ChristopherB

Hello Kurt,

Great job on Gouf and Dom!

If you think 1/60 scale is big, wait until you see my finished 1/48 GP04G Gerbera resin kit built. A company named G-System has even released a couple of 1/35 scale kits, which are really expensive.

I am big Gundam fan, and I hope that one day someone will release a Perfect Grade Macross VF-1S, so I can build my own fully detailed valkyrie. That will be a dream come true!

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello,

Definitely a great job on the 1/72 Strike.

Reminds me a lot of the Club M kit. The builder was definitely inspired by it.

Quite a few similarities, but also some differences. Mainly, the manner in which the missile pod opens.

Of course the 1/48 Club M is made to be ultra-detailed, but to modify a 1/72 Hasegawa to the same level took a lot of work.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello,

I still like the 1/60 line, because they take up less space, so I would be interested if Yamato did indeed release the upgrade set.

I checked out HLJ and notice something interesting, but then it could just be a mistake. To be honest though, I don't recall them making this type of mistake before, and if they have, it is rare. Here it goes:

Assembly Guide: Skill Level 2, Cement, Paint Required

Product Overview: This item is a set of optional parts for modifying or detailing robot and other science-fiction kits. It requires both cement and painting to complete or use.

Anyway, presuming it is correct, I can imagine that we would need to paint the GBP1 armor, but if they release a generic upgrade kit that is non-specific, well that could require some assembly. Who knows, but I thought it worth mentioning, and it's always good to add a little fuel to fire of speculation.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello,

Looks great!

I've been wanting to see how good one of these kits looks after it has been built, for a while now.

The leg armor could use some decals, especially since the boosters have the Macross emblem.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello,

Thanks for the information.

Personally, I've never tried "break" fluid, but I found that "brake" fluid will indeed damage plastic parts by making them brittle.

I find it interesting that "Easy Off" will damage metal, but not plastic. You would think the opposite would be true.

I'm interested in the potential long term effects, if any, that may not show up immediately, but months/years later might occur. Plastic is of course porous and I doubt that the cleaner just stays on the surface.

Ovens of course do not have plastic inside of them, because of heating issues, so I wonder if "Easy Off" was ever intended for use on plastic items.

Just curious, not trying to be the "fly in the ointment."

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello Devin,

Thank you very much for making these decals! As usual, you did an amazing job, and raised the bar another notch.

My love of customs will be the death of me, but I don't plan to ever go on the wagon.

By the way, I mailed you the "other" Enigma booster emblem, so you can add it to the decal sheet. You should get it any day. Just to clarify for those reading, I obtained the Hasegawa style Enigma Booster album from the limited release option decal set. It will be cool to be able to pick which emblem you prefer to use, or just make (2) different Engima customs, one with each emblem.

I'll reply to your PM's soon.

Sincerely,

Christopher

capital_jay & Grayson72,

Thank you both for posting a reply. The information is greatly appreciated.

I was pretty sure that the numbers referred to a specific manufacturer, but I was not sure who. I remember reading that you could get pre-matched Gunze paints to go with certain Gundam kits at HLJ.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello,

I did a search prior to posting this thread, and did not find a match. Perhaps my search criteria was off, and if a pertinent thread exists, please post the link.

My question specifically refers to the Hasegawa Macross VF-1S Strike Battroid "Minmay Guard" Limited Edition kit. I have built a lot of models during the past (20) years, and normally I just paint them whatever color I like, or bring a color reference with me to the hobby store and go with the best match.

This time, I want to do it right, and by the book, all though I'm sure some will say it is not necessary. I've done it every other way, so please post if you can answer my specific question.

Does the Hasegawa color guide provided in each model kit reference a specific brand of paint? If so, who, and where is the best place to obtain it? I'm familiar with the differences between acrylic paint and enamel, so that is not an issue. As we know different paint manufactures are prevalent in other geographical locations.

Obviously, the majority of the colors referenced are fairly generic. I mean, white is usually white, and silver is silver, but other colors can be intrinsic to the model kit. I have never heard of a color called "Radome," so perhaps it is a combination. I know what an actual "Radome" is, since I served in the military, but a V-1S does not have one.

