Holocause
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Thanks for the kind comments, glad you guys like it.
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Just wanted to share my Finished VF-1D in custom color scheme.
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Testors Florescent paint set
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An alternative to lightup kits is painting in florescent paint. You get some nifty effects. Here are some that I've worked on:
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Comes with the hobby really. Once you start getting seriously with the modeling, you'll come to realize that really, the cheapest part of the hobby is the kit itself.
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Just finished this Cutie
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I kinda liken it to Formula1... The bleeding edge automotive technologies are created in F1 racing which eventually make it to mass production cars later on. F1 being the gundams... and the Toyota Corolas being the GM's LOL
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Just finished building me a HGUC Sinanju
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Yeah I built a HGUC Unicorn Destroy mode a month back. I'd have to say its one of the more disappointing builds I've had in a while. The articulation and engineering is just poor compared to other kits and leads to really very limited poseability options. If your just after a straight out of the box build then its as straightforward as any other HG kit. If you're after detailing and fully painting out the kit, then there are problems galore. First off, the polycaps are RED!!! Then there are sharp angles everywhere with transparent red pieces in every limb that makes painting and panel lining a chore. Then there's the poorly designed arm joint. What irks me most about this kit is it seems BanDai almost forces you to buy both HG kits as each one has parts the other needs to get a complete set. Let me explain... the Destroy Mode is equipped with the Beam Magnum and extended shield... that's as far as weaponry this kit has... sure there are Four beam saber handles that come with this kit, but there are no BLADES, the blades are included in the normal mode kit. The Normal mode kit has 2 blades and beam handles, but it has no 'gun'. What it does have is a bazooka which has 2 modes. and this is the kit with the flayed extended palm hand while the destroy mode only has a gun and fist hand. It really seems that BanDai winged it on this design or it may be that they are holding out and know how popular this Unicorn Series will be and will have multiple variants of the base Unicorn design pushed out in the future. Really disappointed with the Unicorns seeing as the other Suits in the Unicorn Series all seem superbly designed. Now as for recommendations on HG Kits... I've recently been surprised at the quality of the 00 series of HG kits. Yeah sure the boxes leave something less to be desired (compared to the UC boxes), but the articulation on the 'Hero' Suits in this series are top notch. Simply having double-jointed knees has given this series a better standing on my 'to do list' of kits. And as mentioned by other posters, the 00 series of HG kits are relatively cheaper than similar caliber UC kits.
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Had fun with a Christmas Build... Real Grade ZakuII Char Custom Initial Assembly Panel Lining Decaling Final Assembly and Coating Micro Char More Photos
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Hi, this weekend (oct.08.10) is the New York Comic Con and Anime Festival. A friend of mine was good enough to get me a ticket to this thing and I'm kinda excited as I've never been to one of these things. I've been to other expo's and trade conventions before related to work and boring stuff but I've never been to a Comic Con which is something that may actually be fun. But again I've never been to one of these things so I don't know what to expect. Seeing as some of you here have actually been to some of these or even previous New York Con ones hopefully you can provide some insight. So my primary objective going into this thing is to grab as much stuff as I can from this thing. Any strategies on getting cool shwag? The ticket I got was for opening day on friday. It says that it won't open to the public until 1pm. So should I show up at the specified time, a little bit later or earlier? How's the shopping in one of these things? In general are things sold in these events cheaper or more expensive than retail and by how much on average? What would be a realistic budget to allocate coming into one of these things? $100 $200 $500? Is haggling accepted or should one just go for whatever sticker price they put on items they sell there (I have no idea if its gonna be a flea market environment there or not)? Stuff I'm interested in are Transformers, Gundams, McFarlane and of course Yammie Valks so would you think they would be in abundance there? And what's the deal with "exclusives"? I've looked at the website and there's like an NYCC 'exclusive' Gundam model, are these priced higher than what a regular variant be in this event? Are they worth their 'exclusivity'? Would appreciate the insight.
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Awaiting for the episode that pits no-name pilot of a UN Spacy CF VF1A vs no-name pilot of a Fedy Mass Production GM
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I too started out on a ver1 to test it out. With the ver1 though, not all the panel lines are deeply recessed so its a bit harder to keep all the lines in the straight and narrow, particularly with the sides of the backpack segment. Also the nose/cockpit segment of the ver1 is poorly molded and doesn't play nice with brush panel lining. But the ver1's are a good place to start to get your feet wet. If you've got old/broken toys lying around, use those to test out your paints and washes. Not all paints and washes are created equal so best to test it on something you have no sentimental attachment to first. Again best to use waterbased solutions as these will be the gentlest on the plastic components of your VF1's. I've had the misfortune on the past of having Gundams literally crumble on me when I used industrial paint thinners... never gonna do that again.
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1:48 Hiki VF-1A panel lined To get this desired result, I used a charcoal black acrylic paint. Watered down the paint to a smooth flowing consistency. Took a fine tip brush and applied the paint to the recessed panel lines. Its alright to overlap and I didn't have to be 100% accurate with the application, as long as I was able to fill the recesses. Let paint dry for 2-3 hours, go play some video games or watch a movie. Once paint is dry enough, I get a pack of cotton cue-tips and a water based floor polish. Dipped qtip on floor polish and begin to rub said tip onto excess paint on VF-1. Excess paint will immediately rub off keeping recessed panel lines intact with desired line marks. Rubbing does not have to be done vigurously. Just a few soft gentle swipes and the paint will peel away nicely. Dry-off and enjoy your masterpiece. The great thing with acrylics is that their water based and tend to be gentle with plastics, in that way, if you screw-up and a panel gets wiped away or you don't like how it turned out, simply re-do the process until you get your desired effect. I have to tell you though, this being my first 1:48, I was bouncing off the wall for a week deliberating whether to panel line this baby or not. I eventually manned up and just went for it. Was happy with the result.
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1/48+fp's, 1/60, And 1/72 Picture Gallery Pt 4
Holocause replied to VF-18S Hornet's topic in Hall Of The Super Topics
Thanks. I really enjoyed doing it.