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  • Location
    Sandiego USA
  • Interests
    er ....... SF3D ( dont have guts to do it ) ... 1/700 water line war ships , scale armor , Miyazaki's models , and now i'm getting into Air plane and Mechs

laugh7887's Achievements

Cannon Fodder

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  1. oh yeah bro ! Fedex , UPS , USPS , i'm only missing DHL , please send me some if anyone has it
  2. Thank you guys for all your input , i will take your advice and start building another spray booth that is not so out of joint as this one . The Ghetto spray booth is only for the purpose of testing if the fan is powerful enough to suck air in this settup. Anyway , thank you all.
  3. I haven't conduct a test on that yet , i will place a piece of white paper on the exist to test that out shortly . Printing..
  4. Well , with more duck tape , i will connect it to a ventilation pipe and straight out the door. That part of the project will be done shortly and will be posted . Printing ....
  5. Ok ..... i believe all of us using airbrush need a spray booths , but they aren't that cheap and easy to build. so if you are strap on cash and have no idea how to build one with wood, i got a quick solution for you guys . Being to the ghetto before ? seen those homeless contruct their housing under a few seconds ? we will applied the same technology with our spray booth . Here is wat you need : 1. vantilation fan made by SMC from home deopt for $19.99 ( sorry i photographed the wrong side with spanish ) 2. some air filter from homdepot without the plastic frame around it for $4.99 3. some card board free 4. row of duck tap $4.99 ( yes ... duck tape is the the break through technology ) and the photo pretty much explain it self ... Ghetto for life ! THis is the back ventilation area which can be duck tape with an exiting pipe which channel air out . As you can see here , the spray booth hual paints !! OMG ! you can even adjus the card board to watever postition you feel most confortable ! all you need is a few more pieces of card board and a few more duck tape here and there . In conclustion , although the spraybooth does not have aesthetic touch , it sure meet my need to suck those harmful vapor out of my way !
  6. Indeed i agree with you that technique plays a large part of the whole process . For a beginer, One should never go dig into their bank for a $100+ airbrush and execpt it will return it's value on a modle paint job. $100 airbrush is for those who have quite a bid of experience with coloring models already. I my self started painting models through brushes and sponges for years before i feel unsatisfied with the limitation of the just sponges and brushes can achieve. For an experienced modeler, I feel that it is also very important to understand that with better equipment , it saves time ,frustration and money in spraying . First , a good airbrush can help one's technique to acheive the desirable look under less time which saves frustration on technical issue and gives more time to deal with the asthetic issue. A good air brush + air compressor can stick with the user forever ( almost ), which saves you money if you question can cheap airbrush stay with users for 10 years under constant use ? Personally i had a Iwata HP-CP for 2 years and it's super easy to clean under seconds. Through 2~3 times of 2ml windex , i can let it dry or swap color immeditately. The airbrush was under quite heavy use for i put oil base / water based and some varnishes in it for countless hours but it never stop functioning nor deteriate. These is just some of my thoughts
  7. Wow , thanks for all the tips ! , now paint cure time has a profound meaning in my mind I used to think that 24~48 hours was enough for Tamiya acryl paints to cure completely . i will go ahead a try a 1 week paint cure and see if it can sustain the Model Master's Lacquer clear coat. Right now i'm using future as it is less intrusive but the coat is too glossy and easily chiped away if i dont handle it carefully ( unless with multiple times of coating which is bad for it removes the detail) . I also had some War Hammer varnish which was non intrusive and flat but it will change the tone of the color and very thick which is bad. Anyway , i hope 1 week paint cure will prevent the Modle Master Lacquer from eating the paint jobs . Wish me luck ! P.S. i will try this on a test subject first ofcourse
  8. Is Testors acryl clear flat a good choice of protecting the undercoat paint job ? i'm looking for a strong coat that is flat and not so easily chiped away. Since I've been having some real trouble with Model Master's Lacquers clear coat , they tends to caused the paints to wrinkle / splint apart and other horrible mess. I used Model Master's Lacquers clear coat Semi-gloss based on the info by wm cheng's step by step which shows Lacquer clear coat can withstand windex wash and oather sorts of stuffs , but non of that is true in my case . I'm greatful for any suggestsion.
  9. Yeah , definately need those little plastic jars ! I used to have 10 of them for my illustration classes to keep paints fresh . now i use these jars to keep diluted Tamiya paints like Red , yellow , white , black , some of the major color. P.S sorry , my work table looks like a mess !
  10. Thank you for your imput wm cheng & bhop I guess my first air brush fluid nozzle was too thick , no matter what i tried , distance , air pressure , thin down paints , it's always very inconsistant . Now i finally got an HP-C with a fine nozzle , guess i cant blame on my airbrush but to start working on my skill .
  11. When looking for a Air brush i would recommand looking for : fluid nozzle opening : usually 0.2 to 0.3mm can give you very fine line hairline : 1" (hairline to 25mm) Gravity feed cup : this helps when cleaning , quick for switching paints . Double actioin : offer more control over paint flow Hope this helps
  12. I just realized dixieArt sell the " HP-C Pre-Set Adjustable Handles "( for adjusting to the perfect working spray width. It limits the amount of needle travel allowing for greater control of the airbrush) seperately for 26 bucks ! ..... This is so nice , one can purchase the HP -C under 100 bucks and pay 26 extra to get a preset handler instead for paying 160 for HP C+ which is basically samething as HP-C with preset handler .
  13. Really ? i donno , $60 bucks is enough to buy my self another new airbursh , may i know what kinda frustration will i get without the needle adjustment nob ? Thanx !! I recommend the hp_c also. I think it paints as wide as 3 inches, which is more than enough for scale modeling. I rather have the ability to paint fine line than really large area at one time. DixieArts.com would probably have one of the best prices around, UPS ground shipping was included last time I bought from them. They are out of New Orleans, and I have recieved packages from them in two business days. You don't have to buy a expensive one, just be sure what you end up getting is dual action. Cool ! Thank you for your input Dixel art is a great place to purchase airbrush , ( i purchase my IWATA HP-CR there ) . But this is weird , i just found out that HP-C is sold for 90 bucks in this KFI Nail & Beauty Supplies website ,....( http://www.kfibeautysupplies.com/viewitem....PID=100&VID=171 ) way much lower than regular price ( which is around 150 bucks ), it's a awsome deal !
  14. Really ? i donno , $60 bucks is enough to buy my self another new airbursh , may i know what kinda frustration will i get without the needle adjustment nob ? Thanx !!
  15. Thank you all , now i see what its uses are. i guess when one has bad finger control and need a consistent thin line, the adjustment knob comes in pretty handy , however the down size is it cost 60 bucks more !?
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