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beatsing

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Everything posted by beatsing

  1. Hi Mechtech, thanks for your suggestions. I'm not sure whether the tomahawk is made of abs or styrene. Perhaps I may try this technique with some practice. My sentiments too about clearing up of blemishes I was also concerned about using paint for the same reason as you have mentioned: that it scratches off. Now the Tomahawk doesn't transform, but I had planned on purchasing the Khaki defender and other destroids to mix and match the parts as these droids are modular. With use, the painted parts would like chip off. Also, I'm not sure that I can match up / touch up paint these parts. I've tried doing that in the past, but I found it looks better to just paint the whole part rather than just the damage. That would be a little more difficult for me as this is an already built model. From the many replies, I think I'll keep my Tomahawk, although I may not be able to clear up the blemishes immediately. I'll try the different techniques suggested on some spare sprue trees I keep around first.
  2. Hi eugimon, Perhaps you may be right. I guess I assumed that Yamato's QC was really good based on my personal experience with my collection so far. As I've mentioned before, it's not that there aren't any cuts, in my collection, just that they were done in a fashion that doesn't appear unsightly. Good to hear from another TF fan. I haven't collected that many transformers, mainly because of the low quality, but I have collected some MPs, and only one binaltech, because the detail and quality is so high (and price), I wouldn't consider them toys. As I am paying a premium, I would expect that the staff would treat these products better than those cheaply made products. So far, other than the Tomahawk, I've seen acceptable cut marks on my other kits/toys, or more specifically like CF18 pointed out the cut mark under the valk's gunpod, it was done nicely that I don't mind it. It should be noted that the gunpod is black, and yet the cut mark leftover was either painted or cut nicely as it is still black. Thank you for assuring me by taking the time to check your transformers for these sprue marks. I was really considering returning it to the seller, and would have to pay for the shipping (again). I'm going to try some of the suggestions here on some spare trees before deciding.
  3. Hi VFTF1, you have made the most hilarious comment so far. LOL
  4. Hi David, I like your description. CHUNKS. I think that's what is missing in the cannons (the photos don't show it very clearly). It looks as though the assember left a few mm of sprue for the other white cuts, but on the cannons, they repeatly cut into the cannons to eliminate the sprue, and so there are gouges. This is offtopic but, How did you swap the chest pieces? I'll tell my buddy. Though I have reservations about buying one if the sprue cuts are that visible. I don't remember noticeable the chunks on my buddy's TC though. And yes, the SW is nearly flawless. I like the Takara one because the deco is all black (like TC's all blue deco), but the SW US is really cartoon accurate, and the stripes and decepticon insignia are tampo printed on, like the valks. Perhaps I'll wait for a US TC release if sprue cuts are prevalent.
  5. Hi regult, thanks for your suggestion. The OD Tomahawk's surface is similar to the Valks. It would be difficult to match the sanded and polished surface to the texture of the valks. I've used sanding and polishing, but for a glossy smooth result.
  6. Hi Brenttoyou, thanks for your suggestion. I'm starting to think that, from the number of replies, that this is common. Good to hear from a fellow modeler, as I don't have a lot of experience with models. I have these tools, and have used them on my model kits before assembly phase. I haven't tried them on a prebuilt kit. I think the parts on the back would be a little difficult to do, as they are to the rear/undercarriage, above the hip. Also, the cannons may require some putty as the cuts are deep and go along the length of the cannons for about 2 inches (doesn't show up on the photo very well). It appears that the assembler did cut above the part 1-2mm for the parts on the back, but the cannons are deep. That annoys me as the cannons are the mech's major characteristic. Have you tried these on a prebuilt Yamato? How did you manage those small spaces? What did you do about the gouges?
  7. Hi BlueMax, thanks for your interesting suggestion. you have a technique I have not tried before. I've only used heat to mod plastic parts to curve them or straighten them. I didn't know you could revert the color. I'll try this on spare sprue trees first. Perhaps my expectation is high for Yamato, or it seems that my experience with them has been (relatively) good. All my valks look really smooth (other than the accessories). Other than the first VF1A v2's broken back pack, which I got an exchange for, all my valks don't have cut marks that look deep or still have "pegs" from a cut that has not been cut again to make it level. There is leftover spue "pegs" on the lower back of the Tomahawk that stick out about 1-2mm.