The color guide provides reference numbers to correlate part with paint color, and then some Japanese text, and then what is most likely the English equivalent of the paint color.

I presume the "H" next to the number, just refers to "Hasegawa" since I know of no paint manufactures name that begins with an "H."

Thank you in advance.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Mike,

Great job on the custom! Very nice work, and it is nice to see the custom landing gear and gunpod. Sadly, the 1/55 has always lacked the ability to be able to have the gunpod mounted in fighter mode, but you have fixed that.

I'm looking forward to seeing your next custom with the 1/55 Takatoys nosecone.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello CID,

Very nice collection and website!

Welcome to MW.

When time and increased knowledge of web design permits, please include the ability to "click" on different shelves to increase the detail.

By the way, I'm a big Gundam fan too, and I look forward to seeing that portion of your collection.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Solscud007,

How are you doing? Long time since we've talked.

Like you, I'm a big Joke Machine fan. I would love to have your custom DYRL set. A thousand times better than the originals.

Is "Rhoby" still making his custom Joke Machines? I've been so busy with my cross country move, and new job that I have lost touch with the important things in life, such as Macross.

He came over to my house a couple of times when we were working on the 1/100 VF-1AG project, but that was a while back.

Take it easy!

Sincerely,

Christopher

Hello Fulcy,

I'm sorry for not replying to the thread yet, but my cross country move has taken a lot out of me. It's been hard readjusting back to having to actually "work" to earn my paycheck, as opposed to getting paid to slack.

Everything you have done looks great, and I am looking forward to seeing the final project. Hopefully other people will want to own their very own 1/48 VF-1AG Armored Gerwalk.

Kaolian,

You have been a really big help, and I appreciate you taking the time to modify your original drawings even though you are not technically obligated to.

I'm sure your drawings have been a big help to the project.

Sincerely,

Christopher

Abombz!!,

No problem, it's cool, I'm just trying to help, because I also want to be able to play this game.

I just hope that it plays as wells as it looks.

As of right now, it looks like the "Slide Card" method is the easiest and least expensive, plus you can return your PS2 to stock condition whenever you want.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello,

Information regarding a slide card would be great.

I've already posted information concerning both a "Boot/Swap Disc" and a "Mod Chip" so those topics have been covered, but I'm sure most people want to chose the easiest method.

Apparently there is a no-solder mod chip available, but I'm not sure who makes it.

Perhaps a "Slide Card" is a good alternative to a "Mod Chip."

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

"The swap magic requires a mod chip. Someone posted a thread about it (I think it was bob joe mac) and turns out a mod chips is essential for the swap magic disc."

Hello,

That is exactly what my two long detailed posts have been about.

Trying to explain that you need both.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Abombz!! & Others,

I don't claim to be an expert on this matter, but you can see from my post above I never talked about a "Slide Card." I only talked about "Boot Discs and Mod Chips," so I am not sure yet how my specific explanation was wrong. There is obviously some confusion regarding this matter, and I'm just trying to help people know what there options are. There seem to be a few with different plus and minuses, and each product has different options.

Unless the words "Slide Card" and "Boot Disc" are interchangeable and refer to the same thing, my explanation still stands correct, and my information comes direct from the manufacturer.

Here "Abombz!!" uses the word "Slide Card," which I never personally discussed. To be honest, it would appear that a slide card is a different option that I did not even cover:

"From what I gather.... the slide card works with backup PS2 games *only* "

If the two are indeed different options, you might want to edit your post so people are not further confused. Correct terminology helps prevent perpetuated misinformation, which I am trying to rectify just because I want to help. I plan to buy the import and modify my PS2.

Like "Chowser" verified, the "Boot Disc" sold at the "Easy Buy" website requires a "Mod Chip" to play import games.

"Yep, those are the swap disks I have, you still need to buy the no solder thing [Mod Chip] with it. They sell the swap disks seperately for people that destroyed their originals."

