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UN_MARINE

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Everything posted by UN_MARINE

  1. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! That's great! never too early (or late) to get into the hobby. Yeah, they should've held off until a proper 2.0. Thanks! They're based on the Hummingbird boosters, which they also used on the Signature Ka. Robot Damashii Ex-S - I figure this will be as close to a Ver. Ka. I can get, until they actually make one. The face is still stock, didn't feel like it needed further improvement.
  2. UN_MARINE
    Got a hold of the new MG Ex-S. Pretty significant improvement over the old one, but didn't feel "modern" enough, so I did some modifications. The smartgun barrel is 3D printed, with a CA bath & a bit of sanding.
  3. UN_MARINE
    Digital distribution seems like the easiest way to go, but I'm willing to print & ship to anybody who wants one*. *Colors may vary (based on how much of the specific color filament required is still available).
  4. UN_MARINE
    Version 1.5 is standing! (Red canopy) Needs a couple of minor adjustments, then it should be good to go!
  5. UN_MARINE
    Here's what 134(+1) parts looks like. The +1 part is a a red canopy, for the classic Takatoku look.
  6. UN_MARINE
    Just finished printing v1.5!
  7. UN_MARINE
    Indeed it its! I was half expecting the printer to ignore the model.
  8. UN_MARINE
    I adjusted the canopy part so it installs better - the canopy will slide right in, after the control tower halves are secured together, no more need to trap it inside before painting. Looks like it'll go together with minimal effort, except for the "snap-of-doom" in the hip segment. We'll know for sure as soon as the new test prints are done.
  9. UN_MARINE
    This is probably the smallest model I've printed. Quick & dirty Gundam marker paint job.
  10. UN_MARINE
    The model took a week to finish, about 4-6 hours a day. Possibly 35-40 hours total. Plus 31 hours of printing. Thanks!
  11. UN_MARINE
    That's pretty cool. I don't believe that level of security is necessary for this little project, though. Got some minor adjustments to the model. The center antenna mast now has holes, so it doesn't look like a sail, and added some detail on the thighs. Also added/enlarged some tabs for more positive locking for transformation. I'll run a test print to see if everything works, then I can work on uploading the files.
  12. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! I guess that's one way to impose DRM haha. "Printing complete. This 3D file will self-destruct in 5 seconds..."
  13. UN_MARINE
    I figure once the files are out there, it's pretty much the wild west/high seas. So uh... just remember to point to where it came from, I guess (A feature or interview on a blog/site will do nicely).
  14. UN_MARINE
    That's what I was worried about. All that extra work to add sprues to lower the price by a fraction isn't really winning me over. Option 3 looks feasible through Pinshape. I've uploaded a design for free distribution there before, I just need to check the payment option. I'll probably upload the files arranged per group, color, and optimal layer thickness, like the raw print pics. I don't think the site will let me upload 80 individual model files.
  15. UN_MARINE
    It's about $150 to print on this type of printer, + $65-$110 shipping estimate, from this side of the world (yikes!). And it'll need a bit of extra work to make it look smooth & pretty. I'm still in the middle of improving the model for weight/material reduction, I'll get back to you guys when I get everything "packaged" for Shapeways.
  16. UN_MARINE
    Wow... I forgot I posted in this thread. Nice prints! It shows the difference between a competent slicer/g-code and a not-so-smart one. I never printed any kind of calibration blocks or benchmark models, I just tend to adjust after the fact. After a couple of mishaps, we pretty much adjusted for any quirks the printer had. I'm still using an Up! Plus 2.
  17. UN_MARINE
    I'm looking into possible options: I figure a fully built kit will be very expensive, on top of the shipping - this may as well come from Mars. The second option is Shapeways, which will probably be ridiculous expensive. Third option is a distribute-able file set, for a reasonable cost. Considering the time & effort required to build & make it pretty - I figure # 3 could be our best case scenario. Thanks!
  18. UN_MARINE
    Messing around with a composite of the transformation sequence.
  19. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! It's in Epic scale (I think). The STL's are free if anybody's interested in it, although I wasn't able to layout the parts for proper print orientation (I figured different orientations work for different printers). Micro Land Raider .stl files I pretty much go for a "close enough" model for printing, it gets sanded down & improved anyway, so any fine details the printer missed is "recovered" later.
  20. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! I found the Valk at a local swap meet/convention, the box was messed up, but everything inside was complete, including the sticker sheet.
  21. UN_MARINE
    After a bit of sanding, the parts fit a whole lot better. I can probably run a v1.5 print with improvements next week. Tiny Destroid Monster! Also got rid of the chest/cannon drooping in Storm Attacker mode.
  22. UN_MARINE
    I managed to print something smaller, and with slightly less horrifying results. The trick I use is to keep dimensions above 0.3mm in the model - the printer recognizes the detail as "large enough" so it doesn't ignore them in the g-code. But sometimes, there are way too many details to keep track of, so they don't negate each other. Oh, and... surprise WH40K model!
  23. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! I figured it would be the easiest way to split up parts for color separation & printing in batches. The head proportion's pretty much a side-effect of not wanting a parts-former. Thanks! I've never tried acetone, sand paper's always been the preferred method. The printer and I have a mutual understanding, where it doesn't embarrass me too often. That is truly impressive work!
  24. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! Thanks! It's relatively clean, although there was a mishap with the raft lifting on one of the initial part sets. I just count the bottom of the prints as total losses - if I need all sides clean, I just split the model & orient the important sides facing up. A bit of extra work, but it plays to the printer's strengths.
  25. UN_MARINE
    Thanks! EDIT: New feature!
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