Myersjessee

Lol!!!

Global: Where's my Zentradi Detector, Dr. Jenius?

Max: Well...I'm working on it, but...

Milia (suddenly appears on Max's lap, stroking his ear): He doesn't believe you, Max...what are you going to do now?

Max: Run away!

(Global looks at Max strangely.)

Max: Err, I mean, it's a runaway success...everything's worked out astonishingly well...I just need one more thing, and that's...

Milia: A reaction warhead.

Max: A reaction warhead. (He pauses.) Wait, what?

So, I was able to talk to Gundamhead and WM Cheng today and get a little more information. Gundamhead and WM have both built the kit and both experienced some saggaing. Gundam's display is vertical (base flat, arm pointing up 90 degrees) and his issue is a small bend in the actual clamp mechanism. This was not reinforced when I cast it...and I dont believe it is now. WM Chengs issue is more serious. He said he would post pictures, but his is off by an inch or more. His issue is compounded is the arm is extending out from the wall holding all the weight of the Valk. I'd love to see the pictures for more ideas, but I wanted to post this so anyone who gets a kit, or already has one is aware. Valkyries thicker rod idea may help...but based on what WM said it still may be a problem over the long term. WM's is a few years old now, and he said it has happened slowly over time. I think the combination of the length of the arm and the weight of the valk will just be something to be careful of.

My first thoughts for those building a kit are:

1 - Consider display position. The Arm up at 90 degrees will probably be less problematic. Adding some brass pins during build would probably make sense as well

2 - Keep your Valk as light as possible

3 - Clear bracing. I was thinking, if I build mine like WM I may add a clear acrylic rod at a 45 degree between the valk and the base. It stinks to have to do, but it may go a long way. Other bracing ideas could be a small piece of fishing line going from the valk at a 45 degree above the base.

I'm sure you all have many better ideas then I...what do you think?

Finally, as for fixing existing issues...any ideas for WM? My best bet would be to heat the resin and try to bend it back, but I honestly dont know that the paint would survive it. Anyone have a better thought here for WM?

I wasn't aware that Gundam sold the masters, but that sounds likely. The molds I have are the ones I made when I was making the kit. The kit was made from the original WF kit (with larger rods then that one used) I got the kit from WF and was soorly disapointed in the detail. Gundamhead suggested he could take it and turn it into something special...which he did. I cast it for him, he packed and sold them.

Now...if he's sold the rights to the kits then we really couldn't go by his approval to have me pass on the molds to someone...so I guess the right person to start with is him. He's lurking around somewhere so maybe he will chime in.

I'm curious...regarding the sagging...anyone have pictures? I'm looking at the brass rods I used and I'd be suprised if they couldn't hold a Valk. (again, they are larger then the WF ones). I'd love to see where they are bending and chew on how to fix it. (also, make sure they are in fact my castings. I think Gundamhead passed on casting responsibilities to someone else after I stopped...but that could be misinformation. )

Oh oh...how about they do like the first Star Trek franchise did and just have the same characters come back older, slower and fatter?!?!

Okay...so here is my idea.

Galactica, the original series took a horrible race threatening event and made it into a fun campy sitcom. Galactica reinvisioned was dark, a lot more realistic, and a lot more representative of a race on the edge of extinction.

I'd love to see Macross rebooted in a similar fashion. Scenario...world is at war destroying itself...then attacked by giant aliens with incredible Technology. We have essentially one chance to keep them from destroying us...we dont understand them. I think it could make for an excellent differnt darker view.

Oh, and also stealing from Galactica, I want to see ships in space fight much more like ships can fight in space. 180's on a dime...overuse of vectoring thrusters big time please.

As mentioned, I don't know the history of the resin kit I had, it was probably a recast - Platz is the only game in town for Yukikaze as far as I know. The cockpit 'tub' was there, I just put the bits and pieces in it...

I have an original and it matches your description. Photo etch...etc...(not sure how good my decals are...have not tried them) The cockpit on the body is opened up, but it simply as no detail. The canopy is a solid piece of resin with two destinct plugs that will fit into the two wholes where the pilots should go. I've always intended to simply attempt to vac-form a new canopy for it and then detail the existing holes.

Does that sound similar to yours Petar...or was your canopy already vac-formed and your cockpit detailed?

ugh... don't you hate it when the exacto slips???

haha... it's just sculpey...

you'd think you could share some...

(wait for it)

"Pointers"!

Nyuck nyuck nyuck!

If that's the case, download the fansubs instead of buying the boots. It's free (so no money goes to pirates) and the subs will be higher-quality.

Good point! Thanks.

Crapola! Thanks all...I appreciate the knowledge. I guess, as you say, it's obvious, but I got lured in by the "it's authentic" and nice packaging. Oh well...I dont think I'm up for spending $600 for the series without having seen it, so as much as I dislike bootlegs I guess I need to support the bootleg market at least until I've seen the series. If it's all that and a bag of chips I might need to splurg for the authentic blue ray versions.

Again, thanks for the 411.

I think it's second only to Macross Plus. As for 13-year-old? Maybe. You'll know by the 1st ep if you think it's ok.

Sounds good...Ill screen it. Mac+ was always my favorite.