Does anyone know who sells the no solder mod chips?

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

This is what I posted in another thread for reference:

"This might have already been covered, and I missed it, but from what I read, it is mentioned that if you want to purchase the import version of the game and be able to use it on your US version PS2, all you have to do is buy a "Boot Disc." A website is provided, which is:

PS2 Upgrades

I read on pages 1, 2 and 3 that someone says you can buy the: "Swap Magic PS2 Boot Disc"

Here is a quote from Druna Skrass:

"Well if anyone wants to get it, but not have to mod their PS2 you could get this...The Swap Magic PS2 boot disk."

What he said is then repeated, and referenced later in this thread.

I just want to clarify, and if I myself am wrong, please feel free to post the correct information. Here it goes:

If you want to modify your US version PS2 to be able to play both imported, and standard US games, you do not need a "Swap Magic PS2 Boot Disc," because if you take the time to read the product description, it says that it's entire purpose by itself is to allow people to play PS2 games that they have copied, and not import games.

Obviously, if you burn a copy of this Macross PS2 game, as opposed to buying your own, you will need the "Boot Disc."

If like most poeple, you just want to be able to play this import Macross game rather than wait and hope for an American release, all you need to buy is the "Magic Version 5/6/7," which will require that you have some soldering skills. Full instructions are included, and Radio Shack sells soldering guns for very little money. The Mod Chip costs, $39.00. The chip once installed never has to be removed, and you can read for yourself about the benefits of this specific mod chip as opposed to the other versions that are available.

I just want to clariy the difference between a "Boot Disc" and a "Mod Chip" so people know what they need. A mod chip is of course a lot cheaper than buying a brand new Japanese version PS2.

In addition, apparently a mod chip is available that does not require any soldering to be done. If someone has information about this type of mod chip, please post it. Obviously, Sony does not want it to be easy to for us to play import games.

Here is the quote:

"Requires a no solder modchip to modify your console"

I hope this helps, and if it is redundant information then so be it."

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello,

This might have already been covered, and I missed it, but from what I read, it is mentioned that if you want to purchase the import version of the game and be able to use it on your US version PS2, all you have to do is buy a "Boot Disc." A website is provided, which is:

PS2 Upgrades

I read on pages 1, 2 and 3 that someone says you can buy the: "Swap Magic PS2 Boot Disc"

Here is a quote from Druna Skrass:

"Well if anyone wants to get it, but not have to mod their PS2 you could get this...The Swap Magic PS2 boot disk."

What he said is then repeated, and referenced later in this thread.

I just want to clarify, and if I myself am wrong, please feel free to post the correct information. Here it goes:

If you want to modify your US version PS2 to be able to play both imported, and standard US games, you do not need a "Swap Magic PS2 Boot Disc," because if you take the time to read the product description, it says that it's entire purpose by itself is to allow people to play PS2 games that they have copied, and not import games.

Obviously, if you burn a copy of this Macross PS2 game, as opposed to buying your own, you will need the "Boot Disc."

If like most poeple, you just want to be able to play this import Macross game rather than wait and hope for an American release, all you need to buy is the "Magic Version 5/6/7," which will require that you have some soldering skills. Full instructions are included, and Radio Shack sells soldering guns for very little money. The Mod Chip costs, $39.00. The chip once installed never has to be removed, and you can read for yourself about the benefits of this specific mod chip as opposed to the other versions that are available.

I just want to clariy the difference between a "Boot Disc" and a "Mod Chip" so people know what they need. A mod chip is of course a lot cheaper than buying a brand new Japanese version PS2.

In addition, apparently a mod chip is available that does not require any soldering to be done. If someone has information about this type of mod chip, please post it. Obviously, Sony does not want it to be easy to for us to play import games.

Here is the quote:

"Requires a no solder modchip to modify your console"

I hope this helps, and if it is redundant information then so be it.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello,

It would be a dream come true if Yamato releases a Max VF-1S.

Sure, I could easily paint the yellow parts on a Roy VF-1S blue, but an actual VF-1S Max would mean that he is finally getting the respect he deserves.

