Chindenathus

The only bitch I got with the Toynami design is the shoulder sensor unit's mount and hinge. Damn that's fugly!

If I get this product I will sure as hell rebuild those parts like that afternoon. I dig the subtle hinge in the vertical stabs, and the fact that hey incorporated most of the sweet features in the IMAI 1/48 kit in a figure that's considerably smaller. But I have to say that price tag is tad insulting.

I agree this should be in the "Other Anime'" area.

Fokker kidnaps millia and is wondering what to do with her.....

Rush her to the nearest plastic surgeon for an ass augment job.

Nice paint job.

Surprisingly accurate physical rendition of the artwork.

Please confirm me for both kit recasts in the following quantities:

VB-6: 3

VF-4: 2

And yes I realize both prices are quotes and therefore approximations only.

Once again thanks for all the help.

A 'Count me in' thread, as you put it, sounds good to me. Just don't add the D'Stance to it. He doesn't have one

Hopefully we can find one of those someday as well and spread the love.

But I'm not holding my breath.

So what kind of loose timeframe are we looking at here?

And when would we need to cough up da' change?

My thoughts on this as follows.

Payment sequence:

Step 1: Final price for Kit:A and Kit:B are announced.

Step 2: All of those on the list send in 20% of their final order cost to confirm the order and defray start up expenses, also to allow the Consortium's membership to save up the capital to pay for the requested product.

Step 3: The first run of production is achieved so that each member on the list has

one of each of the ordered items (as was requested).

At this point all interested parties will send in no less than the remaining 80% of the cost for the first wave of items ordered.

This insures all interested parties receive a minimum of one of each kit requested, this staggering of distribution also insures against mishap and time for the manufacturing parties to rest and refresh supplies and have more accessable capital to produce.

This also allows the buying membership more time to generate and/or allocate capital for the next wave of production.

Lastly this also allows the membership to request additional units beyond initial orders as capital becomes available.

Step 4: Each successive wave is produced until the manufacturing parties wish to end the venture or interest has waned to the point of practical termination of the venture.

Just a thought.

Just to add a observation.

The "Mini Missiles" int FM arm units have the same diameter as the MM's

in the UUM-7 15-tube micro-missile pod x 1 (Bifors HMM-01 micro-missiles).

I always assumed that was what they were.

The "Crasher Grenades" were the forearm mounted munitions on the GBP armor system, not the Fast Pack.

Yes I am aware of assumptions and there dangerous tendencies

I am contemplating a Kitbash of some FP forearms(1/48) and replacing the Micro Missiles in each unit with some left over shoulder guns from a Gundam Wing Zero. (Not custom) and adding a slide-in P90 clip like false magazine detail under the barrel assembly of each. Or maybe a combat knife sheath (with knife of course). These mods could be made without making them permanent the way the 1/48's forearm pods are constructed.

>>Has a kitbash daydream.

I'm looking for the so and so is the recaster and will be starting x-date.  What the heck is taking so long?

Uhm Dude.

This thread started only nine days ago, please just take deep breathes and try to calm down. We can squeal like fangirls when the kits are in our hands (I actually may...).

So when can we start "The Official Count Me In" thread?

Basically a thread where the lists of buyers are posted with the

limitation that all posts can only be requests to be added to the

list(s).

BTW; put me down for 2 VB-6's and 2 VF-4's

Thanks.

I did some comparrisons and measurements and even at 1/100 the IHP VB-6 is at least 10 inches tall in battroid.

Let me repeat that:

The IHP VB-6 is at least 10 inches tall in battroid.

And that is without the cannon barrels.

It will be @ 12 inches from nose to thrusters in bomber mode.(+)

This going to be F&^%$% Sweet!

(+)(( The Konig is 29.78 m. long in bomber mode. At 1/100

that is 29.78 cm. / 2.5 = 11.912 inches. And I guarantee that 12

inches of VB-6 will satisfy all my VB-6 needs. ))

At least the hooks hang real low, and if the cable is held high...

What the hell an I saying? twin hooks pretty much means broken plane if not

broken pilot.

Landing in gerwalk sounds good.

After seeing that pic it sound real good.

We send him one of the recasts in the box designed by us MW folks with a list of people (By login) saying thanks, printed out and folded up inside the box.

Just a thought.

Considering most of us would gladly pay 3-4 hundred for one the approximate $250 price tag ain't scaring me off a bit.

I was talking with other MW members and we hope you can use colored resin, like dark grey or dark OD green, it would make paint and maintennence a lot easier. Dark grey would probably work best for a base color since most of us will have to primer it anyways. IIRC the old thread to order from IHP said they were going to try to make them for us in OD like in the picture of the mistransformed one at WF.

Just a thought.

