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ae_productions

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Posts posted by ae_productions

  1. I had two suggestions, but it was only because the other pictures weren't loading.

    That was:

    1) Order for different fighters (1S, 1J, 1A and maybe even a 1D). But I saw you did that when the other pictures loaded.

    2) Cocpit. Again, this was resolved once the slow pictures (It's more like MY slow internet) materialized. :)

    Question. Is the canopy on the final going to be "clear" or painted plastic? And does the canopy close with the pilot still in the cockpit or does the pilot have to be removed from the cockpit? If the pilot remains in the cockpit, then a clear canopy might add a lot of feel to this toy. If the pilot has to be removed, then a clear cockpit would be awesome, but a painted canopy would work just as well.

    The stand is a great touch too.

    Size wise, are these going to be about 3 - 4 inches long?

    They'd be a great compliment to a display.

    I would buy several of these, depending which Valks you'd make.

    They look fantastic. Great work, as always!

  2. I love the whiny posts of speculators bemoaning the loss of value of their precious toys.

    pro-hint, if toys are your retirement fund, you fail.

    For me, they are not retirement. You'll have to pry my Valks from my dead fingers. :lol::D

    But getting a hold of some of these toys or being forced to get them on the secondary markets suck.

    Damn you Japanese Web exclusives!

  3. A recast is exactly that: a re-cast of an existing kit, using that kit as a master for the mold.

    They can morally be a gray area. Some people say no way to any recast. For some older, long out of production kits, a recast is the only chance you'll have to get and build one.

    My personal view is if it's a current kit, or popular enough to still be around- get the original.

    Very old kit, long out of production, recast is OK.

    You have to be careful in where you get a recast, too. Some places do real high quality work, others do total crap work.

    I myself have a recast of the VF-2 SS Valkyrie II, but I also managed to grab originals of a Musashiya VF-4, and a Club M Queadlun-Rau.

    Thanks man. You have all been very, very helpful.

    I think I'm going to get the 1/144. It's probably the closest we'll get to a 1/60 scale Monster. (Can you imagine the damn size of a 1/60)? It'll cost more than a car!

    Other question.

    Do you paint first before putting the parts together? Or put the parts together in sections and then paint?

    Thanks again for all the help!

  4. Torn! 1a or 1j. Got the 1S kit and used both shoulders for replacing on my hikky 1J/super combo I bought half price from hlj.com.

    I think ... no, still not sure. Most of all I want the photo etch parts.

    I Just checked my new super 1J...

    Yup. Cracked Shoulders. D'Oh! Maybe I should pick up a few extra of these kits when they get released.

  5. Man, I really wished that I had purchased that set, kicking myself now :( the 1/60 GBP has non-removable missile though right? not like the 1/48 GBP.

    Me too.

    I missed out on a lot of the 1/60's thinking I had more time to buy them, or they'd get reissued (M & M) but never did...

    This GBP is just pure awesome.

    Makes me sad I missed this one too!

    Thanks for the pics!

  6. Hi, yes I agree with Exo is better to have a grey color for painting than bright white or off-white for real world schemes. thats why I have decided not to paint my unassembled kit. here is another pic I took that can show better that bright white next to tthe off-white color.

    Thanks for the comparisons.

    I just started collecting the 1/60's a few months back, and only have 2. Both are the 1D, so there's no way to really color compare them. (One is Blue, the other is tan-ish).

    Your color photos helped a lot. Thanks for taking the time to share.

    These unpainted kits are pretty exciting. It's perfect to customize.

  7. Seeing you are new to modelling you might want to consider getting the smaller 1/200 kit. Not only is it smaller but also since it was just recently re-issued, you will not have to pay big bucks for it!

    I see shops selling them for like US$50-60, which is a steal consider how the original versions traded hands for like US$100-150 just a few years ago!

    Thanks for the heads up! I saw a few of the 1/200's for CHEAP. I think you're right, as a new modeler, this may be the way to go.

    I just LOVE the Monster. I don't know why. But it just reeks of awesome.

    I think I'm going to try the 1/200 for practice.

    Then, maybe I'll move on to the resin 1/144.

    Has anyone worked with Resin? Do I need special paints?

    And lastly, can anyone recommend a mid ranged (price wise) airbrush system that just works well for you?

    Thanks in advance. You guys ROCK!

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