Galaxy_Stranger
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Posts posted by Galaxy_Stranger
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Awesome - did you get Orthographics for that?
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HAH - found this screwing around on Youtube:
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If you moved to PC, you can just edit everything directly.
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NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!
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Or MINE
huehuehueh
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It's too bad you can't jump out of the cockpit and walk around.
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I cannot achieve completion without SOUND!!!!!!
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That's Hot
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I got mine new.
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I dipped it and then dabbed it on a paper towel to calm it down and then started in on the toy. I began on the bottom because I just KNEW it was gonna be too much!
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No, it's normally in between $200 and $300 from many online retailers. It's to compete with the Iwata Micron, which easily sells for $300 and well over $400.
So, $90 for a $200 pos Badger is a rip off.
Liquidation, also not worth the money: $50 - http://www.upcycledsavings.com/index.php/UpcycledSavings/pd1581938/Badger_Air-Brush_Co_Sotar_2020-2F_Large_Gravit_by_Badger_Air-Brush_Co.
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FYI: $400 airbrush for $90 - Legit, I bought one, NEW : http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1444409150&sr=8-3&keywords=badger+airbrush
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I got anxious and used some Graphite on this:
I started on the bottom and got WAY too much on. Looks like someone went over it with a soft pencil. Then I did the top very lightly, building up like you normally would while dry brushing. So the top turned out a lot better.
I'm going to strip it and paint it from scratch. What I noticed was that the graphite doesn't fill in any of the crevices. What it really does is give you darkened highlights - which is what I suppose is what you'd want for an essentially white object. It also didn't adhere very well to the smooth surface of the toy. So, I'm going to strip it, prime it and give it an off-white color and build off of that.
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Man, this crap just gets EVERYWHERE
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It never occurred to me to use Graphite and Charcoal for weathering. Today I saw a video someone did of a Tie Fighter and I came. He mentioned he used Graphite and it dawned on me I had never tried it.
I've got an idea to combine it with the Salt technique that I think will look great.
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How many of you have used Graphite and Charcoal for weathering your Macross/Anime models?
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Gotta be careful with preshading, though. I've seen some guys on youtube really glom it on. Yeah, it looks neat, but sometimes they make it so that it only fits in if it's supposed to be a weT planE on an aircraft carrier or something.
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*SCHWING*
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I use a dental vacuum forming machines that I picked up on ebay for around $80.00. It works extremely well for the little stuff, i.e. parts under 3 inches.
Leik dis one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLReisIoXKg
This might solve my molding problems. I could use this basic idea with my heat gun and maybe make some neat solid molds.
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Can you get much detail out of vacuforming?
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Well, more for me to huff, I guess!
I haven't started using these yet. I've got a bottle of Micro Weld coming next week. I want to use them all on a cheap model I've got here and see how they're different. It's a snap-tite I'm gonna sand the nubs off of. Can't decide whether or not to scribe the panel lines or not as they're raised...
But the viscosity of each as well as the application has to be different among them. Some directions say to squeeze the parts together until the plastic fills the gap. Others leave it up to you to fill later, which I plan to do with some new-to-me filler Mr. Surfacer.
Interesting about the Legos. I used Testor's glue on my Legos as well, but it wouldn't adhere to anything. It would kind of fill in the gaps but wouldn't hold anything in place, so when it broke apart, the legos weren't ruined.
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Interesting...water soluble...
Yeah, I can only get this stuff pretty much on Amazon and it always turns out to be a Japanese or Hong Kong retailer.
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What scale is the tub?
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South Ataria in FSX
in Fan Works
Posted
It looks like that's exactly where he got his reference from.
Man, this makes me want to play around freestyle and come up with different designs.