A VE-1 and VT-1 in 1/48 scale would also be sweet.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello,

Cool thread!

Some more, if they were covered already, ignore, I'll think of more and post when I get a chance.

1.) The leg intakes are always in the closed position on a 1/55. Lupricas made the stock covers removable, placed turbine blade detail inside with scratch built "open" grills in the up position. (Lupricas)

2.) Modified resin 1/48 to 1/55 Strike Cannon from Club M Ultimate Strike Valkyrie. A million times better looking than the stock 1/55, and they are actually look like they belong. (Jung and Mslz22)

3.) Missile pod modification so it attaches to booster via magnet. Same with Strike Cannon. In addition, a magnet hidden in the booster keeps the Strike Cannon firmly against booster while cannon is flush against it. Allows wicked barrell rolls. (ChristopherB)

4.) Using magnets for leg armor attachment. Thought of before MPC was released. All magnets hidden. (ChristopherB)

5.) Cut out fake missile covers on 1/55 missile pod, and scratch build small missiles inside for accuracy. Used on 1/55 Hikaru Strike, similar to Club M 1/48. (ChristopherB)

6.) Alternative attachment for boosters so that non-realistic 1/55 backpack clip does not have to be used. (ChristopherB)

7.) Just to clarify, I believe Rosario love made the first custom nosecone. At first he develop a resin piece that could fit over the end of the stubby Jetfire version, but later created a complete nosecone and the first framed canopy. I currently own the original and only one made. (Rosario)

8.) Hinged tailfins that realistically fold in the middle allowing backpack assembly to lay flat instead of hitting against top of valkyrie. (Lupricas)

9.) Hinged front landing gear cover. (Lupricas)

10.) Booster thruster nozzles mounted on ball joint allowing them to swivel. Similar to Yamato, but used prior. (ChristopherB)

11.) Underside backplate detail as opposed to just seeing the manufactures name. (Rick the Hunter)

12.) Poseable hands for battroid mode. (Either Jung or Rick the Hunter)

13.) Lighted wing tips, wing root lights and canopy cockpit display lights. (ChristopherB implemented by Mslz22)

14.) Hinged cockpit canopy. (Rosario)

15.) Hinged chestplate airbrake. (Rosario)

16.) Open chestplate intakes. (Rosario)

17.) E-seeker Radar dome that actually rotates via balljoint. I know that Kidkorrupt implemented this on the arm radar of his E-seeker, but I am not sure about the main radome. (ChristopherB and/or Kidkorrupt.)

I've got more, but I'm tired, and the self-proclaimed "Custom King" will sleep on it and hopefull add some additional modifications. I too want to try out all of these ideas I have swimming around in my head, and the ideas of others, but time is of the essence. My next MW Convention entry will be built by me as opposed to me paying someone to turn my ideas into reality.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Edited to Update List:

18.) Selectable missile armament that attaches to underside of wings via very small magnets. (Rick the Hunter and Mslz22)

19.) Moveable/hinged wing flaps. (Rick the Hunter and Mslz22)

Hello,

It would be totally sweet if that ends up being a Yamato.

It makes sense, because I would not think that Yamato would allow a either a custom valkyrie or another companies kit to be placed on their display and next to their products.

If it is true, then perhaps the 1/48 will follow suit.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello,

I have to admit, it really is not that big of a deal, just as long as the custom member title is not based on post count or something like that. It seems such a trivial thing and hardly worth the (5) pages and thousands of words spent on the topic. Either way is fine with me, not that the decision is mine to either make or influence. Someone with the power will just step in here and say. "Yes" or "No" and that will be the end of it.

I agree with "JsArclight" in that a sense of community is important, and I do believe that assigned military ranks often make some people feel superior. However, I do not believe that personally selected titles in and of themselves will cause a problem, but as he mentioned you already have your signature to write your custom title in.

Mine used to be, "Valkyrie Operations Specialist," because that is what I did in the military, at least the Ops. Spec. part. To be honest those (3) words do not inherently add any so called "uniqueness" to who I am. Take away my avatar, post count, and signature, and I will still find a way to distinquish myself merely by my actions.

