cool8or

So, based in your experience, Samuel Decals works and looks better than the originals from Bandai?

I agree with that. Sadly, before hasegawa announces their VF-25 project, I had been started the building of my RVF-25 in fighter mode. But what the hel! Welcome Hasegawa!

Super or armored versions wouldn't have the shutters either, since the intakes are covered up by the hip pieces.

Probably just included them to let you make the intakes in the closed position if you want to.

You're right!:

If I buy a model kit is for paint it and make it beautiful and admire it in my shelf. if I want to play with, I buy a toy.

But anyway, i can understand that there are people who likes these Bandai kits... But the decals?? My God, I can make my own decals in my inkjet printer, and the quality wil be far far better than the ^}><]>~}*~]}*££~^+!! Decals from Bandai. Sincerely, I never have seen before such a worst decal in the market. Damn it!!!

Thank you guys. Good ideas and advices have been mentioned in this thread. To start, I'll follow Cap's advice, I'll go to the Automotive Paint Store and I'll buy a Primer from them. I have a lot of money invested in these paints so I have to give it a chance.

Thank you again!

God hear you!!

Mmhm... That could explain it... And could the paint AND the thinner cause the same effect... I'll make some experiments.

This is a very tricky problem. At the beginning of buildind, I test the adherence of Mr Surfacer and everything is perfect, and I trust that all is OK. Even if I try to reproduce the problem, I never get it. But, after several weeks, or months, after you paint the base color, postshading, and masking to apply the secondary colors, is when the disaster occurs: not in several pieces, only in just one or two. . This time, was more frustrating, because I had the kit ready, with decals, flat coating, and the only work left was a metal finish section. I left this work to the end because the metal colors looks better with their original shine, and, talking about this specific case, masking before the flat coat would be more dificult.

Mike, I never have cleaned plastic kits. Now I was considering to do it, so thank you for your advise.

HWR, I do exactly what you do. As I said before, fortunately I can fix the disaster and it looks like never happened.

Obviosly, this problem don't happen with water based or enamel paints, but sadly adherence is not a synonymous of resistance. As you already know, a couple times per year I go to modeling or collector exhibitions, so I really need that my kits to be resistant to friction. In this aspect, enamel and water based paints really sucks.

Hi guys. In the last years, I have been painting with automotive laquer paints, bought in a automotive paint store, and used also the regular thinner (called "acrylic" but obviously is not water based) bought in the hardware store.

As you know, I been having some adherence problems in some resin kits, and I though that the problem was the resin itself. But yesterday I was finishing a Hasegawa plastic model , and when I retire some masking tape (Tamiya), some paint take off. It was very frustating, due the valk was almost finish.

I use Mr Surfacer as primer, but when this happens it's also removed by masking tape, so when this happens no paint is left, just the plastic. Fortunately, this happened to me so much that right now I'm an expert solutioning these issues, and you can't see it in the final result.

I have several Hase kits painted with this same paints and nothing happened in the past, so I don't know what happened this time... May be is the brand of the thinner (not always I find the same brand). If I can't identify the cause, I' m thinking in discontinue the use of this paints an only use Mr. Color paints. Fortunately, I found a web site that have the complete catalogue of this paints: www.sealmodel.com

But, in case that I discontinue the use of my automotive paints, I wondering about the diference between the regular thinner, bought in the hardware store, and the Mr. Color thinner... Do you think that deserves to pay more, and wait 3 months (delivery time for surface shipping) to have this thinner? May be it's almost the same product, I don't know, that' why I'm asking.

In the worst scenario, I can use Mr. Color thinner only to thin the pain, and use regular thinner just to clean the airbrush and tools.

Any comment will be welcome.

Hey, wait a minute... You already have done the half of the sculpting! Looks great!

Just received from the mail man:

Is in my warehouse too!

Great! I preodered in HLJ, so I'll wait the notification. About the instructions, I miss the color chart guide...

I have a 1/5000 SDF-1 storm attack built, and I have to say that is HORRIBLE. So I bought a second Cruiser mode, to custom into a storm attack.

Wonderful! If only We could get these illustrations as posters...

So, this beauty will be available next week?

One of these days I'll pass my tears building my Yellow Submarine's kits...

Thanks !

Nothing to do with it, but do you have a link towards your superb 1/72 Miria's Queadluun Rau building ?

Sadly not, even in spanish... sorry.

Damn, god knows how I want that kit.

Here is:

The same but closer:

Interesting... I'll keep an eye over this...

But Exo, with a price of USD$2.000, obviously the demand will be very limited. This is more expensive than a Garage Kit!

I can' understand why Yamato did a so limited production of this. They could win a lot of money!

Great advances, please post more!

See? We already reach the 30 people goal. Cool!!

Sreichma, yes, it will be a 10.2 cms kit. If you think that is small, you should see my 1/72 invid kits...

Mike, can you post a picture aside your 1/72 Monster? I have the impression that Moscato's Glaug is a bit higher...

And congratulations, it looks trully impressive.