armentage Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 So I'm still putting together my VF2-SS Bandai (Practice kit before I try my hand with my precious Hasegawa's). I've pained it with a mix of Tamiya & Polly-S paints, and airbrushed it with a coat of future. I'm going give it an oil wash (as soon as I pick up some oil paint/thinner), and then plan to seal it using Krylon Matte Finish (#1311) Any one have any info/opinons on how the Krylon will interact with the Future or the wash? For the VF2-SS's fast-pack, I made a big mistake - I used black Polly-S acrylic thinned to 1:10 with Polly-S airbrush thinner to do a wash. The results were pretty good, except the thinner seems to have actuall washed away some of my blue undercoat, right through the Future coat. I've managed to salvage things by carefully brushing on some new paint, but I'm pretty upset that it happened at all. I'm hoping to aviod a repeat with the Krylon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWR MKII Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 I wouldnt use the Krylon it will cause the paint to peel and wrinkle. Use polly S or Testors acryl clear flat if you use anything. Its safer that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laugh7887 Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 (edited) I wouldnt use the Krylon it will cause the paint to peel and wrinkle. Use polly S or Testors acryl clear flat if you use anything. Its safer that way. Is Testors acryl clear flat a good choice of protecting the undercoat paint job ? i'm looking for a strong coat that is flat and not so easily chiped away. Since I've been having some real trouble with Model Master's Lacquers clear coat , they tends to caused the paints to wrinkle / splint apart and other horrible mess. I used Model Master's Lacquers clear coat Semi-gloss based on the info by wm cheng's step by step which shows Lacquer clear coat can withstand windex wash and oather sorts of stuffs , but non of that is true in my case . I'm greatful for any suggestsion. Edited April 28, 2005 by laugh7887 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BinaryFalcon Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Since I've been having some real trouble with Model Master's Lacquers clear coat , they tends to caused the paints to wrinkle / splint apart and other horrible mess. Much of that is likely because of the time frame in which you are overcoating the previous layer. If you've ever wondered why you often see something to the effect of "additional coats should be applied within 2 hours or after 3 days", it's related to this. As paints dry they release the volatile thinners that are used to make them workable. There's a definite window in which recoating these paints, especially with different "based" paints will cause problems. Chances are if you were to paint the base coat and then wait maybe a week or 2 (or more) you could overcoat with just about anything you like without any issues. Do it within a few hours or days though, and you're likely to have trouble. IIRC, In general, you never want to put something "fast drying" over something "slow drying" unless you allow for plenty of time (I'd wait at least a week) for all the volatile materials from the "slow drying" undercoat to escape as the paint fully cures. It's the volatile chemicals in the slow drying layer pushing through the fast drying overcoat that tend to cause the cracking and wrinkles/bubbling that you get. A great example was a Saturn V model I was building many years ago. I was using Krylon for the overall paint scheme, with bits of Testors Silver thrown in for the small areas that needed it. Fortunately I discovered the problem prior to applying the paint to the model, but overlaying Krylon on the Testors silver (lacquer over oil) almost immediately caused a rather nasty wrinkling and bubbling reaction. Putting the Testors silver over the Krylon (oil over lacquer) was fine, however. When in doubt, do a test piece. Get some scrap of something (even cardboard) and lay down the paint just as you intend to on the model and see what happens. If it comes out fine on the test article, you'll probably be fine with the model as well. Or you can just go slow and wait a few weeks between each coat. Check the labels of the products you are using. Most will list a "fully cured" time. As long as you allow for that (plus a bit, just to be safe, IMO), you'll generally be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWR MKII Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 Acryls make good topcoats for static models. If its a variable kit go with something stronger.I use Ronseal clear matt varnish on my tougher subjects like the tanks and they dont chip unless i want them to. Its a acrylic varnish basically its the testors/ PollyS stuff in a more concentrated form. Thins out with water or alcohol and airbrushes fine. Usually anything out of a spray can will eat the underlying paint so i try to avoid them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armentage Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 So Krylon for a Variable that has been sitting for several days would be a good idea? For the extra-strength of it's non-acrylic composition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BinaryFalcon Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 So Krylon for a Variable that has been sitting for several days would be a good idea? For the extra-strength of it's non-acrylic composition? I'd probably do it, although I'd be more inclined to give it a full week just to be safe. It's rare that I clearcoat any model less than a week after finishing it because I like to be certain that the paint and decals have cured and are good to go before I seal everything up. But again, test it on some scrap first if you're unsure. It's the only way you can be certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laugh7887 Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 (edited) Wow , thanks for all the tips ! , now paint cure time has a profound meaning in my mind I used to think that 24~48 hours was enough for Tamiya acryl paints to cure completely . i will go ahead a try a 1 week paint cure and see if it can sustain the Model Master's Lacquer clear coat. Right now i'm using future as it is less intrusive but the coat is too glossy and easily chiped away if i dont handle it carefully ( unless with multiple times of coating which is bad for it removes the detail) . I also had some War Hammer varnish which was non intrusive and flat but it will change the tone of the color and very thick which is bad. Anyway , i hope 1 week paint cure will prevent the Modle Master Lacquer from eating the paint jobs . Wish me luck ! P.S. i will try this on a test subject first ofcourse Edited April 28, 2005 by laugh7887 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armentage Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 So I did the Krylon over Future, and I'm sad to say that the result was not what I had hoped for. The paint didn't krinkle or smear, but there are weird, barely visible sploches that look like puddles of oil floating on water. I don't have a good digital camera at the moment so I can't take a picture. I think from now on I'm going to stick to Tamiya/Testors products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.