  8. Hi eugimon, thanks for your reply. Yes, all plastic discolors, but if the cut is sharp, or some sanding is done, it is smooth. If the cut is sharp enough, the plastic is largely the same color, and is not very visible.
  9. Hi Vi-RS, Thanks for your reply. Perhaps this is a common issue, if other's kits have the same. Do you remember where the sprue marks are on the V2? I inspected them earlier today, and mine don't show any noticeable marks. I'll look again if you can point them out. I have the VF1A Hikki v2, VF1J Hikki v2, same in 1/48. My buddy has the vf0 production in grey, and I don't notice the sprue cuts. I am leaning towards doing some "repair" work, sanding and painting touch up. If I had more time, I would putty and repaint, but I bought this variation for its color injection. It looked so good on the photos that I didn't have to paint it. I like painting, and customizing Gundam and other scale kits, but for these kits I don't have to worry about chipping paint off with too much posing (unless I paint this kit). I do have a PG Rouge kit and it would have cut marks if you don't sand it down. It's not so bad, because presumably I would sand these parts down before painting and assembly. I haven't tried "repairing" a pre-built toy. Some of these cut marks on the tomahawk are hard to reach, like the knees. Also I don't cut so deep as the cuts done on the cannon.
  10. Hi anime52k8, Good suggestion. Perhaps because the plastic cuts are the same color, they are less noticeable. I thought the same at first. However, I went back to examine my valks and although I have valks that are white/off white/grey, I am deliberately looking for these marks. Perhaps my valks have been done by a pro, as I really don't notice any upon close inspection (not counting the accessories). The outside body of the valks are really smooth and the offwhite/grey valks should show the white marks more obviously. They don't show. Either the assembler has cut very sharply or sanded them smooth.
  11. Hi David, thank you for your suggestion. I think this is the technique that is Hobby Japan magazine suggests for beginning modellers who only use the sprue cutter and gundam markers. First cut away from the sprue, then cut closer. Smooth out with your thumb, then apply gundam marker. I haven't actually tried this technique, as from the magazine, they never really match the paint to the plastic. Your assumption would work out as you mentioned, if these were smooth. The only two that are relatively smooth are the two I don't mind: on the bottom edge of the shins/above the feet. These are usually "hidden" and visible on closer inspection, so I may leave them alone or I may try using your suggested technique.
  12. Hi Robelwell202, I felt the same when CF18 mentioned the sprue cut on the gunpod for the valks. I went back to check for cut marks on my valks but I don't notice any. These cuts are rather obvious, I noticed the ones on the side of the long cannons first, maybe because those were the deepest and longest cuts. In reply to your questions, I am by no means a pro, but have done some modelling, so here goes first, the tomahawk appears to be molded in the actual color. I think this is made by plastic injection with coloring in the plastic. I like the color already as I intend to pose these out of the box rather than paint it. The other problem with model kits that are painted is that if you manipulate it too much, the paint may come off, and the pvc joints get loose. I like these Yamato kits, as the detail is similar to model kits, and the plastic injection color is quite good, and as these have ratcheting joints, I don't paint these and can pose these over and over unlike model kits which are comparably more fragile. Second, that is a really good question. I don't know, has anyone tried? I test painted with my UN green on spare sprue trees, and even with a green gundam marker. Both paints are still off. However, it would probably still look better than the raw plastic white. I think you're right about the sanding and painting for most of the cuts, as the cuts are above the plane of the part. But on the cannons, these are gouges, the photos don't show it, but the assembler appears to have tried to cut deeper and deeper with a knife, as there are other cut marks that go into the green plastic that are not visible on the photos.
