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redfinger61

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Posts posted by redfinger61

  1. I still have this project in the planning stages, right now I am thinking of a reagular Valk as opposed to one w/ fast packs. I am thinking the tail could be a good area for some "pin-up" art.

    I am really having a hard time finding some anime influenced "pin-up" work. I want to he art to have that feel, but not totally have that look.

    So if anyone has any anime pin-up art let me know!!

    Ashton

  2. Looking good, I am currnetly working on a VF-1S, I am putting on the decals on doing the panel wash now. I agree as well about the Alclad, the stuff is great!

    I dont know what method you will be using for the panel lines but I am very pleased w/ the oil/oderless mineral spirits combo that I am using.

    I have read that most people let the oil sit in the panel lines for a hour or so, I tried somehting different and let it sit for a bout 10min, and the effect was great!, I used straight black though as opposed to a dark greay. Letting the oil not sit as long left aome really cool faint streaks all along the model, instant weathering!!

    Ashton

  3. You can use a Q-Tip and some alcohol for easier clean ups on the future wash. Just becareful of using the alcohol near any existing paint.

    Even better then alcohol is windex, it shouldnt* harm the paint and will dissolve the future very quickly...

  4. I lOVE future, i was in to table top gaming for a loooong time and use it on all the stuff I painted, I have found for washes that a 50/50 mix of Future and distilled watercombined w/ future does really well. I pre-mix my future water in a little drop bottle then do a 50/50 mix of ink(the GW stuff) to my future water mix.

    After you trace all the lins let it sit for about 5-10 min or so then wip it off, it should work well..

    Also, I ahve been getting into oil washes alot lately too. Coat your model in Future, then mix up some nice quality oil paint w/ some Oderless Mineral Spirits, untill it is about as thin as milk, and do the same thing I described above.

    You may not have to coat the toy w/ future first. but it couldnt hurt.

    I just picked up the "Unleashed" version of Bumble Bee from the Transformer movie, I am planning on doing the same thing to this toy as well...

    Ashton

  5. I just recently aquired this model, it is unassembled and an original cast. However all the instructions are in Japanese, so I cant read them. I have looked through most of the parts and they all seem to be there, except for the small antenna "fins" that are located near the front of the nose, they dont seem to be anywhere in the box, but on the instructions they are shown in the final instruction assembly, w/ some Japanese writing next to them, I just dont know what that writing says....

    So anyone who built this, am I missing a part that the seller didnt give me, or am I too scratch build these fins?

    Ashton

  6. Bare w/ me guys....

    I grew up watching the Robotech series here in the states, recently on the recommendation of a friend I watched DYRL, and the Macruss Plus DVD's, very cool....

    Anyway I have heard there is a "Japenese" version of the robotech series, a little more violent, some added scenes that werent in the american compilation, ect...

    What, if it even exsits, is the name of this alternate series?

    I have been searching e-bay finding copies of the Macross movies for my personal collection, bu t I would like to have the series as well, 36 episodes I beleive..

    Any help?

    Thanks guys,

    Ashton

  7. So I found on the main page the link to the model section of this site....I also found that many of the decal sheets for the Hasegawa models are avilable. I was thinking of copying them and making some decals of my own.

    One problem is that the back ground of all the decal sheets are blue, so if I was to merly take the copy of the decals sheet scan, then print it out on my own sheet of decal paper, they would all have a blue tint, you guys see what I mean??

    So my question is how can a use that decal scans, and still have a transparent decal film where I need it to be?

    Thanks

    Ashton

  8. Is this the Blackaces one?

    Yes it is, infact I just bought it from Valkeryie(sp) The thign is really cool! I have spent about the last 2 hours or so just looking at all the pieces!! The detail is awsome!! And it is a lot bigger than I thought as well.

    I asked about the re-cast, because at a certain other website, one that is very cool and informative, my post about this 1/48 recast was locked, saying "this website doest not support recasting, weather or not the model is in production or not..." So I just didn't want to get burned twice.

    Ashton

  9. I really dont want to spark an argument about recasting and such, but I have to say, even though it is a recast, this kit is awsome!!! I am soo looking forward to building this. I feel it is goig to take alot of time and patience.

    Anyone else had a chance to build this kit? I would love to here any feedback on it.

    Ashton

  10. Yeah it's a pain but for what i charge I don't worry about it but for my own collection I go though the motions and polish it off. I wish hasegawa would go back to the old way they did canopies with out the line, would make my life easy. Oh I charge $170.00 AUD build painted and posted. I am getting this kit down to about 21/2 days work to complete.

    Actually Has intends for that seam to be there, it is the same w/ the F-16 model they make as well....the problem is the shape of the canopy, you see it has a very bolbous(sp) shape, so it cant be cast in a single mold, or they wouldnt be able to get it out, so they have to cast the canopy in a mold that splits....Given the fact that is what they have to do, I think the seam line being as small as it is is great!

    Model looks good btw.

    Ashton

  11. Well, ever since Hasegawa model kits came out on the market, any stuff previously made with resin has drop in price considerbly.

    The 1/72 Club-M VF-1 Strike fighter kit goes for roughly $50 - $80 on Yahoo Japan, the last I saw. This depends whether you have the first release, red box or the later release, blue box. The blue box is actually the VF-1 Fast Pack version but later issues used the same box just the wording change by replacing it with a sticker.

    Well w/ shipping the price comes to about 70$ so I guess I am right at the average.....I am actually looking orward to this kit, although I do have the Has strike, I think this will be fun to build, I may end up doing my custom WWII paint job on the Has, and the Skull one on the Club-M one....or vise versa, we will see what happens..

    AShton

  12. Man those look great!!! But I gotta tell ya, I was thining of doing the same thing and thought I had a real original idea....guess I didnt....o well looks good

    One variation you could do...I remember seeing once that the head rotated forward and that the pilot seat could move up and out through the head....that would be a cool variation

    Ashton

  13. Hi all!!

    pretty new to the boards and I must say I am a huge Macross fan, and have really gotten into building the Hasegawa kits...I am thinking of an cool idea for a paint scheme for a Valk w/ or w/out fastpacks, I havent decided yet, any way here is a link to a render I did w/ fastpacks

    http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e277/red...nt=DarkLady.jpg

    I have always loved the P-51 mustang and was trying to get that feel..

    Well, I still need to finsih some of what I am working on now before I get this project going but I will keep you all posted!! I look forward to chatting w/ you all later!

    Red

  14. Hello all,

    I am glad to be able to finally post something on this site!! I have been trying to join MW for over a month, then when I saw that MW changed servers and that I sitll hadnt received a confirmation e-mail I tried registering again.

    I tried contacting the mode team several times, but never got any e-mails back?!?!

    So, they way I finally got on the boards now is by creating a yahoo mail account, for somre reason MW wouldnt recognize my comcast account, I did have all my spam filters turned off and security settings off as well...

    Anyway, I am trying to change my e-mail to my origonal one, but it wont let me, MW says the e-mail already exsists....

    My origonal username was redfinger and my origonal e-mail was ashton.holbrook@comcast.net

    Can someone help me figure out what is going on?

    Red

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