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Mods please let this stay. Alot of the finishing techniques im going to use are also useable on destroids and such especially the huge HWR MKII Monster coming out soon. I will also be showcasing something that almost always seems to get attention from peple on here. The construction and finishing of one of the MOST expensive Tamiya R/C tanks. The Leopard 2A6. This build will take around a week from start to finish. I had no idea where else to put it so others can see it since its not anime or scifi.

Thanks for looking

Sean.

P.S. I will understand if it gets deleted.

Edited by HWR MKII
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i am also looking forward to this build up, it is a great way to see other peoples work (which many times gives me something to strive for) and also a good oppertunity to learn some new tecniques from people.

chris

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Thanks for your support guys. Here is the first pic for now. Its the box it came in and the basic hull and turret with no details added yet. Note the little green thing in front of it is a pack of stick gum. The kit comes with a turned aluminum gun barrel, cast aluminum drive sprokets fiber optics and LEDs for the lights, and a few computer modules to control motion, effects and sound. Ill post pics of the internals as i get to them if i get too many parts out now ill lose track.

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You will need alot of them on this one. I didnt go the tupperware route last time since i used all i had in the house on the Tiger 1 and the wife wasnt too happy. The kit also comes with a parts guide seperate from the instructions and it does come in handy.

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Heres the 14 road wheels( i got the kit last night actually) it took about 2 hours to build all 14. Each wheel has 2 brass bushings in it ,a metal axle and 4 screws. The only other bit i have done so far is the gear box and thats the first 10 steps of the instructions. No pics of that sorry i didnt have a 4th hand to hold the camera while i was putting all the gears on the axles

ZEO

In the states the kit goes for around 1500 dollars minus the 4 channel controller and battery you need to buy seperate. I got the kit off of evilbay for around 800 along with shipping the total came to around 1000 dollars. i love tax time :D I picked up a 6 channel acft controller from my neighbor here in the UK and im going to the market on sunday to visit the Tamiya store there and get the battery and paints ill need.

sean

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I have no idea i havnt driven it yet. If its anything like their tiger is it wont be very fast. It is a tank lol. Then again i have seen footage of real leopard 2s catching air off snow drifts doing around 50mph. Both tracks completely off the ground. I think im in for a suprise :D

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I will be posting alot over the next 3 days. only breaking for sleep, food, wife time, and time to go work on real tanks.

One thing that i cant emphasize enough is to work on a kit like this in a immaculate area. THERE ARE NO SPARE SCREWS! In one bag there are screws less than a millimeter long and thinner than.05 pencil lead.

Tamiya does give you some tools to do the job but you will also need standard fine tipped phillips head screwdrivers, jewelers screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, and other odds and ends that may come in useful for some unknown purpose. If you read and follow the instructions to a T you shouldnt have too many troubles on the kit. Be sure to read through each step at least 3 times before you start on it. If you get confused in the size of a screw compare it to the picture in the particular step you are working on. The picture is the exact size of the screw it represents.

Once you complete a step where you may have to make 5 or 10 somethings like the shock absorbers on the outer hull take a 10 minute break. It works trust me.

This isnt a speed build but if i lose momentum it is hard to get the pace back up.

Sean

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here is the lower hull with all the basic parts added. The bars going across it are the torsion bars. The torsion bars act like they do on the real tank giving it what is known as an "active" suspension.

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Here is a side view of the lower hull. I have left the road wheels off until after painting. Next step for this part is primer. Each of those silver rods you see is a actual working shock absorber. Leaving the road wheels off also allows me to paint the wheels seperately and add the rubber tires to them afterward.

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These are obviously the tracks. They have to be the most beautiful tracks i have ever seen. They are metal links with rubber pads added to them just like the real thing! I cant wiat to wear these in :D if you look at a real tank these pads get chewed to hell and back, sometimes the pads are missing on some links. No i wont go out of my way to rip them up but im not worried about wearing them a bit it all goes into the final look.

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Final posts for the night. I know i said id leave the road wheels off until i painted it but i decided to attach them for now so i dont have a huge box full of sub assemblies. What do you guys think of the size difference between this thing and the Tiger 1 in the foreground?

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Final post for the night. i have reached a good stopping point. All of the lower hull is constructed next steps are installing the lightbar assemblies for the fiberoptics. I just noticed that the rear deck of the Leopard is almost as high as the turret of the Tiger. You might be able to tell in the side by side pic above. The tiger weathering is a 50/50 mix of wash and drybrush methods and real weather and dirt. The leopard will have a similar treatment.

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Those are 540s the tiger is powered by the 380s. I dont know if they are mabuchi motors though they came with the kit so its from whoever supplies Tamiya. All of the major sub assemblies are together. There was nothing special involved in the construction just follow the instructions very carefully. I rigged up all the electronics tonight and the sound quality is worlds better than the tiger. I am also impressed with the lighting system. It allows you to have different light setups based on in combat mode or not. The recoil on the main gun is beautiful as well along with a nicely reproduced sound effect of a 120mm smoothbore rhinemetal cannon. I will post pics of the primed stage tomorrow and the stages of painting after i give it the base coat.

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Its 10 am here and im off to the market to get the paints i need which were actually specially blended by tamiya for the introduction of this kit. I am also going to pick up the crew figure made for it as well. More pics in about an hour and a half or so. :D

A 1/35 R/C M60A2?! :o is it full function? and what size servos are you using?

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Next one with the turred in a different angle. The turret itself is almost as long as the afore mentioned Tiger 1. I do have the base coat of nato green applied already but im having technical difficulties. Tamiya wants us to fit around 10 miles of cable in a 1 mile box. Pics of the basecoat coming soon after field trials

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Edited by HWR MKII
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These oval shaped tabs on the sides are what holds the turret together. All of the electronics are inside it and leave no room for anything else. You have to have the cables routed perfectly or the top wont fit on at all.

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Heres the basecoat of Tamiya NATO green. I used the spray can version because of the size it allows for better coverage. For the pattern i will be spraying on im using NATO black and NATO brown. As i said before these paints colors were actually formulated for the relesae of the kit and match the german colors exactly. The little clear dome on top of the turret is a safety light required by oversize vehicles on european roads.

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Notice the dirty scuffed tracks. I took the tank out to the proving grounds i have out back and it performed perfectly. The brake lights even work! :D Ill have pics tomorrow with all the lights on.

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Edited by HWR MKII
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Final one for the night. It took me 2 hours to airbrush the pattern on by hand. I didnt use any masks just did it the same way it is done on the real vehicle. First spray the outline of the color your applying and then fill it in. I used my airbrush on the finest setting at around 10 PSI and got the perfect pattern.

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A 1/35 R/C M60A2?! :o is it full function? and what size servos are you using?

No turret control, though I could probably cram a micro mini servo into the turret to turn it. It's just run off of an old two channel radio I gutted into a project box. It's driven off of a couple of standard size servos that had to be hacked up pretty good to make them (almost) fit.

That Leopard looks great. I love it! That camo looks perfect. B))

Will there be any action pics, once it's finished?

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