Pat Payne Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Well, I've got an annoying problem going on with a A6M2-N Rufe floatplane. I'd built it completely with no real problems, and began to paint the uppers in XF-11 Imperial Japanese Navy Green (a color meant to look like the dark-green uppers that Nakajima put on their Zeroes) The first coat went on like a charm, but left a few gaps, so I decided to put on a second coat after lettign the paint cure overnight. The second coat (I stopped after doing half the fuselage) looked very poor. It left streaks that looked like dingy water across the plane, and the coat itself looked chalky. This happened also on a Devastator that I was building. Anyone have a similar experience? If i slather on a third coat, will I be OK, or should I just break out the Dawn Power Dissolve and strip the kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noyhauser Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 I had the same problem. Its the flat base that is used, and you and I thinned out the paint too much. Its oooh so tempting to do but I've learned my lesson. You might want to strip it and try again. I couldn't find a way around it. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...opic=3588&st=0& Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Payne Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 I had the same problem. Its the flat base that is used, and you and I thinned out the paint too much. Its oooh so tempting to do but I've learned my lesson. You might want to strip it and try again. I couldn't find a way around it. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...opic=3588&st=0& Except for me, thinning wasn't an issue. I used the paint straight from the bottle, as I brush-paint everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetsujin Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 I had the same problem. Its the flat base that is used, and you and I thinned out the paint too much. Its oooh so tempting to do but I've learned my lesson. You might want to strip it and try again. I couldn't find a way around it. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...opic=3588&st=0& Except for me, thinning wasn't an issue. I used the paint straight from the bottle, as I brush-paint everything. You shouldn't do that. For any kind of painting, you should transfer the paint to another container and thin it before applying it. Otherwise, your brush will deposit debris into the paint bottle which will appear in your paintjob later on. Also thinning helps you to get a smooth paintjob - if you apply the paint unthinned, it can partially dry out while you're applying it or immediately afterward, resulting in your brushstrokes being too-visible. It's hard for me to say exactly what's going on with your model. Did you stir your paint thoroughly before applying it? That's my best guess at this point, if this is a flat paint it may have separated out, in which case the flat base may be appearing in too-high quantities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsu legato Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 I think your problem is that you're brush painting Tamiya to begin with. While I've seen some examples of beautifully hand-painted model, I never ever could get Tamiya to go on properly in anything but small areas. I hate brush painting acrylics. My advice is to invest in an airbrush. You'll never regret it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less than Super Ostrich Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 amen... an airbrush and a cheap compressor will make your life soooo much better (assuming that modeling will be a long-term hobby). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Payne Posted June 1, 2004 Author Share Posted June 1, 2004 (edited) I had the same problem. Its the flat base that is used, and you and I thinned out the paint too much. Its oooh so tempting to do but I've learned my lesson. You might want to strip it and try again. I couldn't find a way around it. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...opic=3588&st=0& Except for me, thinning wasn't an issue. I used the paint straight from the bottle, as I brush-paint everything. You shouldn't do that. For any kind of painting, you should transfer the paint to another container and thin it before applying it. Otherwise, your brush will deposit debris into the paint bottle which will appear in your paintjob later on. Also thinning helps you to get a smooth paintjob - if you apply the paint unthinned, it can partially dry out while you're applying it or immediately afterward, resulting in your brushstrokes being too-visible. It's hard for me to say exactly what's going on with your model. Did you stir your paint thoroughly before applying it? That's my best guess at this point, if this is a flat paint it may have separated out, in which case the flat base may be appearing in too-high quantities. That might be the problem, come to think of it...It was a relatively new pot (bought it maybe a week ago) and so with new paints I have a habit of shaking them for about thirty seconds rather than stirring. Older paints I do stir because the (I don't remember the actual terms so bear with a blood metaphor) plasma and serum seperate over time. How much should I end up thinning the paint by, and with what? As for an airbrush, that's a good idea. but I'm going to have to hold off on it for a while, only because I really don't have the room or the money to buy one right now. Edited June 1, 2004 by Pat Payne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tetsujin Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 It's hard for me to say exactly what's going on with your model. Did you stir your paint thoroughly before applying it? That's my best guess at this point, if this is a flat paint it may have separated out, in which case the flat base may be appearing in too-high quantities. That might be the problem, come to think of it...It was a relatively new pot (bought it maybe a week ago) and so with new paints I have a habit of shaking them for about thirty seconds rather than stirring. Older paints I do stir because the (I don't remember the actual terms so bear with a blood metaphor) plasma and serum seperate over time. How much should I end up thinning the paint by, and with what? As for an airbrush, that's a good idea. but I'm going to have to hold off on it for a while, only because I really don't have the room or the money to buy one right now. Airbrushes are indeed expensive. For a full setup (compressor, airbrush, booth, respirator) you'd be talking at least $150-$200. Great stuff, though. But skilled modelers can get good results by brush-painting. I did a model-building class at Anime Boston a few months ago, so I had to improve my hand-painting skills while working with acrylics, so I would know what kind of advice to give. (I still need more practice) The best I've done handpainting Tamiya was with this Regult: http://1-4-4.home.comcast.net/models/Works/Workshop_Regult/ I did have problems with the Regult - I rushed through a lot of it and had a few instances of paint lifting off, things like that... and there are places, particularly with the dull-coat, where you can see brush strokes and the like. But I'm happy with the model. Yeah, you always need to stir those paints thoroughly. I find that shaking the paint can help in addition to stirring, but it's no good on its own. It simply doesn't dislodge the stuff that's settled to the bottom. As for thinning - you may need to experiment. For hand-painting I like to thin Tamiya with either rubbing alcohol or Windex. Windex is nice because it has sort of a soapy nature which helps the paint flow more smoothly. Alcohol evaporates very quickly, too. I generally add as much thinner as there is paint, or a little less - but practice, experiment, and try to figure out what works best for you. (Actually I may thin the paint too much - it generally takes me a bunch of coats to get a solid color. I should experiment more with different ratios.) And remember to thin the paint in a separate container, as thinned paint will generally cure in the bottle faster than unthinned paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Shaking=worthless. You can shake for 30 mins, and it won't be as good as 30 secs of stirring. And stir EVERYTHING. Even black. (Actually, especially black---it always looks ok, but it actually separates quite quickly and easily, and you won't realize until you're actually painting with it, or even after its dried) For brush-painting acrylic, the brush used is a BIG factor. And I swear synthetic fibers are better for it. Best I've ever found for a larger area is a Floquil Silver Fox 3/8in (or maybe it's the 1/4in--either way, it's got LONG bristles, nearly an inch long). Also, the el-cheapo white plastic Testors are the second-best after that. After all these years, and dozens of brushes, very few things beat them for brush-painting acrylic. Finally---even the ultra-cheap $18 Testors "airbrush-esque" thing at Wal-Mart gives a far superior finish to even my best brush-painting. $18, including air can and bottles and pipettes. At that price, the thing's practically disposable when you want to change colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Payne Posted June 2, 2004 Author Share Posted June 2, 2004 Thanks, everybody for the sugestions. I went, stripped the green paint, stirred very carefully and now the paint went on even better than in the first coat. I can't see any brush strokes at all! Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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