I do believe it is a bit melodramatic to say that if someone feels that having custom member titles is not warranted, then we should just go ahead and get rid of everything that identifies us. Who said that we can't have one without the other, and the all or nothing approach is untenable. Sounds like the old, "cut off your nose to spite your face" approach.

Just put your custom title at the very top of your signature in the largest possible font and in red, and that should satisfy your desire to be unique and stand out from the crowd. Lord knows my missing (3) word title makes me feel woefully inadequate and just like every other fish in the sea with a "uniqueness" quotient of zero.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

PS: >EXO<,

Great sense of humor my friend, and thanks to your recent post, the moderators will now promote you to "Private 1st Class," congratulations. But wait, a thorough review of all of your posts shows that some are actually one-liners, so I regret to inform you that you have just been demoted to "Private 3rd Class Latrine Cleaner."

Hello,

I scanned through all of the posts, and I am pretty sure that no one else mentioned this yet. I fail as usual to "Jump Someone Elses Train."

First of all, as someone said, reward members who have large post counts while not giving them credit for so called "spam," or as I like to say, "one liner" posts with no real value, or merely just posting a "smiley" face, or some combination thereof. Consider how that would be accomplished.

Personally, I think it is stupid to reward people for posting. Short of the moderators personally taking a look at each and every member and making an objective evaluation as to whether they have a large post count because they post intelligent, well-thought-out comments that pertain to the issue being discussed, or they actually go back and add information to something they already posted in the same thread, rather than posting again just to add something trivial, there is no way to decide who warrants what rating.

To indiscrimately award some "title" to a person that posts needlessley, and/or posts wisely sometimes makes no sense, and inspires others to intentionally increase their post count in some weird competitive manner that benefits MW as a whole in no appreciable way.

I mean damn, no offense intended, but if the shoe fits, wear it as they say. Any idiot can post stuff like "Right on dude", "Yeah, , <_< , !"

Personally, I feel that the mark of a true MW member is someone who sticks around through thick and thin, does not cause problems, and posts intelligently, and usually more than one line. We all know what we are talking about. No one can control when you located MW and joined, but older members who warrant it should be respected, not high post counts in and off itself.

The moderators have neither the time nor the energy, nor the desire to evaluate each member using guidelines that have not even be devised, and who will sit down and decide the fair manner to do so? Shawn perhaps, Graham, I think not, they are swamped as it is. I have seen many people come here, post a lot and then disappear, why reward them?

So based upon this thread these are the options:

Number #1: Indiscrimately award everyone with a large post count, via yet to be devised titles and post levels, some "title" that neither conotates we should either respect the person or denotes their inherent value to our community.

Number #2: Devise some method for someone to review each and every member using subjective standards, because we all know no computer program written can handle the task, so it falls to a human.

Number #3: Forget the titles, earn peoples respect by posting intelligent comments when beneficial to MW, stick around no matter how things go, and remember that your post count will grow even when you ignore it.

Just my long winded feelings. If you actually took the time to read what I posted, "Thank You," and if you do not agree, that is your God given right to write what you feel, but I have said my piece, so peace.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello,

I'm sorry, but I could not resist the temptation to post a picture of the most beautiful 1/48 Club M Ultimate Detail Strike Valkyrie. Not only is it a one of a kind Blue Roses (the first in 1/48 scale perhaps), but dozens of parts can be removed and/or replaced with other parts to create a dynamic scene.

The Yamato looks like a very nice plastic toy that thousands of people own and are identical to one another, but the 1/48 Club M is a non-transformable museum quality work of valkyrie art, with unsurpassed detail. Very few people actually own a built Club M, or have one proudly displayed in their collection.

Here is a sample picture, with a 1/72 Hasegawa Strike Battroid in the background:

Sincerely,

Christopher B)

Hello Shawn,

I hope you are doing well!

I've sent you an e-mail and PM, please reply when you get a chance.

Take it easy, and try not to work too hard.

Sincerely,

Christopher B)