Jump to content

Angel's Fury

Members
  • Posts

    2026
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Angel's Fury

  1. Your ideas are pretty good.

    I'm most interested in good articulation... wheels on the feet of those destroids that have them (if any... the ones that come to mind are all Macross-II), good leg (ankle, knee, hip) and arm (wrist, elbow, shoulder) articulation in particular is more desirable to me than hip and waist.

    Removable pilots for all would be nice, as well as removable missiles for those destroids that have them. Good paint jobs would round it out.

    I'd rather these things be relatively inexpensive and/or sold in multi-packs ("army builders") than have gimmicks they don't need.

    Yes, I concure to that! :D

  2. The live-action Star Blazers project was written by the screenwriters of USA Godzilla and Independance Day. The story was derived from a two-page summary of Season 1 and used it as a starting point. The retelling was awful that it contradicts everything in what Star Blazers have and the hardcore fans (including myself) were pissed at the leaked script.

    Wow....I remember reading about a Starblazers movie back in the late Nineties, from what I remember of the early draft it wasn't even centered around the Yamato. Instead, the movie was going to center around the sunken U.S.S Arizona (WTF is THAT). I guess the producers didn't like the idea of a sunken Japanese battleship taking all the glory in an American movie.

    I'm glad the script didn't go any further......what a SLAP in the face of Space Cruiser Yamato (and Starblazers) fans. :angry:

    What's with that Starblazers Yamato stuff, are you a blazer fanboy?

  3. I would suggest:

    Ninja Scroll Special Edition and TV Series

    Neo Genesis Evangelion Perfect Edition DVD Box Set

    Ghost in the Shell: Stand Alone Complex

    Rahxephon

    You might want to try:

    Visions of a Distant Star

    Sorry it is Voices from a Distant Star.

    Thanks for the correction. :)

  4. After much thought, okay about 30 seconds worth, I voted Macross 7.

    I'd love to see super-detailed VF-17S/D with FPs, VF-19F/S with FPs and a VF-11C with FPs in 1/48 scale. Heck, I'd even buy the VF-19Kai, although I'd probably draw the line at Mylene's VF-11MAXL Custom.

    Of course, I love all Macross, so whatever Yamato decides to do next in 1/48 scale be it Zero, Plus, 7, D7, II or FB2012 I'd be as happy as a pig in crap :D

    I'm just imagining my display cabinet filled with 1/48 VFs from every series. Now that would be a dream come true.

    Graham

    Anything to keep us Macross fans happy. :D

  5. I believe the YF-19 was designed with the assistance of Studio Half Eye.

    When I first saw the prototype, I was very impressed with the sculpture.

    But when it finally came out, there was alot of problems with fitting certain parts.

    Glad they decided to redo everything :D

    Actually I hope they reduce the die-cast content abit and re-enforce the joint\moving areas with die-cast. The 1/48 had a nice balance for me :) My opinion there. :D

    Don't forget that they also hired Mr. Sakuragawa to do this. Once they have ironed out all the flaws for the

    prototype, then the final product, it will be a must-have.

  6. Hmmm, very interesting, if I don't have anything really important to do that day (class, work) and depending on how much it'll cost, I could possibly be down for this, though I don't know if I want to be in a theater full of LOTR fanboys  :lol:

    I would give it a try if I don't have school the next day.

  7. I think Haley Joe Smith would have a much better chance of getting the part of  Ikari Shinji than Daniel Radcliffe. If it's done right with the right cast, then people will watch it.

    Wizard recently did a special edition of "Catsing Call" for the N.G. EVA film for their sister publication (Anime Insider) and had him down on their wishlist for actor they would like to see play Shinji. Have you seen Haley Joel Osment lately? I wish I had a recent image of him. If they're still showing it, check out the rebroadcasts of the GLOW Awards on G4TV and watch the live via satellite snippet of him after Kingdom Hearts won the award for Best Screenplay. Puberty has not been kind to Little Lord Osment.