  13. Hi David, Gosh, I am beginning to think my toys have been good buys, as I don't notice any sprue cuts on my master megs or skywarp or us skywarp (I'm planning on a custom repaint). I don't have an optimus, but my buddies do, and I don't recall any obvious cuts on them. I am not saying they don't have any, merely that the cuts are in "hidden" spots. Sorry to hear your Thundercracker has those cuts. This is a little off topic, but I was considering collecting Thundercracker as I like the metal flake color, but my buddy had one with reversed chest pieces. Did yours have this misassembly?
  14. Hi Vi-RS, thanks for your comment. I've edited the original post to include photos. The marks are circled in red. I understand that it is a plastic toy. However, I'd like to mention that I have collected other valks and the sprue marks are not noticeable, if any. I have also been collect masterpiece takara toys, which also do not show obvious sprue marks. CF18's comment about the gunpod sprue mark on the v2 valks is accurate, but it is not a major part and appears to be in the same color as the gunpod, not glaring white. It is true that model kits have sprues on the parts due to the injection process, it is up to the assembler/modeler to carefully cut the pieces as to not leave those white marks. As I mentioned to CF18, I don't expect pro modeler results, but rather the standard that Yamato has applied to their valks, which do not appear (in an obvious fashion) on the 1/48 or 1/60 v2 series. I just examined them, and the valks have smooth parts, no signs of harsh cuts. I can see them from across the room. I appreciate your opinion Vi-RS. Does your Tomahawk have these cuts too?
  15. CF18, you have a very sharp eye for detail. The OD weathered does appear to have small marks on the calves, but it doesn't appear the other parts have the marks. Those marks also look like they may have been painted over, as they don't stand out as much as the white marks on my Tomahawk. Thank you for your comments, and I understand that we cannot expect pro modeler results at this price point. Nevertheless, this is by no means a cheap toy and given that my previous purchases did not have this issue, I was expecting the same quality that Yamato has provided in their valks. I've just examined each of them, and I really don't notice any sprue cuts on the bodies of them. It seems that someone did a great job on my valks, but did a rush job on my Tomahawk. This is making me hesitate to collect the Defender, which I was planning on the Khaki one to pose with this OD Tomahawk.
  16. CF18, I haven't used this forum for some time, so this might be displayed twice. thanks for the pics and your comments. Good eye regarding the VF-1 gun pod. I'm looking at my VFs, and I don't notice any glaring cuts on the body of the valks. I think I would overlook the valk's gunpod as it was also painted over on my VF, and that it is in a relatively small and hidden spot. But the Tomahawk's is rather large cuts. For example, the cuts on the trim above the Tomahawk's feet are hidden from view if looking from above, but the cannons are gouges, not small marks. I think you are right about the stress marks, perhaps the assember tore the part from the sprue rather than cut sharply. As this is the OD color the contrast makes it very noticeable. I'm quite disappointed in the QC for this issue, as the VFs marks (if any) aren't very visible. I suppose I was expecting the same quality that the valks came in. I considered the paint cover up job, like they suggest for beginner modellers to use Gundam markers on cheap kits, but I'd have to match up the color, and the gouges on the cannons would still not be smooth. I'm considering asking for a replacement, but I'd like to know how common this problem is, as I wouldn't want to pay for the expensive shipping (it cost me more than half the cost of the product) only to receive another Tomahawk with stress marks. Do you have any other suggestions?
  17. Hi, here are the pics, I've circled the sprue cuts in red. ff95gj, thanks, mine is loose at the waist too. As I've read that this is a common issue but not considered a problem, I can overlook the waist. The feet seem fluid (not tight, but not loose). CF18, thanks for the pics and your comments. Good eye regarding the VF-1 gun pod. I'm looking at my VFs, and I don't notice any glaring cuts on the body of the valks. I think I would overlook the valk's gunpod as it was also painted over on my VF, and that it is in a relatively small and hidden spot. But the Tomahawk's is rather large cuts. For example, the cuts on the trim above the Tomahawk's feet are hidden from view if looking from above, but the cannons are gouges, not small marks. I think you are right about the stress marks, perhaps the assember tore the part from the sprue rather than cut sharply. As this is the OD color the contrast makes it very noticeable. I'm quite disappointed in the QC for this issue, as the VFs marks (if any) aren't very visible. I suppose I was expecting the same quality that the valks came in. I considered the paint cover up job, like they suggest for beginner modellers to use Gundam markers on cheap kits, but I'd have to match up the color, and the gouges on the cannons would still not be smooth. I'm considering asking for a replacement, but I'd like to know how common this problem is, as I wouldn't want to pay for the expensive shipping (it cost me more than half the cost of the product) only to receive another Tomahawk with stress marks. Do you guys have any other suggestions?
