missed out on answering...

How about a different low-vis scheme? F-15E style gunship grey? F-15 light/dark ghost? F-15 current mod. eagle scheme? Or the ultimate, overall mountbatten pink. (Yup, nothing like a pale pink destroyer to confuse enemy ships---no ship painted pink was ever sunk, AFAIK)

There's no such thing as "black". I own a good 4 blacks, and none match what I'm currently trying to match. Will try some various enamels later. Anyways, for "basic" colors like blue, red, yellow, black, etc, go take a look at the model railroad paints. There's a LOT of "medium/bright reds", lots of yellow, not many blues though but they are nice and rich, and 3-4 blacks per line usually. I don't know why, but most blacks you can buy aren't black/dark enough to match most factory painted stuff. Acrylic black is the least black, btw, if you want BLACK, do not go with acrylic, it's inherently more flat/grey. (I'm currently touching up a locomotive, that's overall deep black, with off-black anti-skid, almost-black walkways, and "a different black" for vents and grills") (And the deep black is what I can't match) PS--the black on the legs isn't as black as the black stripes on the chest, IIRC. Leg chipping is probably easier to match than most other blacks.

I like the first one better. Sleeker.

No item crashes, but any item+any orb will give some pretty high-power attacks. Blue orb+holy water rocks for power/area, though I am more fond of my long-range double boomerang axe. (Blue+axe).

I wish every game could "not suck" due to that. Gameplay/control beats EVERYTHING. No matter how gorgeous the graphics, no matter how cool the hero, gameplay/control are the main things. Is that not what's wrong with X7? Zero's cool, X is cool, looks ok--but gameplay? Control?

That's a very famous F-14 pic. Not faked or anything, just blowing past the carrier. Pilot was grounded for 30 days, and presumably got one heck of a chewing out from the air boss.

There's really itty-bitty bulbs. Like 1mm x 3.5mm or so. Micro-mini is the term I think. But they'll only take 1.5 volts, aren't very bright.

For itty-bitty switches, I can't help. But remember a switch is nothing more than a movable piece of metal that completes a circuit path. As for LED's: Most every LED you buy will say right on the back what voltage is best, what's the max voltage, and how much current. (Radio Shack's sure do, the individual ones at least) Dunno about bulk packs though. Just buy one (green?) and see what it wants. Or just look at all the ones they have. Green usually wants about 3-4 volts. (Yes, color affects voltage--it goes red/yellow/green/blue/white for least to most) Also, every battery will say voltage, even a duracell or something. (Anything that's AA/AAA/C/D alkaline is 1.5v each, most rechargable/nicad etc are 1.2v each. A 9v battery is literally 6 1.5v's wrapped together in one case) So see what fits best. If you get a 3v LED, with a 3v battery, it'll be fine without a resistor. (or 2 1.5v, etc) +/- 0.5v is usually ok, anymore and you'll have to figure out what resistor you need. A 2.5v LED with 2 1.2v batteries will be fine, it's close enough, just a tiny bit low. (Don't go TOO low, it might not light up at all). There's lots of LED calculators out there, but the formula is simple: voltage you're sending it, minus the voltage it wants. Then divide by the current it sucks up (in amps). Example: You have 2 1.5v batteries and a 2.2v LED that sucks up 20 milliamps. Thus 3v from the batteries minus the 2.2v the LED wants. 0.8 volts you need the resistor to take care of. Then divide by the 20milliamps (.002 amps) the LED uses. .8/.002=40. You need a 40ohm resistor. (Ohm is just what the term is---it's the only way a resistor is rated). Well there's also watts, but there's no way you'd be sending enough power to worry about it at all. LED 101: http://members.misty.com/don/ledd.html Just text, but it explains it. Finally, as for shattering: never witnessed it myself (and don't plan to) but some blow more violently than others. Most will just act like a lightbulb--a big flash and then it's dead. But older/bigger ones can really go AFAIK. A plastic-lensed one probably can't do anything, but anything with brittle stuff could be nasty. Better safe than sorry, IMHO. (Even the tiny piece of metal from the electrode when hot could really suck if it hits your eye)