    As far as the filming locations for the film, it has already been stated that the film wil be partially shot in New Zealand, as that is where Weta is based. The cast will also be a melting pot of actors and extras from many ethnic backgrounds. Let's hope Chris Tucker doesn't catch wind of this, as the last thing we need is a NERV officer screaming "DAMN, SHINJI! I TOLD YOU NOT TO LET EVA UNIT 01 EAT THAT S^2 ENGINE! WHAT'S WRONG WITH YOU!"

    Seriously though, with the film's budget reportedly hitting on or near the $100 million mark, this live action retelling of the entire story had better not be disappointing. As far as length, four hours may seem like a long time for a movie, but the Director's Cuts of "The Fellowship of the Ring" and "The Two Towers" are 10-20 minutes shy of this mark each AND they will be shown back-to-back along with "The Return of the King" on its opening day in select cities. Twelve hours of Middle Earth. I don't know whether to laugh or cry.

    Thanks for getting the name right. :D

    So it's the same guys who made the Lord of the Rings Trilogy who is going to make this movie?

  8. I am not sure what the "Max" style is - maybe you could post a picture. I try to not go overboard, but because it is an anime subject - I find that you can get away with it sometimes.

    What I do is that I would use a shade darker of whatever the base colour is (ie: for a white valkyrie, I would use sky grey to post-shade). Basically I paint the model the way I want as though its brand spanking new, then I protect it in an different solvent clear-coat. For Example, I would paint the Valkyrie in Tamiya white (acrylic) and I would clear coat it in ModelMaster Acryl Semi-Gloss (laquer). This is why future would not work in this case - since both the Tamiya and Future can both be wipped off with alcohol or ammonia. This step is key, since it allows you to "erase" mistakes or re-do the post shading if you don't like it. Unlike what LTSO said about this method - I find that its very forgiving and allows a greater degree of control and redoing if you have done any mistakes. The theory is that the undercoat is sealed in by the clear coat, so any subsequent light spray of a darker shade to trace over the panel lines can be wiped off by a bit of windex on a q-tip without disturbing the paint under the clear-coat. The clear coat laquer doesn't react to the ammonia in the regular blue windex - which is a weaker solvent for Tamiya paints than alcohol - which their thinner is based on. So I usually thin down the mixture (ie: sky grey) so its more viscous 2:1 paint:thinner and try to set the airbrush to as thin of a line as possible. I then trace over all the panel lines, contours and crevices of the model - occasionally I would follow the air-flow direction over the aircraft as though it was flying as well. Where the post shading goes I find is more of a taste question - or artistic decision. Aside from picking out the panel seams, I tend to do it more heavily around the exhaust tail cones, and moveable surfaces. Sometimes I might mask a panel line with masking tape and just spray one side of it - it gives the impression that the masked side is newer and have just been recently replaced. Lastly, I treat the whole process kind of like a drawing, its like shading in a 3-D sculpture. BUT I NEED TO EMPHASIZE SUBTLETY HERE. I find it always more effective to under do it than over do it - I find that its too cartoony or "Gundamy" if there is too much shading. Plus you can always add more - but its a bit more difficult to take it away. Lastly, when you are happy with the post shading, I would again clear-coat protect this layer. Since its a very fine layer of paint you just traced on - it is very delicate and can scratch very easily. As soon as you can - you need to sandwich it in another layer of clear-coat laquer. I would even do a light dustng of the "weathering" effect on after the decals as well. Just keep in mind to always clear-coat laquer between stages that you might want to protect or "undo" to. :D

    Can you email all of your tips you've posted @ this forum? It's for my future reference when I start that business, after I get my degree in civil eng.

    Thanks. :D

    Stephen

  9. Hmm, I wouldn't count buying something at the MSRP (like the Bandai reissues) as overpaying. If that's the case, then we all have overpaid on our cars. The most I've overpaid on something was the 1/100 YF-19 Battroid recast I bought for $50. I got it back in the day when any model of the YF-19 was scarce, so price wasn't really an issue. I ended up selling it on MW last year for $15. Better to get some of that money back rather than let it take up space on my shelf.

    Selling anything else? :huh: ( Just in case I might want to buy.)

×
×
  • Create New...