  18. Hi, I've just received my OD Tomahawk in the mail yesterday, and upon inspection, there are ugly sprue cut marks on the cannons, the back of the cannons, back of calves, next to the knees' swivel joint. I've collected 5 valks now, and haven't had any problems. As this is the OD version, the ugly white cut marks are very visible. Has anyone had this problem? I've read the reviews, and haven't seen this problem mentioned before. Did I get a faulty unit? Please reply soon as I need to discuss this with the seller. Thanks.
  19. Hi Sam, Nightmareb4, thanks for the welcome guys. Nightmareb4, your point about the snapping off of the head laser is good. Elsewhere in this forum someone had suggested interchangeable heads, so that is cool. I'd buy those. But please read on. Sam, thanks for the pointer about nail polish. My vf's head holds the peg pretty good with friction alone, too. It doesn't come off too easily unless I pull it off the peg, or the swingbar pulls it off. When I'm pulling the swingbar up and away from the body, the swingbar is covered by the back of the head. This problem was asked in a review on collectiondx.com, and the reviewer has a youtube on the vf 1s perfect transformation process (thanks for mentioning this Nightmareb4). The second youtube video review is about the vf1a, and the reviewer removes the head before pulling the swingbar, but the vf1s didn't require removal. So someone asked whether it was perfect trance, and the website reviewer explained that the head lifts up for the swingbar to swing clear. They have a photo of the vf1s's head in and out position from the recess http://www.collectiondx.com/node/2857. However, pulling my vf1a's head (as the "neck" is not accessible nor visible in airplane mode) to allow the swingbar room to clear results in the head coming off and the neck stays in the recess. The youtube video of the vf1s also shows that the head was not lifted out of the recess prior to the swingbar pulled out. I have looked at the vf1s head and the vf1a head, and the vf1s head does not protrude from the neck as much as the vf1a, so the bar does not pull the head off when the bar is lifted. I also flipped the neck swivel a few times to loosen its friction, but the same. Can I ask you guys if you have a vf1a or vf1s? And if you have a vf1a, has yours done that? thanks
  20. Thanks Sam for your prompt reply. It worked! It's looks awesome in battroid mode. Any advice on the head popping issue?
  21. Hi all, I'm new to this forum. I'm confused and would like some advice on the new 1 /60 vf 1a transformation process. I'm stuck at step 7 gerwalk to battroid. I can't read japanese so I don't know what the manual says. I don't know how the cockpit/chestplate/ metal piece bend in step 7. I'm not sure what the encircled part in the diagrams are indicating, so I haven't got it to battroid mode yet. Is there a peg or something that releases the cockpit from the chestplate...? On the positive note, the vf 1a does not appear to have the shoulder problem that is discussed elsewhere in the forum. The parts on this vf are quite stiff. However, the head pops out everytime the swingbar is lifted out in step 3 of gerwalk to battroid. Although the head can be lifted with the neck hinge to allow the swingbar clearance, the hinge is really stiff, and the head pops off more easily than the hinge moving, the hinge is still at the bottom of the assembly. Although the hinge can move, that is after reaching in there when the head pops off. What can be done about that? Another question I have is regarding an old vf, not sure if it's a takutoku, as the scale of it is even smaller than the 1/60, and the local store owner can't identify its source but commented that it is almost identical to a tak. Any clues as to its origin? Thanks
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