Man.

You will need to make some more for us, or let someone borrow the molds

My casting days (at least in any quantity) are done for a while. I'm truly sorry, I'd love to help...but I honestly don't have the time anymore. (I havent touched my two bench cast area literally since I packed these molds up which had to be 2005)

I posted this cause I was stunned the molds still worked. I also wouldn't want to go behind Gundamheads back. I made a deal with him to cast these for him to sell, and I wouldn't want to be seeming to be cutting him out.

All that said...if someone wants to cast them and wants my molds please contact Gundamhead. If you can work a deal with him I'd be happy to provide my molds, and all the information you will need on how to work them. At least 1 is designed for Vacuum casting, and you'd need a nice size pressure tank for the others, but we can talk about that. I dont know how many kits they will produce (again, I'm shocked they didn't fall apart after this long...but the rubber seems good...if you keep them well powdered you might get 10 to 20 kits out of them.

Let me know if your interested and Ill be happy to try and help broker a deal with Gundamhead.

Cheers all.

One more noob question. (and again, thank you as well as sorry to bother you)

So...I'm going to order the DVD's. I want to make sure I buy originals as opposed to bootlegs. I'm seeing lots of auctions...looking at three of them (below) I'm wondering why the different boxart. Are there different versions? Which should I buy (or does it matter?)

Thanks for the advice'

1-25 with "end" and CD. (whats end? )

http://cgi.ebay.com/DVD-Macross-Frontier-V...=item2c5295871c

another 1-25 end different art

http://cgi.ebay.com/Macross-Frontier-Chapt...=item2304a683dc

3rd 1-25 end

http://cgi.ebay.com/MACROSS-FRONTIER-1-25-...=item19b933bbab

Thanks in advance folks!

This cracked me up:

Cleaning up my model area and organizing I realized I never made myself a launch arm. With the probably 50 or more kits I made, I forgot myself. I found an "extra pieces" box and had most things, but was missing the main arm pieces. So, scrounging around I found the molds (2+ years old) and some resin (2+ years old) I said, "There is no chance this is going to work" but crossing my fingers hooked up the vacuum pump and compressors...stirred up the resin real nice and took a crack at it. I was stunned...first try...nice clean castings. It's a late christmas miracle!

Yea! Now I have a kit too!

Interesting. Sounds like I need to get better at planning and cleaning. I'm spoiled with the siphon badge paint swap and found gravity to be cumbersome, but everyone I hear from seems to think I have it reversed. Sounds like I need more practice and a better process. Thank you all for the thoughts.

Good information...thank you both. I just spent a couple hours reading about Iwata's. I noticed there was a side feed HP-SB that allows for a gravity cup and a siphon cup...I'm a little partial to siphon as I like being able to paint a few colors quickly (paint...blow thinner through..switch cups, paint)...but you make good points that a high percent of the time gravity will be better. Is side a reasonable middle ground for me to have a little of both, or is it just gonna suck?

Your rush job > My slow job! Nice work!

Looks nice!

Last 2 pix.

That takes care of the 1/2500 version, now I'll be turning my focus to the 1/5000 ship. Once that's done, I'm on a short vacation and then planning for the Cat's Eye

Cats Eye?!?! oO

This is great! Thank you! Guess I'm off to buy the dvds!

Hiya Jesse!

I have a few guns myself: Iwata RG-2, Iwata HP-C, Iwata HP-BC, Iwata Eclipse, and even an old Badger dual-action. If you want something with multi-use capability, I would highly recommend the Iwata HP-C or whatever the newest variant of that particular airbrush is. Loads easier to clean than a suction-fed unit, plus it's a real workhorse: easy to maintain, reliable, and capable of very fine work.

Thanks John! In your answer you actually raised another question I've been wondering about. You mention the C is easier to clean then suction feed. Currently with my Badger it's a bottom feed suction system. I have about 2-dozen glass paint jars that I premix and two caps with the suction insert...so when I'm painting I simply attach one of the tube-caps to a paint glass....paint...then spray some thinner through and move onto the next color. The gravity feed systems seem to me like I'd be constantly cleaning the attached cup and constantly dumping paint. I'm sure I'm missing something though...how do you handle that?

So...I have a simple single action badger airbrush...and I love it. I'm sure I could be doing a lot more..but it serves it's purpose. However, as I get into smaller and smaller scale items I'd like to have a more precise tool, and I was wondering what everyone else uses or would recomend. I was looking at some of the Iwata's..which I know are nice, but I want to balance quality of the tool with price of parts. I dont want to end up with a pricey paperweight that I can't maintain due to outrageous parts costs.

So...whatcha got...whatcha use?!?

Cheers!

So...I went into a spider hole for a couple years and now I'm trying to catch up. I'm reading about Macross Frontier and I'd love to hear all your reviews. Is it good? Great? Appropriate for a 13 year old? (my son?) Should I get it...and if so what version?

Thanks a billion and sorry to bother you all!

Cheers

Very nice!

The X-Wing will be nice, I'll be all smiles for the RAPTOR!! Speaking of BSG, those new MKII Vipers should be out very soon. Can't imagine you won't get a few of those as well!

My F+M is on the way right now with clear parts and gear....