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Myersjessee

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Posts posted by Myersjessee

  1. I think Ill splurge for the FP version....the completist in me wants both...but at least this way I have one of everything....except the different boxes....and now Ill have four fast packs for...6 valks...DOH!...ah Kevin.... :blink::(:(

    :p

  2. You can buy most everything from any online model shop....just search for plastic models and youll get tons of results. You should also check locally...most towns have a model shop somewhere nearby and carry them.

    You need both MicroSol and Microset (according to the directions! ). Panel likes you need Varisol and oil paints...available at an art supply store.

  3. Wow... a one year plus 'adventure'... hmmm.. i'm challenged. What's his email?

    Look under the modeling manufacturers, it's listed under UNCM, I'll pray for you.

    Itll take more then prayers!

    Keep your email simple...he doesnt speak english well and doesnt have a translator anymore...you might try and hire MonkeyNuigget to buy it for you...since he is already in Japan and has contacts (and can translate)

  4. Max, you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    some icon12.gif for the mods!

    I second that! Thanks for watching out for us Max. Arafat is an odd bird...when the whole thing went bad with Rob he was very very angry. I tried to PM him and work as an intermidiary...and there was nothing that would satisfy him...(literally nothing) I explained that Rob is a known good guy and this must be a misunderstanding..I offered to have Noel send the next thing to me, and Arafat could send me payment...and I woudl cross ship...Arafat's answer was if I could get that to work I could keep the explative stuff Noel sent because he didn't want anything to do with it. Honestly...I don't know whats up...but for some reason it all seemed very abrupt and ..well wrong to me. Anyways....I hope Arafat can come back and clear things up....Kidk...if you know him your words good with me.

    On the straight shooters list..more good props for (sorry...I know these folks have all been mentioned...but they are the only folks I have dealt with recently)

    Kevin Lam...Valkyrie Exchange..there is no substitute!!

    Rob Watson....Monkey Nuggett..this guy alwaysgo the extra mile. Like Kevin (above) I feel like Im dealing with a friend not a seller...buy with confidence

    MSLZ22 - Mike Salzo...excellent guy...good caster...excellent prices

    TrueBlueEyes - Another person I can't thank enough!

    Seiichi - Shawn and Seiichi...thanks for making one of my dreams a reality! You guys ROCK!

    rkiyo - Excellent, fair, and propmt seller...buy with confidence

    Malich - Another great MW resource!

    Anasazi - Devin is the decal pusher paramount! His work is amazing!

    VF17 - Great MW member...thanks!!

    GreenGuy42 - Great Guy

    Kanata - Ditto!

    Im sure there are more...but these are the ones that come to mind that I have dealt with recently.

  5. Well, after pestering the hella out of MIM by phone & email I got my kits today. :)

    The MIM VF-4s are recasts of the RETPPU vinyl VF-4 kit. They included some nice decals (main markings only), and the resin is of good quality with no visible flaws, flash or bubbles.

    What a shame that MIM has such poor customer service when their products are normally unique and cool. Next time I'll think thrice before ordering from them. <_<

    Wow...and thats a pretty pricey recast for an original thats still pretty cheap...it would have been nicer if they had done the Musisaya or Club M instead...

  6. Considering the thickness and size of the parts, Im not sure how much of what Jarrod scratch built could be recast....I was all into it...but then hearing his description...well..Im not sure its plausible.

    Jarrod...would you consider writing up some instructions and doing some paper templates for the parts you scratch built? It might be easier, and I for one would buy a set.

  7. I started one that I may finish in a million years or so.....the legs are the biggest mod IMO, they need to be thinned from both the front and the sides, the arms also need to be thinned and the shoulder launchers need to have material added to make them fit the hasegawa's thinner shoulders. the complexity of the chest depends on 2 things, 1 if you want the armor to be removable and 2, if you want the missle doors to open.

    Making the armor removable would be coo...but a berar...no? (I thought the armor and the interior parts were cast together...they are on the 1/100)

  8. LOL, Jesse... I was just making light of the situation. At least Kana... er... this hypothetical boy has 8 JMs to work on. I saw them on the shelves as a kid and now I'm kicking myself for some other toys instead... :p Who knew these little stubby suckers whould end up meaning so much?

    Dont mind me EXO...Im just a defensive dad! :):rolleyes::p

  9. Let me just say (in defense of the hypothetical person who did this for his hypothetical son in this hypothetical situation) that there is someting to be said for having the parts. My dad made a pinhole in each of my star wars figures weapons and attached the weapon via fishing line to the charcters hand..(via another pinhole) It pissed me off at first, when I wanted Luke to disarm the stormtrooper and steal there blastter...and while he could, he could not go more then a foot from the trooper...years later...when all my friends didn't have one weapon left for their figures, and I still had all of mine, I appreciated it....surely glueing a JM so it can't transform is going to an extreme...but lets not be to harsh....In taking after my dad I have glued parts of my sons's Zoids...I try to leave them so he can customize them..but at the same time use enough glue, and metal pins so the main beast stays intact and functioning...let me tell you..it takes about 3Xs the amount of time to "Kid proof" them as it does to build them...but my son is 7..and hasn't lost a Zoid to damage yet! :)

    Now...as for the glue....get some model seam knives....the ultra thin saws like WMCheng shows from Hasegawa to redo 1/72 scale seam lines....then.....I would suggest a pin vise and the seam saws to slowly...carefully free it up...work from the bottom...so if you mess up its less visible.

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