Thanks for even considering tackling this project, I imagine you are going to be a very busy person soon.

Still want 2 "Konigs" and one VF-4

DH:

So basically "Ovetechnology saves the day again.

IM/MJ81:

It always struck me that these componenets just exist because all the other

'Variable fighters have them. Looking at my 1/72 figures (regular and FP) and my model kit (1/72 jet-mode only) the design has much more room to mount extras nearly everywhere except where they are designed to fit. The underside plates cause landing concerns (IMO) you don't want a "Low Rider" Yf-21 when trying to land. As for the arm pods .. Shrug well they are there but that's about it.

Most of what these components accomplish could have mounted in a attachments in a more even and visually striking manner like a low trapezoidal block to mount on the outer surfaces of the engine/leg covers (The back pack for battroid) or between them if the middle of the dorsal area is not occupied by a S-Fold generator.

They just seem "There", I don't find them very dynamic looking. Not at all like the VF-1.. series fastpacks and boosters. And the YF-21/22 is such a dynamic and aggressive look variable unit especially in fighter mode. Still looks like a line-backer with ballerina ankles in Battroid mode though.

I'll start this off with my two questions.

VF-19:

My big question about the design was, how can it have the required "Stealth Profile" for the Macross era and still have FSW (Forward Swept Wings).

YF-21/22:

What do the 'Fastpacks' do for these craft?

Dig in

((Referring to the CGI Pics above.))

Works for me!

Yep that's the color scheme I was talking about for the first model.

Those images are gorgeous, they from the video game?

As for the second color scheme I want to use:

http://store6.yimg.com/I/littlethingsmeanalot_1776_4028856

I've loved this color scheme since the original 1/144 kit came out.

If this project succeeds to my wishes I will have two.

I will describe the paint schemes I have planned for each:

#1. Exactly like the original. Olive drab with the tan shoulder bands

#2. Much like the Low Vis, think like the Zeta C+ all greys and royal blues.

Heh, if they are recast using the same grey resin as the above pictures painting the second one will insultingly easy.

Remember this:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=4251

Hell yeah! Count me in.

Count me in for two.

The VF-4G I'm all about as well.

As for ethics.. I'll have my VB-6 to comfort me in my more vulnerable

guilt ridden moments, possibly two.

Dr. Clay

Would you please just drop it.

You are not even beginning to add

considerate nor conducive dialog to

this discussion.

Put simple; that is enough.

If you do not wish to purchase

"Sweat shop assembled models"

then don't, vote with your dollar.

quit bogging down this thread

with pointless ranting.

The hands are completely bendable, since every finger segment is made with one of those new clicky joints. The arms also rotate in four ways, thanks to a complex gearing mechanism. The arms basically have the same posability as the 1/48th, except they're too heavy to pose much.

I suggest you take a look at this guys joint design techniques.

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Klaupacius/Le...ndam%20Tech%201

Form here:

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Klaupacius/Le...l#Dark%20Gundam

Hope it helps.

I remember on the old board there was some 'buzz' about

recasting the pilot out of the Hasegawa kit mentioned above.

namely for use with the Yamato YF-21 figures.

Did anybody get around to doing this?

If so I am interested in getting a few.

If not, I am willing to lend the one out of my

model kit for recast if somebody wishes to do

it.

I'll also send the Laser/Antenna for

recasting if anyone is interested in that as well

(I replaced the fin on my Yammie a while

back with a hinged custom mod.).

Please just let me know.

Quick way to fix the head seam problem:

Take some white electrical tape and cut a piece

that will cover the front lower "face" of the head.

A slightly more difficult way is to unscrew the head

and scrub the face guard with a white cotton cloth

and after it dries apply a layer of matte clear coat

only over the seam. let it sit for a day or two and

paint the entire lower face plate with some gloss

white. should work like a charm.

Beat me to it.

On mine it is a godsend in Battloid with all the war-gear on.

At least Yamato realized the engineering issue before relasing

the FP parts. Rubber bands do not look good on the 1/48.

Sorry if this is in the wrong place..

I recently got a VF-1S (1/48) with FP from Valk Exchange

(Thanks Kevin!) The toy is surprisingly perfect structuraly,

for Yamato, I just have to adjust a shoulder assemby, which

I can manage myself. My issue is that the factory paint job

is noticably off on the yellow and black "Chevrons" on it's

chest plate, it's not immediately apparent but if you look at

the panel lines on the left side one can see that the black

and yellow areas are a bit narrower.

So I need a professional to strip and repaint said chest-plate.

I can do panel lines myself, I just need the "wedges" redone.

If anyone interested will PM me with an estimate and preferred

form of payment I will get in touch with them asap.

Thanks for any replies in advance.

Cn