Ghost Train Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I recently started using GM's since they seemed so convenient, after applying it to an unpainted kit and realizing how easy it is to dab away errors with some alcohol, I was sold. I decided to test some of the characteristics of the marker in conjunction with painted surfaces and see what would happen. I'm referring to the ultra thin markers (GM02-200 (grey) for reference). I'm not bothering ever with the huge jumbo markers. Constants: -All paints assumed acrylic, thinned at a 70:30 ratio. Used a clear flat for my experiment -Using marker GM 02-200 -Painted surface is standard Bandai white gunpla runner Experiment 1: -Panel lines on an untreated piece of plastic with GM (straight out of the cutter, no paint, primer, etc, NADA!). -Dry -Apply coat of flat-clear Result: Lines will loose adhesion and run off, some might stay on, put generally they will now adhere so weakly to the plastic that slight motions can run them off. Experiment 2: This reflects the more proper way to paint, but I shortened some steps for the purpose of experimenting -Prime Surface -Dry 12 H -Apply 2 coats of whatever color -Dry 12H after each coat -Panel lines in with GM <-- Here now -Flat coat application Result: In progress, but here is the dilemma. While drawing in lines on top of coats of paints, the selling point of the marker, the extreme alcohol solubility disappears. Normally I use a q-tip with isopropyl alcohol to clean up my mistakes but if a mistake was made on an already painted surface, I would have to rub a little bit harder for it to disappear, which damages the paint ... so yeah, I'm not so sure about using the markers, I might upgrade to a more professional "wash" method, but it's just another skill that I might need to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 Very interesting, I was thinking of doing this as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parker Midwinter Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 behold Pro-Modeler's Pre-made clay-based wash solutions... brush on, rub off, watch the 20 minute video... instant weathering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Train Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 behold Pro-Modeler's Pre-made clay-based wash solutions... brush on, rub off, watch the 20 minute video... instant weathering. WOW... that was awesome. Definitely going to get me a few bottles of those for my next project, it seems like you almost get the great finish obtained by applying enamel wash... only that it's somewhat foolproof. Thanks for posting this XD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jardann Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 There is an important step that you are skipping. After you apply the color coats, you should then apply a clear gloss coat. A coat of Future floor polish (I believe now called "Pledge with Future shine") is ideal. Let that cure overnight, and it will give you a nice hard smooth surface that should be much easier for you to wipe off the excess marker paint. After you finish the panel lines, then you can put on your clear flat coat. Good luck and keep experimenting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwin3060 Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 behold Pro-Modeler's Pre-made clay-based wash solutions... brush on, rub off, watch the 20 minute video... instant weathering. big +1 to this... I just got ahold of some and tried it on my eurofighter model kit, which is kinda my test kit for any new coatings, paints etc that I want to test out-- it even works on bare plastic, for all those who want an accurate, no fuss, near-straight build+stickers applied 1/72 VF-25 model to replace the horribly proportioned DX toy. It stays on even through some handling, as long as your hands are dry. I'm doing to matte coat it next, which should improve its resistance to rubbing off while handling the model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Train Posted December 13, 2008 Author Share Posted December 13, 2008 I have concluded my personal tests on the viability of Gundam markers. Jardann, thanks for the tip, I might try that next time, I haven't check this thread in a bit. My personal conclusion for the ultra fine point markers (GM01-200), those should be avoid avoid avoid avoid The main problems are run-off if coated with an additional layer of something, or lack of erase ability if it's used on any type of treated surface. They do make Gundam Marker removers, but have yet to try those. The only case where I'd recommend using the fine points might be on an unpainted model that you just want to line... but that's it. In almost every other scenario, some sort of wash is much more superior. Now, I do highly recommend the Sumiire markers (the one I got is GM21-200). Those have a thicker brush tip and deliver the ink in a sludge-like appearance. They wipe off easy with a cloth, and work quite remarkably like a home made wash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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