Jump to content

schmungbeen

Members
  • Posts

    102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by schmungbeen

  1. schmungbeen

    SCOOP thread!

    Hi guys -maybe there is a thread for this already - but are you aware of the VF-1S roy and hikaru reissues of the 1/60 line V2 - aparently they are a "plus" version... whatever that means... Link on HLJ site: http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00179 If anything as a 'scoop' it only became available, I think as of a little while ago (like, today).
  2. got a replacement arm last year and it was knurled. It broke and I got another one a few weeks ago... That one wasn't knurled. I got those through hlj... Not sure if overdrives ones are, though assuming they order fresh ones from yamato, then... I'd imagine they wouldn't be knurled either.
  3. Just a thin screwdriver is all thats needed... Nothing fancy - just one that you can fit into the small holes without scraping the plastic or paint of the valk
  4. Ive attached some pics. First pic shows the 3 screws you need to undo - then proceeds to show some of the steps i did. Sorry they're not labelled or anything- but you should get the gist.
  5. Yup, as Chogokin said, you need to remove the 3 screws from the main body section. After that, you'll see the swivel pieces - unscrew them and screw the new ones in. Easy as pie. Then rescrew the backpiece on. Just make sure you use a hobby screwdriver!
  6. Which part is it? Is it for a 1/60 valk? If its a replacement arm for the 1/60 then I have some pictures that might help.
  7. I agree - I only have the tomahawk and that thing rocks.
  8. Agreed: this looks really really nice. Whats the difference between the C and B, in terms of actual model design?
  9. Yeah my experiences with HLJ have been good too... When I told them my VF-1S had the broken shoulder they sent me a replacement arm free of charge! I find the price diff btw them and overcharge is nothing when sent out by SAL. IF sent out by SAL!!! I am still considering getting either the CF 1A or the CF 1J... I can't decide! I think the 1A is almost too dark, while the 1J is too light! (though from what ive seen the TV super parts look better on the 1J)...
  10. Some did some didn't - Prime and megatron G1's tended to still go for the collectors price, but toys like blitzwing and some of the cars tended to go way down - like by half! - it also depended how mint they were.
  11. You could always display it in the feezer in an attempt to improve the magnetic force
  12. Well I had to get rid of my low viz v1 (on ebay now actually) to get some more 1/60's... Still fingers crossed (though wont be disappointed if they dont) for a 1/60 rendition
  13. Im in the same boat! I just cancelled 2 VF-1's due to extreme lack of funds. This VF-11 looks better all the time (I like that wheel do-hikky that they have there too) - but 300au is just too much!
  14. Same with mine - nowhere near as noticeable as on the other valks
  15. I agree with all of the above. Im no genius, nor CAD engineer (I am an engineer tho... +1 for me), but to claim CAD costs them money is a bit of a farce. Particularly seeing as all they really to is remould heads and make slightly different paint apps... Copy. Paste. add colour. New design... What field did you work in that used ABS??? Ditto again with the VF-11B - Im gonna wait for a review first. Masterpiece grimlock and the VF-1s have preference, as they should (...). It looks cool so far though.
  16. Agreed... The joint thats loose-ish is the one connecting the t-bar to the leg - but as you said, the figure bends at the ratcheted joint below - so I can still get the range of poses out of the 1D that I can out of all the other valks. BUT if i wanted to open up the wings (which provide a back-up prop for the legs) I would risk the thing falling off the shelf! And we wouldnt want that...
  17. Quick qualification: I said 180 dollar australian toy... I meant to say $180 AU for a japanese toy... Just in case it comes up... I wouldnt pay $180 for an australian toy no matter how much steak was in it. re. the joints, theres not much to do wrong - its just made that way.
  18. Yeah, more or less; the legs wobble when i shake it lightly. Perhaps a better description is if i hold it horizontally with the legs in line with the body without support, they will swing down with almost no resistance. the thing poses fine still, it's not really really loose, but if it werent for the wings folded behind the legs, some of the poses I put it in wouldnt last very long! None of my other 1/60s have that problem, neither A,J, or both S's - it may just be my sample. Its not terrible, though maybe on a $180 australian toy it is... Im still happy at least...
  19. Just got my 1D, and am absolutely stoked for the most part - the landing gear is the easiest to take out by far of all the valks, and the shoulders arent too tight. Love the tampo goodness! One complaint though - the legs are a little floppy on my one. Does anyone else have that problem? (note:havent seen wizartars review yet...)
  20. I've found that the 1S Hikaru is the best made of the valks so far. The only valk I've had tightness problems with has been the 1J, but that was only in the shoulders. It could vary valk to valk though
  21. Hi Guys, thought you may want to know Preorders at HLJ up for: Cannon Fodder 1/60 VF-1J GN-DOU VF-1J and GN-DOU VF-1A Max http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Maker1=YMT&am...e=Sci&Dis=2
  22. I like the sliding mechanism too, makes it different and fun, and I dont think the appearance suffers too much. On some of the valks it seems a little tight (VF-1A, case in point) - but on the VF-1S's its perfect!
  23. see, I knew all too well. Blessed is he who believes without seeing! Black it is! Thanks for those extra pics. I am liking the black - but it does make my choice of what sticker to put on the strike packs more difficult!
  24. Without sounding too much like an idiot, nor being someone who is able to read Japanese - that heatshield (to me) looks blue under all that shadow. I may be wrong - it may be the shadow. It may also be the relative proximity of that shadow to the blue above it. I dont know. Im not a doctor. But Ill tell you something I do know. I will be getting this.
  25. That hip bar can be a problem, but I've never really spent more than 30 seconds getting it in - Its an artform I think, that develops over time. Neither have I had to use excessive force on most of the things (except maybe unclipping the legs from the fuselage with the fastpacks on). I've never heard of a toy getting tighter the more you move the joints! - Thats awesome, and should probably be patented. Though... maybe not for a transforming toy...
×
×
  • Create New...